Cummins 4bt into my FJ60 (2 Viewers)

[The Phoenician]

I missed a few of your updates since I've been back to work, but have you turned on the engine yet?

 

[Wyoming]

More pictures of the flywheel housing.

 

[Wyoming]

Now that everything was on the engine, it was time to turn my attention onto mounting it in the truck.

I promised to get the part number for the engine isolators I was goint to use for someone, here is a picture of the box with the part number. I ended up not using the isolators.

I wanted to use the engine brackets that I already had welded to the frame. I started by fabricating plates that attached to the block.

 

[Wyoming]

To lay out the holes in the plate I did a center to center measurement on the vertical holes and marked them on one side of the plate. Then I measured center to center from the top hole to the side hole. With a compass I use that measurement to draw an arc on the steel. Then I repeated the process using the center to center measurement from the lower vertical hole to the side hole. Where the two arcs met was the center of my third hole.

 

[SNLC]

Question: Do you like to go wheeling in this thing?

Josh is a buddy of mine, he and some other friends go wheeling around here from time to time. I usually have a truck too but at the moment am truckless, build in the works. If you like to go wheeling though we could bring ya along on some of our trips. Probably do some snow trips this fall as the snow begins to fall!!

BTW, this is a better engine than the v8, depending on what your uses are of the truck! You ought to come by and check out my diesel some time.

Cheers

 

[Wyoming]

I attached the engine to the bell housing (Without the clutch to make it easy) and hung it in place. Height was a concern and I thought (hint) I hung it at the right height to mock up the engine mounts. Then I attachet pieces of steel to the engine brackets. I made measurement to figure out how I was going to build the rest of the engine mounts.

 

[Elbert]

Are you going to run solid engine mounts on the front? Seems like you would be in for some serious vibration?

Looks like you just posted right before me....keep the project rolling...its going to be a cool setup in the end.

 

[Wyoming]

Here are the mounts I fabricated. They aren't pretty, but they are strong.

 

[Wyoming]

Other mount.

 

[Wyoming]

And the finished product.

You might notice those three weld seems on the drivers side mount. I may have installed it and seen that the engine was off center and cut it down only to figure out that it needed to be off center to make the mount work with the steering pump. I may have then cut it apart, added a piece back in and then proceeded to weld it back together backwards. I may have then restored it back to the exact original configuration. I'm not saying that happened, I'm saying it may have happened.

 

[Wyoming]

So this is where the engine sits. Not until I was able to remove the chains and let engine sit on the mounts was I able to put the hood on and see what kind of real clearance I had. It appears that I can raise the engine at least three inches from where I have it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Man, you have that motor place waaaaaay low in the frame! Any issues with diff to oil pan clearance?

 

[Wyoming]

I missed a few of your updates since I've been back to work, but have you turned on the engine yet?

I have not started the engine yet. Lots to do before I get there.

Question: Do you like to go wheeling in this thing?

Josh is a buddy of mine, he and some other friends go wheeling around here from time to time. I usually have a truck too but at the moment am truckless, build in the works. If you like to go wheeling though we could bring ya along on some of our trips. Probably do some snow trips this fall as the snow begins to fall!!

BTW, this is a better engine than the v8, depending on what your uses are of the truck! You ought to come by and check out my diesel some time.

Cheers

I've been massively buys lately, but when I get a free day I will be stopping by.

Are you going to run solid engine mounts on the front? Seems like you would be in for some serious vibration?

Looks like you just posted right before me....keep the project rolling...its going to be a cool setup in the end.

\

I was going to run the engine isolators, but I couldn't make them work with my engine brackets on my frame.

Man, you have that motor place waaaaaay low in the frame! Any issues with diff to oil pan clearance?

Engine is going up!

 

[Wyoming]

I was planning a lot more (Clean up the engine compartment) and going to take a little more time, but I was given a very strict time limit to be able to roll out of the shop on Sunday night. I had to hit that mark so I rushed and worked when I was way too tired. This led to some mistakes which now have to be corrected. I will have to pull the motor mounts off and alter them or totally refabricate them tonight and tomorrow night. Not a problem. I have to move the tranny and transfer over 1 1/8" toward the passanger side to match the engine. Not a problem. I hope to have these taken care of by Thursday. Then, it's just plumbing.

