maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Not that I know of or would think.
Builds Cummins 6bt/nv4500 build (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mr Cimarron
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #742
That would imply I know how to do electrical math. I know I have battery cable going to the starter. I'm hoping to do a bit more investigating when I get home and rely on you guys on the forum for better guidance like usual. I did buy the HP clamp thing on my way into work this morning. I do need to get it worked out before Thanksgiving weekend when I head off for a week long road trip.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Short of swapping out starters I'm not aware of any other way to even approach testing it. A starter motor that is getting tired will spin slow and pull excessive amperage. Whats excessive? I guess thats subjective. Anyway thats my best guess as to whats going on. I've seen it on a couple other cummins.
Its definitely worth doing tests with a DMM first to see volt drop and voltage though. And of course with a volt drop test, current needs to be flowing -- so you need to be cranking. Hot side and ground.
Its definitely worth doing tests with a DMM first to see volt drop and voltage though. And of course with a volt drop test, current needs to be flowing -- so you need to be cranking. Hot side and ground.
bloc
SILVER Star
If it is easy to get the starter out having a look at the contactor, brushes and armature will tell a lot about the condition, without having to blindly buy another and throw it on there.
Not exactly 100%, but if you get it off and the brushes are burned and past the point of the springs putting good pressure on the armature, you have your problem.
Not exactly 100%, but if you get it off and the brushes are burned and past the point of the springs putting good pressure on the armature, you have your problem.
Remember the starter on the Cummins is like a Toyota you can replace the contacts and plunger and usually get away with out a rebuild. Slow start though can have a lot of cuses.
- Thread starter
- #746
I will probably pull it tonight at least see what brand it is. I know the alternator that came with it was a part store brand so who knows if its original or knock off replacement.
- Thread starter
- #747
Pulled the starter and checked all my connections. Connections looked good. No build up on anything.
This is where the power comes from going to the starter. The big one on right comes from the battery. You can't see it but under it is an identical cable going to be starter.
Here's the starter. No OEM markings and guessing by the paper tag it's a part store brand.
So I guess I can bench test this thing but what am I looking for? I haven't watched any YouTube yet.
This is where the power comes from going to the starter. The big one on right comes from the battery. You can't see it but under it is an identical cable going to be starter.
Here's the starter. No OEM markings and guessing by the paper tag it's a part store brand.
So I guess I can bench test this thing but what am I looking for? I haven't watched any YouTube yet.
So the end cover that hides the contacts is the one in your last picture on the part of the starter that the positive terminal and trigger attach. It should be three Philips screws holding it on. Unbolt them and carefully remove the cover. Behind that cover will be the contacts and plunger. If it's slow starting it may not be the contacts, usual when they go bad you just hear a click from the starter when you engage it.
That defiantly looks like a parts store reman starter. I was on rock auto yesterday and saw they sell factory Nippon denso starters for our motors.
That defiantly looks like a parts store reman starter. I was on rock auto yesterday and saw they sell factory Nippon denso starters for our motors.
- Thread starter
- #749
Thanks. I'll dig in after dinner tonight and see what the inside looks like.
- Thread starter
- #750
Here is the inside.
Looks like normal wear to me.
Edit: meaning I do not think that is your issue. Slow starting could mean the starter motor it's self is going south.
Edit: meaning I do not think that is your issue. Slow starting could mean the starter motor it's self is going south.
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- Thread starter
- #752
I was thinking the same thing. I will drag it to work with me tomorrow and drop it off somewhere to get tested. Lucky for me I work in the middle of fleet truck central (Cummins, Freightliner, etc) so getting it tested properly shouldn't be an issue. At least better than my one man hack electrical operation I got going in the garage.
Get yer junk fixed yo!!
Man all this talk diesels are bulletproof, diesels run forever, and every time you turn around one of the diesel swap threads is broke down. 
Just over here running my two original 1FZ's
Just over here running my two original 1FZ's
Get yer junk fixed yo!!
- Thread starter
- #755
No kidding. Nothing like getting stuff done last minute before a road trip. Who needs a starter when you have a manual trans.Get yer junk fixed yo!!
No kidding. Nothing like getting stuff done last minute before a road trip. Who needs a starter when you have a manual trans.
My list:
1. Leaking injection pump (hopefully just gaskets at the pump inlet.... :crossingfingers
2. New brake MC
3. Bleed brake system
4. Front axle jobber
... Oh yeah.... And work .....
- Thread starter
- #757
To bad you don't here around here. My stepsons are great for helping bleed brakes. It's the only thing they know how to do in the garage but they're good at it.
My list:
1. Leaking injection pump (hopefully just gaskets at the pump inlet.... :crossingfingers
2. New brake MC
3. Bleed brake system
4. Front axle jobber
... Oh yeah.... And work .....
Just take your salt and go build a real 1fz. [emoji14]Man all this talk diesels are bulletproof, diesels run forever, and every time you turn around one of the diesel swap threads is broke down.
Just over here running my two original 1FZ's
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Yeah the slow start will be the motor in the starter IF it's starter related. I don't know that having the starter tested will tell you what you need to know but I've actually never taken a starter in to be tested so I don't know what kind of magic machines they have. I've always just hooked them up to jumper cables lol
But the problem I'd expect is that they probably only do basically what you could do at home with jumper cables. Yes the solenoid functions, yes the bendix kicks out, yes it spins fast and freely. But can they put a load on it and see how much current it draws? Can they see how fast it spins with a load on it? I don't know but I don't think they can?
But I can tell you I've seen this happen a couple times where a starter that spins too slow makes a cummins long crank. I'd bet a new one solves your problems.
But the problem I'd expect is that they probably only do basically what you could do at home with jumper cables. Yes the solenoid functions, yes the bendix kicks out, yes it spins fast and freely. But can they put a load on it and see how much current it draws? Can they see how fast it spins with a load on it? I don't know but I don't think they can?
But I can tell you I've seen this happen a couple times where a starter that spins too slow makes a cummins long crank. I'd bet a new one solves your problems.
- Thread starter
- #760
Your p
Your probably right. I'm getting down to the point of having time to diagnose vs replacement. I have to replace a radiator support and door lock actuator on the wife's VW this week as well. May be easier to buy a new one and throw it in as the test. If it solves it I turn my old one in for core refund. If not return the new one.
