Cummins swap time! (2 Viewers)

[mattimooseprime]

I'm usually in the "rebuild it all since I'm there" boat but was questioning it since it seemed most people don't. I'll probably end up getting a kit and doing that because if I don't it'll eat away at me and I'll have to do it lol.

Unfortunately I didn't get any work done over the weekend, forgot it was hunting season! hopefully this weekend I'll have made some progress somewhere.

 

[mattimooseprime]

Got the engine sitting on both mounts, finally. It'll fit a little crooked until the transmission is in, but I can run wires and such with it how it is. Adequate clearance of the brace I put in too! Man that's hard on the gravel driveway. I really need to pave it. There's like an inch of wiggle room to get it to fit correct.

Which way should the rubber parts of the mount face? Does it matter? Somehow I got one facing one way, and the other facing the other way, as you can see in the photos.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

How’s your steering box/vacuum pump clearance? That’s one of the tight spots.

 

[mattimooseprime]

How’s your steering box/vacuum pump clearance? That’s one of the tight spots.

There's not a lot of space between the motor mount and the back of the power steering pump, that's for sure. About 1.5 inch at best? I have to cut about 2 threads off of the banjo bolt for the power steering to be able to get the bolt in and out, which is fine, because it's a little larger than I needed anyways I think. It's repurposed from a supra as I lost the one off the dodge. I'm only vaguely worried about getting the transmission hooked up to the engine while in the rig now. it might work!

The worst sport for clearance is the heater related pipes and A/C hardline. I mashed the A/C line pretty good, which is a bummer. It doesn't look like it tore but I might pull it out and re-make it when I get to the final steps of the build. the 6th valve cover is also pushing the heater valve and hoses but since the engine still isn't sitting perfect, I'm not too worried. it did pull the valve out of one of it's hoses, so now I might as well pull it all off and re-do it. I was trying to retain the factory twisty hose clamps since none of it was leaking, but I suppose I deserve that one for trying to do it without removing it.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Timing case to steering box, vacuum/PS pump to motor mount, fuel filter to brake booster are the 3 tightest clearance spots to focus on.

You can move the Steering box out 3/8” with a spacer plate, and use a fuel filter housing from a 96 6BT will take care of 2 of those issues.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Be careful with the heater core pipes. One of mine got bent during install. Only way to replace it is to pull out ALL of the interior dash.

 

[mattimooseprime]

Timing case to steering box, vacuum/PS pump to motor mount, fuel filter to brake booster are the 3 tightest clearance spots to focus on.

You can move the Steering box out 3/8” with a spacer plate, and use a fuel filter housing from a 96 6BT will take care of 2 of those issues.

My rig is right hand drive, so fortunately I don't have to worry about two out of the 3! But now I have turbo clearance issues lol.

Be careful with the heater core pipes. One of mine got bent during install. Only way to replace it is to pull out ALL of the interior dash.

Oh......that is depressing and scary. I've been trying to be delicate around them but I'm bound to hit them at some point I think. Hopefully if I do it's soft and I don't break them. I really don't want to take the dash out.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Ah yes, a RHD will had Turbo to steering column/brake booster/master cylinder clearance to deal with. Sorry cant help you there with those.

 

[mattimooseprime]

Ah yes, a RHD will had Turbo to steering column/brake booster/master cylinder clearance to deal with. Sorry cant help you there with those.

I'm going to try a industrial style 90 degree dump manifold, and see if it works. it'll put it towards the rear of the engine but hopefully it'd be low enough to clear the clutch master and booster. if that doesn't work, the guy I got my mounts from makes this neat little spacer that pushes the turbo up towards the front of the engine with the factory manifold, here it is! it's pretty neat.

 

[Dirty Koala]

That is an interesting approach, the only thing that would would have to consider there is leaving enough roo, for the air intake into the compressor housing. depending on which accessory bracket you use, you will have either an alternator or AC compressor up top in front of the turbo. Most likely hte AC compressor as our frame rails make it very hard to fit hte AC compressor down low like in a dodge truck. My air inlet hose doesnt have much clearance behind the compressor and my turbo is in the middle of the manifold.

