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Why do you want beadlocks? (And I ask as a guy who has beadlocks...)
What would be your main reasons NOT to run beadlocks (I ask as a guy who likes the idea of beadlocks)
Wheels are 54lbs each..or more
Cost a lot of money to install tires if the shop is willing to do it, and a long time
Most shops won't even try to balance them because they are so heavy night damage their expensive machines
Difficult to change tire if there is a flat, 130-140 each tire and wheel
You will lose power and stopping distance
You will stress your axle and drive train in general
Btw did I mention they are heavy?
I wonder how much Staun or similar internal bead locks weigh?
That's any big tire. My Nittos are 107 pounds each without a wheel, and my aluminum Racelines are right at 40 pounds a piece according to the shipping label. Is it a heavy combo, yes, but it's not unmanageable. 17" Hutchinsons run around 44 pounds with the insert, so very similar.
I've run almost every style of beadlock, and wouldn't trade the ability to air way down for anything. Yes they have their quirks, but in 16 years I've never had an issue with any of them, and they have all been street driven.
-I don't know why you would take them to a shop when with beadlocks you can install your own tires at home in an afternoon with a bottle of soapy water, a torque wrench, and a 5 gallon bucket.
-Take your wheels and tires to an independent shop that does big trucks. They can balance them without issue for cheaper than you driving to discount tire. Or if you have a local bro-dozer shop take them there. 22x14's wrapped in 40's aren't light and those shops have no problem.
-That's most any off road wheel and tire, has nothing to do with beadlocks. Bigger tires are heavier. Stronger wheels are heavier.
-Changing up in size will impact braking no matter what. Again not limited to the wheel.
-You are correct, bigger heavier tires put more stress on the drivetrain. But it's the additional leverage that kills components more than anything. More offset, taller tires, and the ability to air down further for more traction all increase the stress on all aspects of the drivetrain.
I'm man enough to admit that I sorta regret going with beadlocks. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE the way they look. And I know the manufacturer, so the price was an incentive as well. But in the end, my Cruiser doesn't live in the dirt every weekend and the many drawbacks listed above have, over time, outweighed the benefit. For those that really push the limits of their 80, I can't argue that beadlocks are a great choice. But for those that are choosing beadlocks more because they like the idea of having beadlock, I'd really suggest one of the many faux beadlocks options that are available from nearly any manufacturer. If I had it to do all over again, I'd pick up a set of Raceline 935's (935M-79060-00) in a 17x9 with 5" backspace.Wheels are 54lbs each..or more
Cost a lot of money to install tires if the shop is willing to do it, and a long time
Most shops won't even try to balance them because they are so heavy night damage their expensive machines
Difficult to change tire if there is a flat, 130-140 each tire and wheel
You will lose power and stopping distance
You will stress your axle and drive train in general
Btw did I mention they are heavy?
You install the BL's yourself and bring them to the tire shop for balancing. I was surprised how little weight was required for the Hutchinsons, depending on tire choice. Basically the same to balance OEM wheels.Wheels are 54lbs each..or more
Cost a lot of money to install tires if the shop is willing to do it, and a long time
Most shops won't even try to balance them because they are so heavy night damage their expensive machines
Even with a heavy MT tire, they weigh ~115 lbs combined. Your are basically adding 20 lbs per corner which is not much different then running steelies. If you were to loose power or stopping distance, you have other unresolved issues that the additional weight has exacerbated. I have ran these on the 100 (4:88 w/ ABS) and 81 (4:11 w/o ABS) and haven't noticed any impact on power or braking compared to 35's on OEM wheels. Not to say it doesn't exist - but you would have to measure it with a tape measure or on a dynoDifficult to change tire if there is a flat, 130-140 each tire and wheel
You will lose power and stopping distance
You will stress your axle and drive train in general
I do not run mine full-time, but no issue doing so. It's overkill for DD and why waste expensive tread on pavement? We drove the 100 5000 miles this summer to HIH7 and Moab, wheeled at 10 psi for 9 days and then drove back to Canada. I say we, as my GF did most of the driving, including offroad, on 35r17 Nitto RG's. Not a single issue with power, braking, driveline or highway cruising with Hutchinsons. Can't speak for other manufacturer BL's.Btw did I mention they are heavy?
Not all beadlocks are created equal. Especially Chinese, real or faux. I researched manufacturers and read about the balancing issues, leaking air, loosening bolts and poor quality / QC. That's what swayed me toward Hutchinsons and I've experienced none of these issues. The o-ring and studs combination works.I'm man enough to admit that I sorta regret going with beadlocks.
@joez care to share your backspace info? Maybe a photo of how much they stick out from the fenders?
You install the BL's yourself and bring them to the tire shop for balancing. I was surprised how little weight was required for the Hutchinsons, depending on tire choice. Basically the same to balance OEM wheels.
Even with a heavy MT tire, they weigh ~115 lbs combined. Your are basically adding 20 lbs per corner which is not much different then running steelies. If you were to loose power or stopping distance, you have other unresolved issues that the additional weight has exacerbated. I have ran these on the 100 (4:88 w/ ABS) and 81 (4:11 w/o ABS) and haven't noticed any impact on power or braking compared to 35's on OEM wheels. Not to say it doesn't exist - but you would have to measure it with a tape measure or on a dyno
I do not run mine full-time, but no issue doing so. It's overkill for DD and why waste expensive tread on pavement? We drove the 100 5000 miles this summer to HIH7 and Moab, wheeled at 10 psi for 9 days and then drove back to Canada. I say we, as my GF did most of the driving, including offroad, on 35r17 Nitto RG's. Not a single issue with power, braking, driveline or highway cruising with Hutchinsons. Can't speak for other manufacturer BL's.
@mickeyt How 'bout the advantages to Hutchinsons?
- Never felt the need to carry a spare wheel on trail. I don't even carry a spare tire, but instead have a patch-kit as I can access BOTH sides in under 10 mins with the right tools. This cancels the additional GVW and saves weight up high
- 0 to 8 psi will help ALOT with traction and actually works to prevent driveline damage, even in mud. An extra 20 lbs will snap an axle? C'mon. Heavy tires with a larger dia on the other hand....
- DOT approved
- never had to retorque the studs after numerous checks
- never had air leak from the o-ring even after truck was parked for 3 weeks
- Military grade and MADE IN USA
If you already 4Lo your 80 on 35's or 37's, why wouldn't you run Hutchinsons? Well, price is a drawback but I've had no regrets.
No argument that Hutchinson makes some great wheels. And the fact that they make a true dual sided beadlock is cool. I've had my KMC XD222 wheels for two years now and had zero issues. They've been great. My main gripe is weight and inability to ever achieve consistent and lasting balance. I don't regret having them and I've never considered selling them. I just accept that they probably weren't totally necessary and, in hindsight, I should have spent the money on other stuff.Not all beadlocks are created equal. Especially Chinese, real or faux. I researched manufacturers and read about the balancing issues, leaking air, loosening bolts and poor quality / QC. That's what swayed me toward Hutchinsons and I've experienced none of these issues. The o-ring and studs combination works.