Nice. A few of the sensors will cross over. I believe I’m still running the Toyota oil pressure and water temp sensors.
Cummins swap time!
- Thread starter mattimooseprime
- Start date
-
- Tags
- builds
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Yep! I got OE Toyota stuff and figured I'd just make adapters to get them to fit. I'm also just starting to research doing my tach. So far all I know is that the 1hdt uses the injector pump to do it and the Cummins uses a hall sensor on the crank pulley. For some reason I had it in my head that it was monitored on the transfer case, but that's very much not the case lol.
I originally I used the W wire on alternator. I currently use flywheel sensor which required tapping into adapter plate. Both methods using a Dakota Digital box into stock tach.
- Thread starter
- #24
I'll probably use the w wire, I need to re-do all that as I'm using the dodge alternator anyhow. Good to know I need the Dakota box, I'll put that up top on my list of parts to buy!
- Thread starter
- #25
Did the kdp, installed my water temp sensor and oil pressure sender. Pulled the turbo off and removed the dodge engine mounts. Painted the front cover and will start on cleaning the front of the block for paint. Waiting on my water pump to arrive and have to go back to Napa, they have me the wrong thermostat. Whoops.
If you aren’t using the factory location for the oil pressure sensor or someone else I would plug it with a solid brass fitting. It’s left side under the pump. It’s a fail point due to the plastic sensor. If it cracks it will blow all your oil out. I had it happen to me and another member on here. The location for oil pressure you are using is the better location.
- Thread starter
- #27
That's a good piece of advice. I was looking at that, Wondering if I should plug it or leave it. It will be plugged! I've got to figure out what to do about the fleece return line, as apparently the thermostat holder that came in the NW adventure kit does not have a port for a water line.
Are you talking about the small line that goes to the nipple on Toyota radiator? Here are a few photos of my setups. I ran line from one of the ports on the head on my 80. On 75 I will not be doing it since the radiator I'm using doesn't support it. You can see the two brass plugs. Either of those can be a water line depending on how your heater lines are. I run my heater from the rear where you have your temp sensor and lower water neck.
- Thread starter
- #29
Oh interesting! I thought about running my heater from back there, I just might end up changing it.
There was a nipple coming out of the original thermostat housing, and it just had a hose that looped to the other side and had a one way check valve in it. The fleece coolant bypass installs a coolant return from the rear freezeplug on the head and goes to that nipple on the original thermostat housing. With the added power this has I'd like to keep it as cool as possible. I'll find somewhere to hook it up.
I made some good headway today but it started raining and I wrapped up real quick, I wasn't able to take photos. I just might buy a pop up for cover while I do this. Not having a garage is very lame. I got the brackets hooked up, got stuff painted, removed the dodge oil pressure switch, put the front cover back on, things like that.
There was a nipple coming out of the original thermostat housing, and it just had a hose that looped to the other side and had a one way check valve in it. The fleece coolant bypass installs a coolant return from the rear freezeplug on the head and goes to that nipple on the original thermostat housing. With the added power this has I'd like to keep it as cool as possible. I'll find somewhere to hook it up.
I made some good headway today but it started raining and I wrapped up real quick, I wasn't able to take photos. I just might buy a pop up for cover while I do this. Not having a garage is very lame. I got the brackets hooked up, got stuff painted, removed the dodge oil pressure switch, put the front cover back on, things like that.
- Thread starter
- #30
also - I'm working on figuring out which sanden A/C compressor head will fit the 80 series ac lines. i am having a hell of a time! lol. is there a part number for this or am i treading dark water?
Last edited:
I'm running the stock Dodge / Cummins compressor with custom A/C lines. You can complete the compression fittings yourself if you have the tool. A local shop helped me set them.
Same here on my 80, using stock Dodge. 75 isn’t getting A/C.
Humid days with the temps low will cause my evaporator to freeze and stop air flow. Probably just a mismatch of the system. I just turn it off for a couple of minutes and it works fine.
- Thread starter
- #34
Well I had a bad day. Removed the timing belt tensioner plate to install the cherry picker hook and when I was reinstalling the plate, I sheared a bolt. What's not pictured is me then breaking the extractor in the hole I drilled.
I knew I should have just kept drilling it out and tapped new threads. I'll fix it. Just had to walk away lol. Removing sheared bolts is a normal ocurance at work and that doesn't usually happen.
Enjoy this other photo I took prior of the broken bolt.
I knew I should have just kept drilling it out and tapped new threads. I'll fix it. Just had to walk away lol. Removing sheared bolts is a normal ocurance at work and that doesn't usually happen.