 

[Wyoming]

Pulled this from my thread on what I did for break-in after my engine rebuild:

First 50-100 miles keep it in high gear and rpms between 1500-1800.
For the next 1000 miles keep it below 2000-2100 and drive it around.

I got on the road on Monday and took care of the first requirement. It was hard because at that rpm without my lockup wired up yet I was barely doing 55mph. Semi's were blowing right by me, but I kept my foot out of it.

The next round I will split up like this: The first tank of fuel will be mellowish and the second will be towing my trailer around empty. After that I'll romp on it like I normally do and drive like normal.

For oil changing I'll change this first batch with 6-8hrs of operation. Then run it for about 30hrs and change again. After that I'll change on a normal schedule. I'm really looking for the engine to last 15 years and I figure probably sometime before that I'll have another comutter so the lifespan should lengthen.
​

You did your first oil change after 6-8 hours? What oil did you use the first time? Have you ever looked into the John Deer break in oil?

 

[Wyoming]

I didn't read through the entire thread, but what's been done to the engine to require a break in procedure?

If it's a new engine it's already broke in. Cummins engines are run in before they leave the factory. Take care of the engine, keep it loaded (i.e. don't free rev it to 3000 for 10 minutes).

If you have fresh bores, pistons, rings, cam and tappets break in the cam, dump the oil, re-adjust the valves, change the filter then drive it easy for 10 minutes (like a cruise down the freeway), then put it under a medium load (like go up the biggest hill you have in your area) then put it under 100% load for as long as possible. This would be like towing 10K up the same steep hill at full throttle, max boost, highest gear you can get the engine into. Keep RPM's below 2500 to maintain maximum cylinder pressure.

Continue trying to keep the engine under moderate to heavy load try to keep the oil changed often enough to tell when it stops turning black. Monitor blowby. Blowby should all but stop when the oil stops turning black. This would probably be 1000 miles of driving, ideally all at once with lots of mountain passes and towing included (go on a vacation, tow your boat).

When you've gone a couple oil changes with regular oil without using any oil, blowby is gone and the oil stays clean for extended periods then switch to synthetic if wanted.

If you slapped rings in old bores just drive it, it'll never be perfect so don't worry about it.

I did an overhaul on the engine. New bearings, pistons and rings and I honed it out. All new gaskets.

That sounds like a lot of oil changes in a short period. How many are you recommending?

 

[boots4]

You did your first oil change after 6-8 hours? What oil did you use the first time? Have you ever looked into the John Deer break in oil?

Yup, the first oil change comes quick. I have not looked into the John Deer stuff, I simply used regular dino oil (Chevron Delo stuff) and wix oil filters since I knew I'd be changing it quickly. As the rings seat to the cylinders a lot of work is done early so you don't want to leave that oil with all that fine metal suspended in it circulating inside the engine for long.

 

[Elbert]

Every break-in procedure I've read talks about varying the RPM and the driving distance, with periods of both short and long driving (but not like all day, without putting the engine under heavy load or getting into the upper RPM range. Some people believe to use a straight 30 weight oil for break in and then changing to what you plan to run, others have their own view. I would search around for what cummins says. Also talks about avoiding long idle times during break-in.

I've just always run the oil I plan to use (in my case its been non-synthetic), and taking it easy on the engine after I verify the cooling system is working right and I have no leaks.

I would change the oil for the first time probably within a day or two of initial operation, seems like you would run delo 400 or rotella 15-40, which I believe is pretty much the standard for the larger oil burners.

In regard to how we set my engine (gm V-8).... We set it as high as possible and still allow for the hood to close, then made adjustments left and right to try and align square with the radiator and then allow for ps pump and gear clearance on the left frame rail

 

[Wyoming]

A thanks to 69Rambler for the pilot bearing number, 6302rs, over on 4btswaps. I appreciate it.

 

[Wyoming]

Hey guys, does anyone have a lube oil filter head for the 4bt with the horizontal mount they would like to part with? This might save me some serious routing headaches if someone has one.

The one I have now is the vertical one.