CV Boots Replaced with directions (2 Viewers)

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quick question for you guys, does the boot kit come with this dust seal on the outboard side? also for the snap rings that are being removed, are you guys reusing them or buying new ones? I cant quite get the right part numbers for them

1644799336419.jpeg
 
quick question for you guys, does the boot kit come with this dust seal on the outboard side? also for the snap rings that are being removed, are you guys reusing them or buying new ones? I cant quite get the right part numbers for them

View attachment 2924147

The image in this post might help you.

 
I finally completed rebooting both my CVs and now I have leaks at both of the front differential CV seals. I replaced the seals when I did the CVs as preventative maintenance, but seems like I shot myself in the foot. The leaking is very mild--it's not dripping, but it's definitely wet on both sides. How big of a deal is it? Should I tear in there and replace them again, or should I just keep an eye on it when I do my oil changes?
 
I finally completed rebooting both my CVs and now I have leaks at both of the front differential CV seals. I replaced the seals when I did the CVs as preventative maintenance, but seems like I shot myself in the foot. The leaking is very mild--it's not dripping, but it's definitely wet on both sides. How big of a deal is it? Should I tear in there and replace them again, or should I just keep an eye on it when I do my oil changes?
I'd reseal. Issue with any leak, is you could run to low on lube. Very likely gets worst!

When installing seals. Clean area of all crud, this includes shelve around seal seat, as it's used to set proper depth. Lube seal outer rubber with gear lube, to aid in tapping in.
Very important to seal squarly Witsend seal seating tool does this perfectly.
or
My old oak stick method


Then grease seal inner lip before installing FDS.
 
Thanks for linking to that seal driver. I really don't want to pull those axles out again but it looks like that's what needs to be done.
 
Thanks for linking to that seal driver. I really don't want to pull those axles out again but it looks like that's what needs to be done.

You're a member of an Elite and very Expansive club if that helps? Note so sure about the Elite part, but no doubt about the Expansive part...
 
Know-one does want to pull FDS & seals again. It's PITA and time consuming.

Knock-on-wood. After doing more than 40 of these, not one leak.
 
Know-one does want to pull FDS & seals again. It's PITA and time consuming.

Knock-on-wood. After doing more than 40 of these, not one leak.
Hmmm, knowing what you are doing? Isn't that kinda cheatin'...

;)
 
Alright, I ordered seals and that tool. I’m really not excited about this ! :cry::cry:
Ho do I tell how far to insert the seals? After watching that video I’m pretty sure that I inserted the passenger side seal too far, but I can’t really tell what to do with the driver side.
 
Has anyone successfully removed the CV without messing with the lower ball joint? I was able to separate the CV from diff, but I dont have enough room to snake the CV through to remove completely.
 
Has anyone successfully removed the CV without messing with the lower ball joint? I was able to separate the CV from diff, but I dont have enough room to snake the CV through to remove completely.
Figured I will remove the lower ball joint. Is there a sweet spot to hit on the lbj similar to the ubj? Another thread mentioned a ball joint wedge. I noticed a ball joint puller wont work since the brake dust sheild is in the way. Thanks for the help!
 
Figured I will remove the lower ball joint. Is there a sweet spot to hit on the lbj similar to the ubj? Another thread mentioned a ball joint wedge. I noticed a ball joint puller wont work since the brake dust sheild is in the way. Thanks for the help!

I pull the upper ball joint, if i'm leaving knuckle on. I always use a puller.
I never use a BFH to beat off ball joints. Doing almost always insure reduce ball joint life.
Evertough 67025 $15 or free rental from parts stores. I use with a small OTC press cup.
evertough 67025 (5).JPG


With out pulling any or just LBJ?
I got the CV axle out without disconnecting the LBJ.
 
I got the CV axle out without disconnecting the LBJ.
I have done this too. Can't remember exactly, but I may have turned the wheels to get more clearance. I have also pulled the LBJ with a puller. Just took a little wiggling to get it on.
 
I removed lug nuts, wheel, and a few other things, but not LBJ.

I was responding to this question.

I have done this too. Can't remember exactly, but I may have turned the wheels to get more clearance. I have also pulled the LBJ with a puller. Just took a little wiggling to get it on.
I've never tried to pull a FDS (CV), without at-least disconnect UBJ (upper ball joint) from knuckle. Even then, I fight to not damage seal in back of knuckle, brass bushing and needle bearings.

Most times I'm pulling knuckle, and restoring it. At same time I'm doing a wheel bearing service. Then, with knuckle out. FDS is a price of cake.

I did just get a puller. That can pull LBJ, with wheel hub/brake rotor on knuckle. But it's a bear (heavy), to hang the knuckle with it's wheel hub on the spindle. But doable!
OTC 7310A w/press cup. It's the big boy. It, easily fits lower ball joint, with brake rotor on.
IMG_5779.JPEG

I had this puller for TRE. But I don't like the fixed press cup, as it can damage studs threads. My other OTC press cups will not fit well on it, which would help protect threads. So I'm looking for better puller.

IMG_6257.JPEG
 
Does anyone happen to have an extra 5574K16 lying around that I could buy? I need to reboot my inner right side CV and I really don't need 10 of the things.
 

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