CW 2.0 (11 Viewers)

[seapotato]

Well this was a success. There was a 1" gap under the straight edge when I started. Up top by window opening.

Slid a 6" square of plywood inside and gave it a love tap or two with my bfm.

Bfm=

Took Bradford's glass out first.

 

[seapotato]

Some cool down time. ( )

Corners are gonna be a pain in the girly parts, but what can you do.

 

[seapotato]

And that's enough of working on my tan for one day.

Need to have a serious search session for window runs and door seals. US is an absolute last resort .

Goal is to have doors that don't rattle.

Probably impossible in a ****ing 40

 

[cruiserpilot]

I don’t have any parts from later model doors.
Nice work there. FB might have someone with old rusty doors with decent internals.

 

[seapotato]

I don’t have any parts from later model doors.
Nice work there. FB might have someone with old rusty doors with decent internals.

The internals are ok, or at least between my other set and these I'll put together all the good bits.

. It's the felt tracks the windows slide in I want to replace. Sold in a few places so I'll do some digging when I have a minute

 

[cruisedeisel]

I'll have a dig. I might have something?

 

[bcsteel]

Are you selling those door bottoms on your Etsy profile??? I’m leaving myself very exposed for a solid comeback.

 

[seapotato]

Are you selling those door bottoms on your Etsy profile??? I’m leaving myself very exposed for a solid comeback.

Sure. They'll be mailed out with your ballgag and Magnum

 

[seapotato]

I'll have a dig. I might have something?

Cool. They aren't terrible new, a set is 80usor something from that city racer place, but I'll search a couple other countries first...

 

[bikersmurf]

Based on some of the write ups I’ve read those door bottoms are probably as good as many aftermarket ones… many of which aren’t great.

As far as I’m aware, almost all are now rubber in a metal track. I’ve not seen any that were felt like the original 40 series.

 

[seapotato]

Discovered inside of a rotor is the right radius for the corners...

I could probably rig up a press jig, but it didn't take that long to get it to this point. Gaps are a bit big, but maybe after making ****ing 8 of them I'll get better at it.

 

[seapotato]

Based on some of the write ups I’ve read those door bottoms are probably as good as many aftermarket ones… many of which aren’t great.

As far as I’m aware, almost all are now rubber in a metal track. I’ve not seen any that were felt like the original 40 series.

There's generic by the foot stuff available at some truck places. And Amazon...

I haven't done a deep dive yet. Still available from Toyota I think so I need to check that first to see if buying s***ty aftermarket is worth it.

With the door bottoms, they're not bad. Jig has a limited lifespan, the lines will get less crisp with each one, but I can probably get a couple more sets out before they're too beat up.

 

[seapotato]

And I'm calling that good enough.

I flipped it back over to give it a sand. the white is pretty s***ty so it needs to come off. Sanding picks up the low spots, it's actually pretty good except for a couple 2 inch sections of the weld seam.

I'll have to decide if it's worth slitting and re zapping those...filler is calling ...

Overall, the door is slightly concave, just went to check and it's flatter than the door on the cruiser right now.

Neighbour gave me this a while back. It's like a plastic scrubby on a grinding wheel. Awesome for ripping off paint without removing any metal.

He's an old hotrod builder...the nicest cruiser on earth wouldn't rise above "bush truck" with him....so you can guess where mine lands

 

[bikersmurf]

And I'm calling that good enough.
View attachment 3905658

I flipped it back over to give it a sand. the white is pretty s***ty so it needs to come off. Sanding picks up the low spots, it's actually pretty good except for a couple 2 inch sections of the weld seam.

I'll have to decide if it's worth slitting and re zapping those...filler is calling ...

Overall, the door is slightly concave, just went to check and it's flatter than the door on the cruiser right now.
View attachment 3905673


Neighbour gave me this a while back. It's like a plastic scrubby on a grinding wheel. Awesome for ripping off paint without removing any metal.
View attachment 3905676
He's an old hotrod builder...the nicest cruiser on earth wouldn't rise above "bush truck" with him....so you can guess where mine lands

I've heard that there is clear automotive primer... topped with a clear coat and it would have a real rat rod feel.





That said... about 15 years back I got tired of my truck being so many colours and sprayed it with Rustoleum Khaki. I was also tired of hearing people commenting on what a great truck it would be to take out and beat on. I know that they'll take a beating, but after working on every part of it over the last 30+ years, I don't want to think of anyone thrashing on it.


Edit... I just went and checked and it was about 15 years back that I painted it all one colour, and I'd thought it was more like 10. It's no wonder that my 15 year old rattle can paint job done with flat paint is starting to show it's age.

 

[seapotato]

I've heard that there is clear automotive primer... topped with a clear coat and it would have a real rat rod feel.





That said... about 15 years back I got tired of my truck being so many colours and sprayed it with Rustoleum Khaki. I was also tired of hearing people commenting on what a great truck it would be to take out and beat on. I know that they'll take a beating, but after working on every part of it over the last 30+ years, I don't want to think of anyone thrashing on it.


Edit... I just went and checked and it was about 15 years back that I painted it all one colour, and I'd thought it was more like 10. It's no wonder that my 15 year old rattle can paint job done with flat paint is starting to show it's age.

Armour coat shutter green is a pretty good match for the forest green of the truck.

I've given up on rattle cans, a litre can, some thinner and I spray with a gun. Easy peasy.

Rattle cans are useless now. Tiny pattern and they always jam up halfway through.

 

[bikersmurf]

Armour coat shutter green is a pretty good match for the forest green of the truck.

I've given up on rattle cans, a litre can, some thinner and I spray with a gun. Easy peasy.

Rattle cans are useless now. Tiny pattern and they always jam up halfway through.

That's probably what I'll do for the next paint job... but I can't complain about this paint Job... other than the Crackwhore green that keeps creeping through on the front fenders.

 

[seapotato]

. other than the Crackwhore green that keeps creeping through on the front fenders.

A badge of honour.

 

[seapotato]

s***ty thing about fixing 40 doors, is that there's two of the ******* things.


Apparently this dude was very concerned about sealing up the inside door panel. 3 layers of plastic and a s*** load of black goo.

I'm thinking this is a later model door. Has very different clips for the pieces that sweep the glass as it comes up.

I don't really want to be ordering 2 versions of things. Tempted to cheat and rebuild the inside bottom of the passenger door on the truck.

 

[seapotato]

****in seriously ...

Good thing no dust got in through the door panel...that'd be terrible


Said ****it. I'll patch this one up too. Practice if nothing else.

Once I'm finished with painting and gluing door seals, these doors are getting a serious dose of some flavour of wax oil on the insides.

 

[seapotato]

And that's enough of that bull**** for one day.

I'll maybe flip it over and do the annoying parts tomorrow. Maybe....

Gave it a sand so it looked less like it was dragged out a swamp

Looking at all 4 of my 40 doors, they're all a bit concave in one way or another. 50 years of slamming shut, or one fat guy leaning against them I guess.
Can't really tell by looking at them, just when you lay on a straight edge.

This will be annoying to fix as well.