CV Boots Replaced with directions (9 Viewers)

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I’m about to replace both my CV axles and output seals tomorrow. Have any of you had luck replacing both axles without losing diff fluid? Or is there no way and I need to drain and refill my front diff? Any tricks would help as I just replaced front center and rear diff fluid about 5 months ago.

Thanks in advanced!
 
I’m about to replace both my CV axles and output seals tomorrow. Have any of you had luck replacing both axles without losing diff fluid? Or is there no way and I need to drain and refill my front diff? Any tricks would help as I just replaced front center and rear diff fluid about 5 months ago.
I’ve removed the cv axle without losing a drop, you just have to Jack up the side you’re working on as high as you can. A normal shop floor Jack with a 2x4 should suffice (depending on whether you’re lifted or not. If you loose a little bit it’s no big deal just refill what you lost.
 
I used to use the log or brass dowel to pound in the DS, until I found easy faster way!

Easiest way to seat axle in differential, is to pop in the drive shaft (DS) using its own in and out action of inner CV.
  1. Grease new snap ring to hold in place open end down.
  2. Grease lip of seal
  3. Gently guid inner axle of DS into differential and seal, using slight twisting motion to mesh teeth of axle.
  4. At this point DS inner axle will still need to go in about 1/2" to seat. While holding inner CV tulip in place, push outer axle with a forceful and quick action to pop inward. Sometimes it seats first try, ohter times it takes a few pops.
Note: if replacing seal, lube it with gear lube to seat.



Just install back my CV axle, does this gap between the axle and diff tube looks right?

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I see the FDS (AKA CV) dust shield just inside differential, which is what you want to see.

Now pull on FDS and see if it holds in the differential. Yes, than your done!
 
I hated getting the cv axle seated but yes that looks correct.
 
I see the FDS (AKA CV) dust shield just inside differential, which is what you want to see.

Now pull on FDS and see if it holds in the differential. Yes, than your done!

Just pulled it, only can shaking a little, so I think I am good based on your test method.
 
Just pulled it, only can shaking a little, so I think I am good based on your test method.
Not my test method. This is clearly stated, as most every thing I'll suggest. In the FSM (Factory service manual)

I'll add a note here with regard to differential side seal. Whereas they can be in or out ~0.5mm. I prefer out more so than in. Reason is, the protruding lip of seal, seats deeper into dust shield on FDS.
 
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The inner race is symmetrical, correct? I put it on upside down but it looks perfectly symmetrical to me so I'm assuming it doesn't matter.

Edit: it wouldn't go down far enough to fit the snap ring so I took it off and reversed it. Went on much easier the right way.
 
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Hey Mudders ... holy heck ... recently tore a boot, so went though the gauntlet and pulled out the axle on passenger side. I'm currently stranded in Scottsdale at my buddies house ... ordered a reboot kit (forgot the axle seal) which is coming in today at Bell Toyota - BUT - BUT - I cut off the rings and boots and I think I have an aftermarket axle! I only have a cage with ball bearings in the outside end and the inner side that plugs into the diff had like a u joint situation going on. Crap!

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I don't want to reboot an aftermarket axle. Can someone verify that this is in fact not OEM based on this? It seems both ends have a cage and balls in a basket.

I need to find an axle, new or reman somewhere in Phoenix so I can get home. Yikes.

2006 LC

Thanks
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@Escape Artist I am by no means an expert, but the inboard side looks correct to me based on the original axle of mine that I took apart last week. I'm not familiar with the outboard side yet, so I can not advise on that.

My concern with the outboard side is that I was under the impression that it was not supposed to be able to be disassembled. When replacing the outside joint, Toyota only sells it complete with the outer splines, the joint, and with the entire axle shaft already assembled.

I have some axle seals for a 2000 in case your order gets delayed from the dealer. I thought they were the same part for the later years, but that would be easy to confirm. I'm in North Phoenix if you need one in a pinch.
 
@Escape Artist I am by no means an expert, but the inboard side looks correct to me based on the original axle of mine that I took apart last week. I'm not familiar with the outboard side yet, so I can not advise on that.

