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- #381
First, you have an alternator guy? Second, for the love of God, does everything have to get upgraded. I mean seriously, who would have thought I could get a super-hooty alternator pully? Lol!
Cummins 4bt into my FJ60
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First, you have an alternator guy? Second, for the love of God, does everything have to get upgraded. I mean seriously, who would have thought I could get a super-hooty alternator pully? Lol!
Man, your engine is looking good. Glad the cobra head worked out.
Kief, any idea how much those decoupler pulleys cost? If you find one, can you please share the source and part number? Thanks.
Kief, any idea how much those decoupler pulleys cost? If you find one, can you please share the source and part number? Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #383
Finished up the alternator bracket last night. When I did the final weld it pulled the whole thng foreward a thirty-second of an inch, so I had to file the bracket holes to make the whole thing slide back 1/16". Then it was dead nuts perfect.
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- #384
The last thing I did for the night was to attach the banjo fitting and tube for the injection pump preasure realease valve. I'll just connect my existing fuel return line with a hose clamp.
The second picture is the line from the head to the fuel injection pump that Boots and The Phonician and I discussed earlier. I found some nice fittings and some nylon high pressure air hose at NAPA. Not the prettiest the way it loops, but it'll work.
The second picture is the line from the head to the fuel injection pump that Boots and The Phonician and I discussed earlier. I found some nice fittings and some nylon high pressure air hose at NAPA. Not the prettiest the way it loops, but it'll work.
After doing some research on a VW TDI and seeing how violent things get with a seized (solid) clutch/decoupler pulley it made me wonder why the 4bt motors didn't have them. My motor had layers of hoses over the lower radiator hose because the serpentine belt jumped so bad it would eat into the lower radiator hose. I don't know if one exists to fit the alternator on mine- which looks just like yours (Delco?). I have a guy that I go to for alternator stuff. That is all he does and he's reasonably priced so if I need parts, help or just don't have time I go to him.
In later model cars they are essential, especially on the high out put diesels. I found quite a few interesting videos on u-tube.. It isn't a must fix but seems like a good idea.. They run from 50 bucks on up depending on the type/model etc..
As for really cool upgrades:
http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampers/charts/tractor-dampers.htm
In later model cars they are essential, especially on the high out put diesels. I found quite a few interesting videos on u-tube.. It isn't a must fix but seems like a good idea.. They run from 50 bucks on up depending on the type/model etc..
As for really cool upgrades:
http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampers/charts/tractor-dampers.htm
- Thread starter
- #386
I'm not even going to look...Okay, I looked.
The old adds said to "Just say 'No'". I'm going to have to say NO! Too late.
48 hours from now I will be fitting the engine into the 60. It's time to call it built and start worrying about the install.
I did some research on the harmonic balancers/dampeners and found an article that described the torsion on the crankshaft and how it affects timing, harmonic vibration and minimizing fatigue on the crankshaft and other parts as well. It also stated that they are designed with a particular motor in mind, thus a 6bt would need a different model but I think that link I left didn't differentiate between a 6bt or a 4bt.
I think its smart to get the project going and make sure its proven, then do all the cool upgrades as time and $$$ allow.
Nice work and great progress in a short amount of time.. Keep it up!!
I think its smart to get the project going and make sure its proven, then do all the cool upgrades as time and $$$ allow.
Nice work and great progress in a short amount of time.. Keep it up!!
- Thread starter
- #388
Does anyone know the size of the bolts that are used to secure the bell housing adapter to the engine block? I can't find mine and I can't remember what size they are! I need to buy new ones tomorrow!
Found it! It's actually called a flywheel housing. The bolts are M12 X 1.75 X 40.
Found it! It's actually called a flywheel housing. The bolts are M12 X 1.75 X 40.
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- Thread starter
- #389
Let's talk about break in procedure. One guy I sold my first injection pump to said to use John Deer break in oil for the first 50 hours. I'm having a hard time finding it. Everyone has a procedure. The guy at the place I'm buying Rotella from tonight said to run regular oil, but to do the first oil change at 2500 miles. Anybody?
Pulled this from my thread on what I did for break-in after my engine rebuild:
First 50-100 miles keep it in high gear and rpms between 1500-1800.
For the next 1000 miles keep it below 2000-2100 and drive it around.
I got on the road on Monday and took care of the first requirement. It was hard because at that rpm without my lockup wired up yet I was barely doing 55mph. Semi's were blowing right by me, but I kept my foot out of it.
The next round I will split up like this: The first tank of fuel will be mellowish and the second will be towing my trailer around empty. After that I'll romp on it like I normally do and drive like normal.
For oil changing I'll change this first batch with 6-8hrs of operation. Then run it for about 30hrs and change again. After that I'll change on a normal schedule. I'm really looking for the engine to last 15 years and I figure probably sometime before that I'll have another comutter so the lifespan should lengthen.
For the next 1000 miles keep it below 2000-2100 and drive it around.
I got on the road on Monday and took care of the first requirement. It was hard because at that rpm without my lockup wired up yet I was barely doing 55mph. Semi's were blowing right by me, but I kept my foot out of it.
The next round I will split up like this: The first tank of fuel will be mellowish and the second will be towing my trailer around empty. After that I'll romp on it like I normally do and drive like normal.
