CW 2.0 (4 Viewers)

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First time someone else drove the truck, the key went past start and got stuck. 🙄

Then Mel did it the next day... So ,I finally had an excuse to buy a cylinder with the glow function .

5 days from Japan. Not bad.


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Got some doors from @stevebradford a while back, thinking I'd make some half doors.

Now I'm thinking rather than chop up a semi half decent set of doors , I'd patch them up, then decide if I'm going to cut them.

My high tech door bottom presserator survived another set.

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Doors on my truck aren't great. Look ok on the outside but the inside bottoms are a bit fooked. I'll see if I can figure out something for patching those too.



Occurs to me I could damn near make a whole skin for a half door with this contraption... :hmm:
 
Dam your one talented dude!! I guess you have all that extra time that kids dont leach your blood and soul out of you. hahahah!
 
Got some doors from @stevebradford a while back, thinking I'd make some half doors.

Now I'm thinking rather than chop up a semi half decent set of doors , I'd patch them up, then decide if I'm going to cut them.

My high tech door bottom presserator survived another set.

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Doors on my truck aren't great. Look ok on the outside but the inside bottoms are a bit fooked. I'll see if I can figure out something for patching those too.



Occurs to me I could damn near make a whole skin for a half door with this contraption... :hmm:
I have to say that’s quite impressive. I’d agree that you’re not that far off build half doors from scratch.

Id be inclined to do something very similar… if my doors weren’t flat from the factory.
 
I was sorta thinking about this when I widened my press. Be nice if the ram slid side to side, but hopefully I'll upgrade that one day. I think I'd be able to get to all of it if I did a whole skin.

We'll see. Few things to do first...🤣
 
Towed the trailer for the first time, and now I have s*** to fix :lol:

Of course the trailer lights were only semi functional, despite working perfectly when testing and my boost gauge stopped working.

Limply twitches when it should be pointing straight up.

There's a metaphor there I think. :hmm:

Probably just the line going to it. My bet is a chafe or burn on the plastic tube.
 
Ha. Here I am blaming the boost gauge and apparently my waste gate actuator cracked its weld and is hanging loose. So waste gate is pretty much wide open.

Explains why the egts were a bit spicy coming back with the trailer 🤣
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Lol, it was clearly one of those tack together to test fit and I'd finish weld later things...buuuut I didn't. 🤣

If a tack held it for a couple years this should do it.

Been so long since I welded anything the battery was dead in my helmet. :doh:

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Bright side, gave me a look at my turbo seals. Weird having a clean intake lol

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Well, turbo issue fixed now. Only boosts to 7.5 so I probably changed the angle slightly.

Means I can keep this old gauge. Haven't been able to find anything else as simple.

With the trailer lights, it appears my hazard switch doesn't do anything in the truck. Betting that's the cause of it. Tomorrow tho. Thirsty work watching swmbo shovel 🍺🤣
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Well that was another easy one. Brake light fuse had popped. Apparently it's supposed to be a 20a fuse, and I had a 5 in there...not a problem until a trailer enters the conversation.

The hazards take their power from the brake light fuse as well, which is why they work with the key off, but turn signals don't.

Good to remember. I probably told myself that last time too.🤣



Anyone have a fuse box cover for a 78-ish fj40 so I don't have to always hunt for the correct fuse values?
 
Don’t feel bad. I spent money on 2 new taillights for the 74 until today I remembered
24V. Maybe they’ll last longer than 6 sec now.
 
Don’t feel bad. I spent money on 2 new taillights for the 74 until today I remembered
24V. Maybe they’ll last longer than 6 sec now.
Ha, I'd forget my ass if it didn't follow me around.
I'll be tattooing myself notes on my legs before too long ...

At least I don't have to burrow into my dash to get to the hazard switch. That dash area is guaranteed bleeding on a 40. 😒
 
Maybe if I had 100 years of doing nothing but 40 door bottoms, I'd get one perfectly flat.

Probably would jump off a tall building before the end of year 1 tho.

Anyways. Not perfect, not terrible. Considering the current cost of zero dollars , I can live with it.. :meh:

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I'll do a little more to it another day.

That's enough for now. Getting the stinkeye from swmbo on the lawnmower 🤣🤣🤣
 
Maybe if I had 100 years of doing nothing but 40 door bottoms, I'd get one perfectly flat.

Probably would jump off a tall building before the end of year 1 tho.

Anyways. Not perfect, not terrible. Considering the current cost of zero dollars , I can live with it.. :meh:

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I'll do a little more to it another day.

That's enough for now. Getting the stinkeye from swmbo on the lawnmower 🤣🤣🤣
Pretty impressive IMHO!
 
Pretty impressive IMHO!
I'm happier with the stamping panels portion than I am with the installation, but honestly I think this style of 40 doors might be the hardest fix to not warp on a cruiser.

Dead flat and the way they're made there's not even any tension to keep them from oil canning one way or another.

I still need to grind the welds down a bit more, and touch up a few spots. Then figure out something for the inside.

Bright side, welder is noticeably different now that it's not drinking a milkshake through a straw😁
 
Shrinking disc tighten things up?
 
Shrinking disc tighten things up?
Hadn't seen those before. Interesting tool.

A completely worn out flapper disc adds a lot of heat too...

with the bonus of being near to exploding haha

Might pick one of those up.

I'll try heating and quenching once I get closer to done. I'll deal with the inside piece first tho I think. Still have to fold something up for that.

I know my chances of getting it perfectly flat without a skim of filler are pretty slim, so I'm not super worried. As long as it's just a skim and not 1/4" thick 🤣🤣
 
Hadn't seen those before. Interesting tool.

A completely worn out flapper disc adds a lot of heat too...

with the bonus of being near to exploding haha

Might pick one of those up.

I'll try heating and quenching once I get closer to done. I'll deal with the inside piece first tho I think. Still have to fold something up for that.

I know my chances of getting it perfectly flat without a skim of filler are pretty slim, so I'm not super worried. As long as it's just a skim and not 1/4" thick 🤣🤣
I absolutely hate filler… almost to the point where I’d rather see where the patch is.

But many new cars have a skim here or there when they left the factory. And since we are driving around old tractors that will rust again I’d agree that there’s no reason to sweat it.
 
I absolutely hate filler… almost to the point where I’d rather see where the patch is.

But many new cars have a skim here or there when they left the factory. And since we are driving around old tractors that will rust again I’d agree that there’s no reason to sweat it.
Meh, it's fairing compound. A light skim doesn't offend me, if it's just there to fill dimples in the seams.

I don't care about seams where you can see spot welds from the factory, but when it's a weld across the middle of a flat panel?

It should be invisible. :meh:

I just used a chisel to remove 1/8" of it from the top half of the door where it's a bit wowed in. Won't be doing that.
 

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