My concern with the outboard side is that I was under the impression that it was not supposed to be able to be disassembled. When replacing the outside joint, Toyota only sells it complete with the outer splines, the joint, and with the entire axle shaft already assembled.

I have some axle seals for a 2000 in case your order gets delayed from the dealer. I thought they were the same part for the later years, but that would be easy to confirm. I'm in North Phoenix if you need one in a pinch.
I found an axle seal to replace the one I forgot to order. I appreciate very much your support regardless. On the way to the dealership now. It doesn't seem that they know if that axle is OEM or not. I just want to know if they're supposed to be a basket and six ball bearings on each side of the axle. The inner side just slides apart once you remove the boot there's literally like nothing holding it together. So I sprayed some brake cleaner on there to expose those u-joints ... But I think that's supposed to be a cage with ball bearings. That's what's making me suspect. So here I am spending time and labor to reboot a knockoff axle it's a little frustrating. Remanufactured ones are several weeks out. New OEM are a $650 now.
 
I found an axle seal to replace the one I forgot to order. I appreciate very much your support regardless. On the way to the dealership now. It doesn't seem that they know if that axle is OEM or not. I just want to know if they're supposed to be a basket and six ball bearings on each side of the axle. The inner side just slides apart once you remove the boot there's literally like nothing holding it together. So I sprayed some brake cleaner on there to expose those u-joints ... But I think that's supposed to be a cage with ball bearings. That's what's making me suspect. So here I am spending time and labor to reboot a knockoff axle it's a little frustrating. Remanufactured ones are several weeks out. New OEM are a $650 now.
If you're in a pinch, you may want to try to get a cheapy from Napa to get you by for now. Not optimal, but it buys you time.
 
What do you make if this? It's an asymmetrical cut out / chip out to allow access to a snap ring? What kinda janky stuff is that? Supposed to be that way? And those u joints at the inner end that goes into the diff are susssssss. With no remans available in Phoenix I think I have to buy the OEM ... 😞
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I found an axle seal to replace the one I forgot to order. I appreciate very much your support regardless. On the way to the dealership now. It doesn't seem that they know if that axle is OEM or not. I just want to know if they're supposed to be a basket and six ball bearings on each side of the axle. The inner side just slides apart once you remove the boot there's literally like nothing holding it together. So I sprayed some brake cleaner on there to expose those u-joints ... But I think that's supposed to be a cage with ball bearings. That's what's making me suspect. So here I am spending time and labor to reboot a knockoff axle it's a little frustrating. Remanufactured ones are several weeks out. New OEM are a $650 now.
Ouch! I got my CVs shipped from Bell Lexus for $400 each about 20 months ago.
 
Ouch! I got my CVs shipped from Bell Lexus for $400 each about 20 months ago.
$650 is the parts counter price if you walk in off the street. Bell Lexus has the online price at $510 right now if you order off the website. Still a big step up from the $400 you paid.
 
$650 is the parts counter price if you walk in off the street. Bell Lexus has the online price at $510 right now if you order off the website. Still a big step up from the $400 you paid.
I just ordered one from Bell Lexus on line. Should be here tomorrow. $510 plus $40 core charge that they say they will refund. Hopefully I'll get back on the road tomorrow.
 
Hey gents I need help, my CV boot (driver side) is weeping. CV is mechanically sound, no issues, just the grease needs to be resealed by replacing a new clamp.
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From partsouq, I am tad confused which one to order. Anyone care to assist? Thanks
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Hey gents I need help, my CV boot (driver side) is weeping. CV is mechanically sound, no issues, just the grease needs to be resealed by replacing a new clamp.
View attachment 2895225

From partsouq, I am tad confused which one to order. Anyone care to assist? Thanks
View attachment 2895230
Napa has the correct band size you need.

 
Napa has the correct band size you need.

I appreciate your prompt response and thank you for the info. Napa it is tomorrow. Will update here once new band is installed.
 

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