For oil changing I'll change this first batch with 6-8hrs of operation. Then run it for about 30hrs and change again. After that I'll change on a normal schedule. I'm really looking for the engine to last 15 years and I figure probably sometime before that I'll have another comutter so the lifespan should lengthen.
I didn't read through the entire thread, but what's been done to the engine to require a break in procedure?
If it's a new engine it's already broke in. Cummins engines are run in before they leave the factory. Take care of the engine, keep it loaded (i.e. don't free rev it to 3000 for 10 minutes).
If you have fresh bores, pistons, rings, cam and tappets break in the cam, dump the oil, re-adjust the valves, change the filter then drive it easy for 10 minutes (like a cruise down the freeway), then put it under a medium load (like go up the biggest hill you have in your area) then put it under 100% load for as long as possible. This would be like towing 10K up the same steep hill at full throttle, max boost, highest gear you can get the engine into. Keep RPM's below 2500 to maintain maximum cylinder pressure.
Continue trying to keep the engine under moderate to heavy load try to keep the oil changed often enough to tell when it stops turning black. Monitor blowby. Blowby should all but stop when the oil stops turning black. This would probably be 1000 miles of driving, ideally all at once with lots of mountain passes and towing included (go on a vacation, tow your boat).
When you've gone a couple oil changes with regular oil without using any oil, blowby is gone and the oil stays clean for extended periods then switch to synthetic if wanted.
If you slapped rings in old bores just drive it, it'll never be perfect so don't worry about it.
If it's a new engine it's already broke in. Cummins engines are run in before they leave the factory. Take care of the engine, keep it loaded (i.e. don't free rev it to 3000 for 10 minutes).
If you have fresh bores, pistons, rings, cam and tappets break in the cam, dump the oil, re-adjust the valves, change the filter then drive it easy for 10 minutes (like a cruise down the freeway), then put it under a medium load (like go up the biggest hill you have in your area) then put it under 100% load for as long as possible. This would be like towing 10K up the same steep hill at full throttle, max boost, highest gear you can get the engine into. Keep RPM's below 2500 to maintain maximum cylinder pressure.
Continue trying to keep the engine under moderate to heavy load try to keep the oil changed often enough to tell when it stops turning black. Monitor blowby. Blowby should all but stop when the oil stops turning black. This would probably be 1000 miles of driving, ideally all at once with lots of mountain passes and towing included (go on a vacation, tow your boat).
When you've gone a couple oil changes with regular oil without using any oil, blowby is gone and the oil stays clean for extended periods then switch to synthetic if wanted.
If you slapped rings in old bores just drive it, it'll never be perfect so don't worry about it.
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- #392
7:40PM Friday night. Here I go with taking out the 383. Keep you fingers crossed people!
Am I the only one wondering how it went?!?!
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- #394
First, let me start off with a plea for information: Does anyone have part number for a pilot bearing? I need one for a Chevy input. Thanks.
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- #395
Start and finish for those of you that are ADD. Not really finished, but the engine is hung.
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- #396
So, like I said, I started the engine removal on Friday night, about an hour later than I wanted. I thought I could get the 383 out in 2 1/2 hours, but it was closer to three and I did the last hour on Saturday morning. One of the first things I did was the dreaded draining of the coolant. Anyone who has done it surely hopes the engineer who designed this little delight was fired or made to stand on a street corner and scream his deficiencies at the top of his lungs. Then is was about removing the wiring harness for the fuel injection and various other things.
Here is a picture of the clutch slave and the adapter that comes with the advance adapter kit. Notice the andgle that the bracket makes the piston run at. I might have to try to fix that while I'm at it.
Here is a picture of the clutch slave and the adapter that comes with the advance adapter kit. Notice the andgle that the bracket makes the piston run at. I might have to try to fix that while I'm at it.
- Thread starter
- #397
The engine is out early Saturday morning. Here is a picture of the Bell housing for Johnny. I couldn't find a casting number on it any place Johnny, sorry. but, you can see what you are looking for.Tthe third picture is of both engines, the old and the new.
- Thread starter
- #398
Isbj60 and Stevo will recognize these parts which were some of the last parts to go one the engine. Thanks guys.
Getting the engine to hang straight with the forklift was a bit of a challenge. Got chain?
Getting the engine to hang straight with the forklift was a bit of a challenge. Got chain?
I need a change of pants. More pics please.
- Thread starter
- #400
Next are the flywheel housing and the flywheel. The flywheel housing needed a fairly big hole drilled in it for the Dakota digital tach sensor.
That's my buddy, "The Professor", making a little piece to help me line up the the drill to drill the hole at the proper angle.
If you have not experienced one of these flywheels my friends...you are smart. Although, even though the darn thing weighs close to 80 pounds, it can be installed by one person. I had to use the blade of a screw driver wedged between a flywheel tooth and the flywheel housing in order to torque the flywheel bolts to spec.
That's my buddy, "The Professor", making a little piece to help me line up the the drill to drill the hole at the proper angle.
If you have not experienced one of these flywheels my friends...you are smart. Although, even though the darn thing weighs close to 80 pounds, it can be installed by one person. I had to use the blade of a screw driver wedged between a flywheel tooth and the flywheel housing in order to torque the flywheel bolts to spec.
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