CV Boots Replaced with directions (1 Viewer)

[lesgarten]

I went to the airport and bought a few Gallons of Jet Fuel and soaked mine. Sprayed them off with Brake Cleaner and they were spotless.

 

[PharmerDan100]

When installing FDS. It's important that NEW snap ring be positioned open end down and centered on axle. I use grease to hold snap ring in place. We want to always use a new snap for a few reasons. One being they get damaged/marred each time installed/removed. They then tend to get hung up on mar, making installing axle that last ~ inch more difficult. Also important, is to grease the inner lip of diff side seal. Use great care to not bump seal with FDS.

They actually go in without much resistance, if above procedure followed. It is easier, when steering knuckle off, but do-able with kunckle on.

A few techniques I've used for last inch, knuckle on:

• With UBJ released. Use knuckle, by grabbing it near top as a leaver. With force, drive inward with a snapping motion. Works best, with LCA raised high. A lifted rig, may want to back off T-bar to get LCA higher.
• Hit outer end of axle with heavy wooden block.
• Dive in from below, hitting lip of inner CV of front drive shaft with brass dowel.

Here's just how easy, knuckle off. A FDS will pop in diff. Grease and position of new snap ring is key. Also note: Having FDS straight and parallel with diff, will put all force squarely into seating it.


Damaged inner snap ring.

View attachment 3461381
New inner snap ring, showing open before setting with open end down and centering.
View attachment 3461382

View attachment 3461384

What is the proper way to install this snap ring? I figured out how to pop off/on the outboard end snap ring using my Harbor Freight snap ring pliers, but they didn't quite work on this one. I ended up just using a screwdriver to pop it off without too much care about damaging it. I'm hoping to use a little more finesse though when I place the new one.

 

[PharmerDan100]

#9) Should have room on DS without pulling TRE. Just guide inboard shaft back along outside of differential tube IIRC. But easier if unbolt (two bolts) TRE from knuckle on PS. With steering released you'll get a little more swing of the steering knuckle.
View attachment 1361174

#23) I didn't catch that in OP #23 it's in wrong order. Install in reverser order, that is outboard axle first makes sense.

I noticed the FSM recommends removing the 2 bolts to that piece that connects the steering arm to the knuckle, but I see that in this picture you just detached it at the steering arm ball joint. I also saw similar technique on YouTube tutorials. Are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing one way vs the other?

 

[MACKSDAD]

Finally picking the project back up after a busy few weeks. It seems I have 3 types of grease here, I am replacing both inner and outer boots on my cv (seems like no one does that) does anyone know what goes on which end? Also I have 2 boots 1 more of a hard plastic and one more of a rubbery plastic, can someone tell me which is designated for inner and outer?

 

[PharmerDan100]

Finally picking the project back up after a busy few weeks. It seems I have 3 types of grease here, I am replacing both inner and outer boots on my cv (seems like no one does that) does anyone know what goes on which end? Also I have 2 boots 1 more of a hard plastic and one more of a rubbery plastic, can someone tell me which is designated for inner and outer?View attachment 3642368

According to CruiserTeq website:

That's how I did it.

Regarding inner vs outer boots, I forget which one is which, but it will be apparent when you remove the old ones and fit the new ones since they're different circumferences.

 

[MACKSDAD]

Putting CV back together today. Saw this good chunk missing from this piece on the CV. Does anyone know if you can but this piece alone or if it’s even worth it. I didn’t have any issues with this cv other than the ripped boots so I just finished the reboot and going to hope for the best.

Thanks for the link @PharmerDan100

 

[vipergrhd]

Putting CV back together today. Saw this good chunk missing from this piece on the CV. Does anyone know if you can but this piece alone or if it’s even worth it. I didn’t have any issues with this cv other than the ripped boots so I just finished the reboot and going to hope for the best. View attachment 3654629

View attachment 3654630


Thanks for the link @PharmerDan100

I would find a used OEM unit and rebuild it. That is a good paper weight.

 

[Dirt J]

Doesn't look to be available separately.

I'd rob one out of a used shaft.

 

[2001LC]

If any remarkable play, in outer CV of FDS. Or splines of outer axle of FDS worn. I'd replace the FDS.

 

[MACKSDAD]

Re-booted and re-greased this CV (oem). Put it back on today since I couldn’t stand he vibration from the NAPA CV I put on a while back.

Vibration, gone. Drove 25 miles , all good. Going to ignore that chunk of metal that was missing from the joint and carry on with my life. I’ll eventually find 2 old OEM units to rebuild and replace both sides. For now I have 2 other projects in my driveway I’d rather spend money on.

A full rebuild kit would be sweet if anyone sold it but I’m sure not enough people are interested in even doing that to make it worth while for a company to sell. Anyways, 4 hours later everything’s back together and I’m having a beer.

Cheers.