Enjoy this other photo I took prior of the broken bolt.
- Thread starter
- #35
Worked on getting that sheared bolt out, made some decent progress. I had to smash the extractor I broke as deep in as I could and drill out the bolt. The Cobalt bits I bought aren't even touching it. I got about 6 or 7 threads worth of space now. I might just weld a stud in and call it good.
After some other cleaning and prepping I decided to change up my coolant temp sensor situation. Going to put it in the middle of the head behind the fuel filter and use the rear port as the source for the heater core.
Does anyone know the temp sensor thread pitch? I for the life of me can't remember and want to order the correct adapter or tap to thread a fitting myself. Part number is 89422-20010.
Other than that, I did more cleaning and prep work. My fuel heater delete space will he here soon so for now I just have the pump opening blocked off.
After some other cleaning and prepping I decided to change up my coolant temp sensor situation. Going to put it in the middle of the head behind the fuel filter and use the rear port as the source for the heater core.
Does anyone know the temp sensor thread pitch? I for the life of me can't remember and want to order the correct adapter or tap to thread a fitting myself. Part number is 89422-20010.
Other than that, I did more cleaning and prep work. My fuel heater delete space will he here soon so for now I just have the pump opening blocked off.
- Thread starter
- #36
Motor mounts are here all the way from aus and I'm pretty damn happy with them so far. Nice and tight fit. Starter has been rebuilt (well, cleaned inside and out and painted because it was in good shape) Also got my fuel heater bypass installed and reinstalled the fuel pump.
I rethreaded the temp sensor and repurposed the dodges coolant bypass fitting. That'll sit behind the head.
Tomorrow if it's not raining, I'll tap the bolt hole I messed up and reinstall the tensioner and never touch it again.
I rethreaded the temp sensor and repurposed the dodges coolant bypass fitting. That'll sit behind the head.
Tomorrow if it's not raining, I'll tap the bolt hole I messed up and reinstall the tensioner and never touch it again.
- Thread starter
- #37
Made some progress this week with the good weather but also learned of model year differences the hard way. apparently, when the 1fz was introduced it required a a different engine mount spot on the frame, so toyota just added it to all the cruisers. Mine being an earlier year, does not have it. so sadly, my mounts don't work. Other than that, hooking everything else up engine wise appears to be rather simple. heater, fuel, and vac lines are all extremely close to where they need to be. I am waiting on intercooler parts to arrive, the radiator, and a date for my nv4500 to HF2A adapter to progress much further than just hooking it up.
I'll probably hang the engine on the passenger side mount and then do a mock up of the drivers side and fab it up or try some other cummins adapter mounts. Moving an 1100lb engine and a 5000lb truck on gravel is NOT easy. I'm still sore from that. Seeing the engine at least sitting in there in person is amazing, though. It looks so good. I can't wait.
I'm anxious to start on the turbo, and am sad I can't. the clutch booster is going to prove to be an interesting obstacle. I think a "motorhome / RV" manifold will work, but it's going to put it extremely close to it. either that or flipping the stock manifold and going for more of a top mount style might work too.
In the mean time I'll probably start on gauges and battery wiring.
I'll probably hang the engine on the passenger side mount and then do a mock up of the drivers side and fab it up or try some other cummins adapter mounts. Moving an 1100lb engine and a 5000lb truck on gravel is NOT easy. I'm still sore from that. Seeing the engine at least sitting in there in person is amazing, though. It looks so good. I can't wait.
I'm anxious to start on the turbo, and am sad I can't. the clutch booster is going to prove to be an interesting obstacle. I think a "motorhome / RV" manifold will work, but it's going to put it extremely close to it. either that or flipping the stock manifold and going for more of a top mount style might work too.
In the mean time I'll probably start on gauges and battery wiring.
Do you really need a clutch booster? What clutch pedal do you have? I’m running 80 series clutch pedal and no booster.
- Thread starter
- #39
I doubt I need it, it's just something that came on all the manual cruisers from japan I guess. Its the factory clutch pedal and master cylinder in the cruiser, and a valair nv4500 clutch. They really over engineered the factory clutch setup on the 1hdt. It has the booster and an accumulator so the pedal feels like a cloud. my accumulator sprung a leak so its gone, and all it did once removed was introduce a slight fluttery feel of the throw-out bearing in the pedal.
On my 80 I’m running 80 series pedal, 60 series master, and NV4500 slave. On my 75 I have 70 series pedal, Dodge master, and NV4500 slave.
All kinds of combos work.
All kinds of combos work.
