Anti theft device
CW 2.0 (10 Viewers)
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- #902
I was actually thinking about adding a little spring loaded lever as kindof a safety lockout to the hi-low.
Wouldn't be that hard to do.
The throw to get into low is greatly reduced.
One worries about women and their purses hanging off random levers knocking them out of gear.
No different than the 60 was before I guess, and Mr T was fine with that setup.
I have my 2 cans of bear spray in their pouch hanging off the shifters for the last 2-3 yrs without issue but they
don't weigh much.
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- #905
I was thinking a shift gate along it's fore and aft travel with notches...
But I don't know if it's really necessary. I'll dive it like this for a bit. See how I like it.
Shifters travelling so little really makes the boots less of a pain.
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- #906
Little test rattle around the yard. I like it. 2 low is nice when the hubs are locked.
I cut the gate before installing it in the 60, so it can do it too, but honestly these were probably easier to build than a single stick setup.
Think I'll stand the one shifter up a bit straighter next time I'm doing stuff.
Other than that, I'm calling it a win.
I cut the gate before installing it in the 60, so it can do it too, but honestly these were probably easier to build than a single stick setup.
Think I'll stand the one shifter up a bit straighter next time I'm doing stuff.
Other than that, I'm calling it a win.
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- #907
Found my bucket of knobs.
(And I don't mean this website
)
Don't feel like getting filthy under the 60 today, so I just free handed this.
My smallest bit.
The 2 and 4 are going to be a bit more difficult to eyeball...
(And I don't mean this website
)Don't feel like getting filthy under the 60 today, so I just free handed this.
My smallest bit.
The 2 and 4 are going to be a bit more difficult to eyeball...
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- #908
The 2 isn't perfect but this is the last time I'll notice.
Might just buy a 5spd knob
Might just buy a 5spd knob
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- #909
Happy to not be stubbing my toe on this damn thing anymore.
Friend gave it to me a couple years ago. Was for the front of his Taco, but not anymore...some adjustments were needed
And done.
As tucked up as I could make it.
Not actually touching the pintle hitch, but it's definitely close.
Been annoying not having a receiver. Now to dig for that 5-4 wiring whizjammer. Reasonably sure I have one.
Friend gave it to me a couple years ago. Was for the front of his Taco, but not anymore...some adjustments were needed
And done.
As tucked up as I could make it.
Not actually touching the pintle hitch, but it's definitely close.
Been annoying not having a receiver. Now to dig for that 5-4 wiring whizjammer. Reasonably sure I have one.
Ahh… fun and games… modifying hitches to fit our rigs. I still have one for the 40, and another that’s slated for the front of the E350.Happy to not be stubbing my toe on this damn thing anymore.
Friend gave it to me a couple years ago. Was for the front of his Taco, but not anymore...some adjustments were needed
View attachment 3688614
And done.
View attachment 3688619
As tucked up as I could make it.
Not actually touching the pintle hitch, but it's definitely close.
View attachment 3688621
Been annoying not having a receiver. Now to dig for that 5-4 wiring whizjammer. Reasonably sure I have one.
I picked up one that was almost a perfect fit for the E350… it’s a grade 5 hitch. It is rated for 16k lbs and 1600 lbs tongue weight. Although I don’t think I’d tow that much… the rig itself doesn’t have an official towing capacity because of the use in was designed for. best option is to compare it to similar Ford cube vans with duals.
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- #911
Finally got the trailer wiring in. Doubt I'll ever tow anything with the 7pin, but I don't like having the connector flapping around back there. Fine in a wagon where you can tuck it away inside a panel.
I was kinda shocked to find I'd made life easier for myself when doing the rear harness. These were taped up ready to go. I was totally prepared to start hacking into the harness and cursing myself
Today's fun, is I wanted a battery switch to kill the truck power.
Been chasing a minor short in the "heater" circuit, so I've had the fuse box in and out a dozen times in the last month or two, and disconnecting the battery cable from the firewall was a pain.
Actually bought a second switch thinking I'd install it but realized I can get two birds stoned with just the one 3 way.
Can have truck and winch on the different outputs, and can have either, both or neither hot.
And because I was developing the cruiser lean to port, I moved the batteries to the other side of the tray while I was in there.
Should help a little.
Gonna have to put the top on again soon I guess. Bleh
I was kinda shocked to find I'd made life easier for myself when doing the rear harness. These were taped up ready to go. I was totally prepared to start hacking into the harness and cursing myself
Today's fun, is I wanted a battery switch to kill the truck power.