 

[mattimooseprime]

That is an interesting approach, the only thing that would would have to consider there is leaving enough room for the air intake into the compressor housing. depending on which accessory bracket you use, you will have either an alternator or AC compressor up top in front of the turbo. Most likely hte AC compressor as our frame rails make it very hard to fit hte AC compressor down low like in a dodge truck. My air inlet hose doesnt have much clearance behind the compressor and my turbo is in the middle of the manifold.

In some other ones and videos he's sent me, there is an A/C pump there. the intake comes out at a 90 and is quite close lol. His kit uses the toyota A/C compressor AND the toyota alternator, due to inability to get Dodge parts there easily. He swaps over the pulleys and clutch kits from something else, to retain the dodge 9 rib belt and to use the factory Yota harnesses and A/C lines. it also uses manual belt tensioners instead of the factory dodge spring tensioner. It's quite impressive. I'll try and find some of the photos in case other people are interested in any of his work.

Will the adapter fit with the Dodge A/C pump? I'm not sure. I don't have my compressor or alternator off the 1hdt anymore to compare sizes. That's part of my decision to try an industrial manifold first, to give me as much room as possible. I think that may also help me with intercooler piping and an airbox. I'm dreading that aspect of this build. Sometimes I kick myself for not just getting another 1hdt but this'll be worth it lol.

 

[mattimooseprime]

My industrial manifold came in!!!! And then I immediately slapped the turbo on and did a mock up. I'm pretty sure it will work. Had to order circlip pliers as I could get the massive clip off to clock the turbo, but couldn't get it back on with my channel locks. Oops.

Where are good sources for oem dodge / Cummins parts? I'm attempting to only order factory parts where I can. So I'm trying to find the exhaust bolts for the turbo to manifold. The industrial manifold uses two studs and two bolts. It's a silly thing to do but since I am not on a time crunch, I'm trying to avoid trips to the hardware store.

I also learned I did in fact place both of my rubber engine mounts in upside down. I'll remedy that before I get too much farther. Whoops.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I was able to get that ring back on with a huge pair of channel locks. It wasn’t fun.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I haven’t found a good discount parts place but the local Cummins dealer (not Dodge stealership) is reasonable. I need to setup a commercial account to see what that discount is.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Best thing about upgrading turbos is getting away from that clip! Power Driven Diesel carry’s a lot of parts for the 12v Cummins motor.

 

[mattimooseprime]

I haven’t found a good discount parts place but the local Cummins dealer (not Dodge stealership) is reasonable. I need to setup a commercial account to see what that discount is.

Oh duh I didn't even think about that.....I'll have to look!

 

[mattimooseprime]

Best thing about upgrading turbos is getting away from that clip! Power Driven Diesel carry’s a lot of parts for the 12v Cummins motor.

If that turbo wasn't already almost new I'd have upgraded it. I really want to go larger to let this engine do what it was built to do!

 

[mattimooseprime]

My overdrive gear came in from Cruiser Teq. Strange how one piece in a box can make you so excited. It's like I can feel the project getting closer. I placed a few orders for misc bits to scoot things along, and hopefully during the week of thanksgiving I will show some good progress. Changes in my plan also have slightly modified how the swap will be getting done, so I may have the NV4500 mounted on the back of the 6bt as well. I'm going to attempt to do it with it in the rig but I have a feeling my stubbornness is going to bite me in the ass.

I am now heavily considering getting the Part-time 4WD kit as I will have the transfer case apart. I'll be in there, might as well do it, right? I've been digging thru threads about it and being that I occasionally daily drove the rig before it blew up it just seems like it will make the most sense to go ahead and slap it in there to prolong the life of various parts. My past lack of knowledge about the CDL button and what it did may have also helped put this idea in my head, lmao.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

The part time kit is fairly easy and can be done under the truck if done later.

 

[mattimooseprime]

My driveway is getting paved this weekend, so I am at a standstill for outside work temporarily. I've got the manifold waiting to go on, and I think I've got everything prepped for the electrical, fuel, and coolant. I've started cleaning the transfer case while I wait for the refund of the wits end kit and the arrival of the test kit. I want to pull it open to do the overdrive gear but I should probably wait to keep things nice and lubed, lol.

I'm super excited to test this new kit out and document how it'll install and perform. Here's some teaser photos.