CV/front axle "trail" spare components (3 Viewers)

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kcjaz

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So, as I am going through my LC to re-baseline it for the next 150K or more miles, I started thinking about spare parts to carry on the trail. In general, I've been thinking about buying parts that I initially just was going to replace but instead of replacing what appears to be a perfectly fine part now, just carry the spare so I'm ready if it fails. For example, I may just buy a new starter to have when I need it rather than preemptively replacing it now.

My biggest "part" failure fear (rational or not) is blowing a CV by making a driver mistake or misjudgment. I'm not asking if it is a good or bad idea to carry a spare CV or not. The answer to that will inevitably "it depends on what you're doing". What I want to know is this:

1. If you are going to carry spare front axil components, what should you carry? Should you just get a full axle assembly or are other components needed if you are going this way?

2. How practical is field/trail replacement of a CV. In my case, I know I need some education and have thought about just taking mine apart and putting it back together in my garage to gain a real understanding of what is really involved and how to do it.
 
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Needing a CV without a front locker is extremely unlikely, but I get that’s not the point here.

You’d need the whole axle, diff oil and seal (plus dust cover) on that side in case yours breaks at the inner spud and takes out that seal.. there is an outer oil seal but all it does is protect the already sealed hub bearing from dust/mud/water so if it gets fragged it’s not critical to replace to get out.

It is quite practical to change one. As posted recently getting the inner joint out of the diff can be a challenge but the outer part doesn’t even require separating a ball joint. Remove the dust cap, loosen the nut, get the stub moving, loosen the 2 large ball joint “bridge” bolts to separate the knuckle from the LCA, and once those are out and the steering wheel turned to that side you should have room to pull it. Plus probably loosening brake line brackets and stuff to let it swing out far enough.
 
ive replaced a CV on the trail.

after that i carried a spare axle. i used a catch pan with a plastic plate bolted to the top as a tool bin to hold, spare quart of diff oil, boot kit, 39mm 12 pt. socket, and a bunch of rags.
i would recommend carrying a heavy duty battery powered impact wrench. not the little 250 ft/lb variety, but the 750 and above. really helpful on the trail.

very uncommon to break a CV without lots of lift or really hammering on it. once you've done it, the job only takes an hour or so. depending on clean up.
 
ive replaced a CV on the trail.

after that i carried a spare axle. i used a catch pan with a plastic plate bolted to the top as a tool bin to hold, spare quart of diff oil, boot kit, 39mm 12 pt. socket, and a bunch of rags.
i would recommend carrying a heavy duty battery powered impact wrench. not the little 250 ft/lb variety, but the 750 and above. really helpful on the trail.

very uncommon to break a CV without lots of lift or really hammering on it. once you've done it, the job only takes an hour or so. depending on clean up.

Was juiuust about to post that the OP really needs to talk to @TexAZ :)

Somewhere on mud, there’s a post with more details on his in-the-boonies replacement, including their particularly inconvenient circumstances...not to mention Patrick’s wife...who had to take her very first stab at off-road driving through Moab trails out of necessity after the repair.

Couple o stealth badasses... :) ...who are also very nice folks.
 
Sense we're on the topic of CV's. I saw this product and I think it's not a bad idea.
I was going to buy 4 and put them on my LX. I mean, of all the vehicles out there I believe the LX is the perfect truck to sport these. :cool:

 
Sense we're on the topic of CV's. I saw this product and I think it's not a bad idea.
I was going to buy 4 and put them on my LX. I mean, of all the vehicles out there I believe the LX is the perfect truck to sport these. :cool:


I'm new to this and unable to differentiate good from bad - are these really a useful product if the CV boot is already doing its job?
 
Sense we're on the topic of CV's. I saw this product and I think it's not a bad idea.
I was going to buy 4 and put them on my LX. I mean, of all the vehicles out there I believe the LX is the perfect truck to sport these. :cool:
I'd honestly be worried about the exterior abrasion of these on the CV Boots doing more harm than good. MY 2008 with 236k miles still has the factory CV Boots, and they look fine. The CV Boots as designed do their job just fine.

That might be an interesting idea to carry in case you rip a boot, but a trash bag and some duct tape can patch a boot together also...
 
I'm new to this and unable to differentiate good from bad - are these really a useful product if the CV boot is already doing its job?
No you don't need them. They would only add to the under carriage bling. Boot rips are rare.
 
Sense we're on the topic of CV's. I saw this product and I think it's not a bad idea.
I was going to buy 4 and put them on my LX. I mean, of all the vehicles out there I believe the LX is the perfect truck to sport these. :cool:



Yeah those work fine on shocks. But on a rotating assembly like a CV joint? Bad idea.
 
So, for a CV/Axle replacement, here's the parts list I've come up with:

PriceQNTY
CV/Axle assembly43430-60071
404.27​
1​
404.27​
includes $40 core charge
Inner Seal90316-83001
33.17​
1​
33.17​
Inner & Outer Boot Kit04427-60092
43.18​
1​
43.18​
Differential Gear Oil Left 75W-8508885-02506
26.25​
?
Grease?