Been chasing a minor short in the "heater" circuit, so I've had the fuse box in and out a dozen times in the last month or two, and disconnecting the battery cable from the firewall was a pain.
Actually bought a second switch thinking I'd install it but realized I can get two birds stoned with just the one 3 way.
Can have truck and winch on the different outputs, and can have either, both or neither hot.
And because I was developing the cruiser lean to port, I moved the batteries to the other side of the tray while I was in there.
Should help a little.
Gonna have to put the top on again soon I guess. Bleh
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- #912
Put the top on yesterday. Had intended to replace the front attachment and channel for the bolt rope style, but forgot. Bestop ones like to pop out at inopportune moments...like the highway in a rain storm
Putting this on makes me want to build a proper fst even more. Really need to figure out why this is off first tho.
I can close up the gap with the hardtop on, but it sags forward as soon as it's not held at the upper corner.
Annoying more than anything.
Putting this on makes me want to build a proper fst even more. Really need to figure out why this is off first tho.
I can close up the gap with the hardtop on, but it sags forward as soon as it's not held at the upper corner.
Annoying more than anything.
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- #913
Did a little measure with my bevel gauge and I suspect the issue is the hard old cowl gasket is affecting the angle of the ws frame on the one side, giving it a slight twist
May a strip of neoprene would work. I think that's all the knockoff ones are.
I've seen what they ask for repros of that gasket, and that ain't happening
May a strip of neoprene would work. I think that's all the knockoff ones are.
I've seen what they ask for repros of that gasket, and that ain't happening
You removed the little angle bracket, one bolt less than an inch each side? There should be a rod bolted to that
that goes back and pulls tension on the window frame backwards. You don't have anything above the door do you?
Or pull the roof back with tension, that will reduce the roof sag too, on the inside look for little velcro tabs that
go around cross rods, that pull the roof tight
that goes back and pulls tension on the window frame backwards. You don't have anything above the door do you?
Or pull the roof back with tension, that will reduce the roof sag too, on the inside look for little velcro tabs that
go around cross rods, that pull the roof tight
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- #915
No, the gap is good on the driver's side.
It's the gasket holding it up. Shouldn't require force to sit at the right angle.
I don't have all the tensioning straps in yet, but that's a different issue. Just the nature of the top being more vertical at the back now.
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- #916
Gap with the s***ty old gasket removed...I'd say my theory was proved right.
So rather than spend between 150 and 400 (seriously???) for a replacement of unknown quality, I bought a 14x60" piece of 1/2" neoprene from Amazon for the kingly sum of 20 bucks.
Not quite as tight as driver's side but way better, suspect the flimsy little dash brackets have deformed after years of trying to overcome a s***/hard gasket.
You can get factory style ones out of aus for about 140, but I haven't seen reviews...it would be annoying to spend that and still have it suck.
I'll see how this does in the meantime, should last the winter at least. I didn't goop it down like I've always done with the factory ones, just because I suspect it'll compress over time.
So rather than spend between 150 and 400 (seriously???) for a replacement of unknown quality, I bought a 14x60" piece of 1/2" neoprene from Amazon for the kingly sum of 20 bucks.
Not quite as tight as driver's side but way better, suspect the flimsy little dash brackets have deformed after years of trying to overcome a s***/hard gasket.
You can get factory style ones out of aus for about 140, but I haven't seen reviews...it would be annoying to spend that and still have it suck.
I'll see how this does in the meantime, should last the winter at least. I didn't goop it down like I've always done with the factory ones, just because I suspect it'll compress over time.
Is neoprene closed cell or does it absorb water? Not a real concern but first thing came to mind.
It can be either depending where you buy it....
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- #919
Closed cell of course.
That gasket needs to be soft and compress, I've read accounts of some of the aftermarket options being too hard right out of the box, so I'm not super keen on spending hundreds to find that out.
This isn't a forever solution (unless it is) but it was cheap and took all of 15 minutes. So it'll do till a better idea comes along.
That gasket needs to be soft and compress, I've read accounts of some of the aftermarket options being too hard right out of the box, so I'm not super keen on spending hundreds to find that out.
This isn't a forever solution (unless it is
) but it was cheap and took all of 15 minutes. So it'll do till a better idea comes along.
I’m betting you’ll get what, 15-20 yrs out of it?! Lol