CW 2.0 (22 Viewers)

[seapotato]

I was right.

It was really ****ing annoying to fix.

Although having a welding helmet helped a bit

Discovered the "window belts" as the strips at top of the door are called change at 1980. Go from being felt and chrome to being a big chunk of rubber.

Rubber version is available everywhere. 76-80 version, not so much. So, I could see modifying the older door to fit new style belt. Difference is small 1/8" holes to mount, vs large slots.

Back to work Monday so I'll have some time in front of a computer to do a proper dig.

 

[seapotato]

Pretty much just the spot welds left now, which I'll save for another day.

These inner corners are a pain in the ass.

Gave the other door a light smear of epoxy and 410. Maybe 2 tablespoons, of which 90 % will get sanded off. I can live with that.

See if I can't find some window runs to order tomorrow.

 

[cruisedeisel]

Dont't forget drain holes.

 

[seapotato]

Dont't forget drain holes.

Haha, yeah I did think about those.

I think originally they were just bulges in the inner panel to make a gap...all that s*** is long gone on any door I've owned.
Being watertight isn't something any of my doors could ever be accused of



Managed to find all the door runs and felts on Amayama. Partsouq didn't quite have everything.

Decided it'd be easier (hopefully) to modify new door to fit old style felt belt than the other way around. We'll see...awkward spot to be drilling holes.

 

[bikersmurf]

Can you share the P/Ns or a link for those parts? I've got a pair of older doors that will need some of those parts. I'm hoping with a little luck that I'll be able to fix them this summer.

 

[seapotato]

Can you share the P/Ns or a link for those parts? I've got a pair of older doors that will need some of those parts. I'm hoping with a little luck that I'll be able to fix them this summer.

I will, but pretty much nothing crosses over to the flat vent window doors...

Current issue is shipping. The runs went from 25 to ship to 65 because they switched from EMS to ups because of the potential postal strike.
Still a fraction of what tpd wants for a run.


The other order from a different warehouse hasn't given me the option, so I'll need to contact them and see.

Thank-you Canada Post.

 

[seapotato]

Found my scribble.

This is 76 and up doors. As far as I can tell, only change at 1980 is the outer belt.

 

[seapotato]

Switched to DHL from EMS and only went up by 10 bucks, I can live with that. So now I wait for the slow boats.

Realized the drain I had planned wasn't going to work, so I did some factory ish style drains so Julian stops yelling at me.

Idea being the water drains below the door seal outside.

Would have been easier to stamp in beforehand, but life is hard when you're stupid.



Didn't feel like listening to my die grinder cleaning up those welds today so I did this instead.

I'm a bit sensitized to epoxy thanks to my old job, so this is always last step before getting the hell out of the shop.

I need to pick up some bodywork supplies. I have nothing for primer except this weld through s***. And remove the locks and handles. Maybe do some rekeying.

I didn't order door seals. I have a crapload of 60 doors, so I thought I'd check those and maybe some generic s*** that's available everywhere.
Spendy from MrT.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Hey. Do you have a 12V clock in either of your trucks? I found one and want to plug it in to see if it works. If it works I’ll see how to wire it. No idea why it has 5 wires

 

[seapotato]

Hey. Do you have a 12V clock in either of your trucks? I found one and want to plug it in to see if it works. If it works I’ll see how to wire it. No idea why it has 5 wires View attachment 3912763

No, I have a 24v version of that I've been meaning to reinstall if I can find the plug inside the dash.

It dims with the lights, and goes dark with the key off so I can see it having 4 wires. Not sure about the 5th...

 

[cruiserpilot]

I think two wires wrap together. I’ve got a 24V clock too. Had to swap housings to get this one to fit. I’m changing my dash panel to clean it up. Clock looks better than all the rear hatch switches I don’t use

 

[seapotato]

I think two wires wrap together. I’ve got a 24V clock too. Had to swap housings to get this one to fit. I’m changing my dash panel to clean it up. Clock looks better than all the rear hatch switches I don’t useView attachment 3912818

Yeah I have that big blank piece of plastic for a switch panel in my 60, I've been meaning to put the clock back in. Just haven't gotten around to it.

Driving to work in the dark waiting for a streetlight so I can check my watch is annoying



I'm fairly sure it's a 4 wire plug...but I'd have to look.

Makes sense tho. B+, keyed hot, dimmer wire that goes to stereo, ground.

 

[cruiserpilot]

The plug is 4 wires. I think the two run together for hot to keep the time. I’ve read up a bit on search but no one’s just produced a pic of a plug.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Yours is a 61? 24V? Oh and in that first pic if you count there are 5 wires burning the plug to the clock the two white/black are together

 

[seapotato]

Yours is a 61? 24V? Oh and in that first pic if you count there are 5 wires burning the plug to the clock the two white/black are together

Yeah 60 is 24v

The clock should install pretty much like a stereo. Hot to battery for memory, another to key to turn it on.

Dimmer is probably optional

 

[seapotato]

I'll see if I can find it tomorrow. My wiring harness is upside down, but I think I know roughly where the plug is.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Yeah 60 is 24v

The clock should install pretty much like a stereo. Hot to battery for memory, another to key to turn it on.

Dimmer is probably optional

Thanks, I just not confident enough to start powering up wires without thinking I'll wreck it.

 

[seapotato]

Kind of a good website ---> Cruiser Wiring - https://globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/wiringmainframe.htm

There's 60 schematics if you scroll down far enough.

Coolerman's Electrical Schematic and FSM File Retrieval

Looks like red to cigarette lighter ... always hot, I think ?

Green is the dimmer . It should work without this. Might just be bright at night.

Red black to radio, or something that is on with the ignition.

White is ground.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Thanks, I never found any of my wiring diagrams with clock. Mine are all early 60's 55 40.
I'll try that, thanks

 

[seapotato]

Thanks, I never found any of my wiring diagrams with clock. Mine are all early 60's 55 40.
I'll try that, thanks

Yeah that website is pretty great.



I think it should be pretty hard to hurt. All three are connected to 12v, sometimes all at once. ( other than the ground )

The dimmer can probably go to one of the dash lights that's nearby. They only work with the lights on I think.