Do I have the right diff oil? What's the quantity needed? Also, I assume I'd need some MP grease of some kind. What would that be?
 
So, for a CV/Axle replacement, here's the parts list I've come up with:

PriceQNTY
CV/Axle assembly43430-60071
404.27​
1​
404.27​
includes $40 core charge
Inner Seal90316-83001
33.17​
1​
33.17​
Inner & Outer Boot Kit04427-60092
43.18​
1​
43.18​
Differential Gear Oil Left 75W-8508885-02506
26.25​
?
Grease?

Do I have the right diff oil? What's the quantity needed? Also, I assume I'd need some MP grease of some kind. What would that be?
the new axle will come with boots and pregreased. it is a couple feet long and maybe 40 lbs.
 
the new axle will come with boots and pregreased. it is a couple feet long and maybe 40 lbs.
Thanks. It looked that way but I wasn't sure. Also, @bloc said something about a "dust cover". Not sure what that is?
 
Thanks. It looked that way but I wasn't sure. Also, @bloc said something about a "dust cover". Not sure what that is?
Per the parts diagrams pressed into both the diff housing/extension and back of the knuckle are metal rings that fit tight to the cv cup. These are usually intended to keep gravel and mud away from the oil seal that actually keeps grease & fluids in and water out.

If you had a catastrophic cv end failure I could see one of these getting damaged. You’d probably be fine to drive off the trail without replacing, but if your repair just meant putting a new/good shaft in and buttoning it up having those parts on hand wouldn’t be a bad idea.
 
MY 2008 with 236k miles still has the factory CV Boots, and they look fine.
I’m not doubting you one bit but that sounds impossible given my experience with CV boots and I’d be knocking on wood after making that statement lol. Is that typical for these rigs? I think the best I’ve attained was 2 of 4 replaced by 225k on a Subaru I had years back. Fronts never seemed to get me more than 125-150k.
 
I’m not doubting you one bit but that sounds impossible given my experience with CV boots and I’d be knocking on wood after making that statement lol. Is that typical for these rigs? I think the best I’ve attained was 2 of 4 replaced by 225k on a Subaru I had years back. Fronts never seemed to get me more than 125-150k.
Replaced mine at 215k were perfect and it was unnecessary to replace them. These aren’t your typical cv axle.
 
Per the parts diagrams pressed into both the diff housing/extension and back of the knuckle are metal rings that fit tight to the cv cup. These are usually intended to keep gravel and mud away from the oil seal that actually keeps grease & fluids in and water out.

If you had a catastrophic cv end failure I could see one of these getting damaged. You’d probably be fine to drive off the trail without replacing, but if your repair just meant putting a new/good shaft in and buttoning it up having those parts on hand wouldn’t be a bad idea.
Are you talking about these? (yellow highlight)
1608511198094.png
 
Are you talking about these? (yellow highlight)
View attachment 2530200
Originally I’d say yes, but them being grouped in with the axle assembly suggests they are pressed onto that part and might come with it, vs being on the diff and knuckle.
The focus then might be the oil seals for the differential and back of the knuckle. A bad axle failure could ruin those seals.
 
So, for a CV/Axle replacement, here's the parts list I've come up with:

PriceQNTY
CV/Axle assembly43430-60071
404.27​
1​
404.27​
includes $40 core charge
Inner Seal90316-83001
33.17​
1​
33.17​
Inner & Outer Boot Kit04427-60092
43.18​
1​
43.18​
Differential Gear Oil Left 75W-8508885-02506
26.25​
?
Grease?

Do I have the right diff oil? What's the quantity needed? Also, I assume I'd need some MP grease of some kind. What would that be?
I had my 2015 LX570 passenger side CV axle replaced yesterday. I bought the axle assembly 43430-60071 and oil seal 90311-47013 and had an independent mechanic replaced it. The old cv axle had some damage near the cv boot clamp grove and was leaking grease, I wrapped it with some silicone tape and drove like that for a few thousand miles over six months while I searched for OEM parts. the last long trip of over 1000 miles in two days broke the silicone tape. Here’s a picture of the old axle That shows where the clamp grove damage was. I was glad I had bought the oil seal, apparently the old one was broken in the process. I brought the leftover diff oil I used ten months ago while replacing the diff fluids in case more fluid was needed. The mechanic said very little fluid was lost when he pulled the old axle so he didn’t top off the fluid. I bought an OEM cv boot repair kit before, now I wonder if reboot would fix the leak since the clamp grove seems to be damaged, not the boot itself. I was going to reboot the old axle and keep it as a spare part. Good luck with your axle replacement.

5F948A0B-63E6-48ED-9E65-4E93A1714C4B.jpeg
 
. The mechanic said very little fluid was lost when he pulled the old axle so he didn’t top off the fluid.
Might want to pull the fill plug just to be sure . . .
 
Parts diagram lists two different part numbers for the oil seal. 90311-47013 used by @LCorLX and 90311-47027. The diagram suggest that left and right are different and the photos of the seals are different but the description of 90311-47013 says left and right. hmm. :hmm:

1608598803316.png


1608598621573.png
 

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