Creative way to connect factory soft top to tub w/o drilling holes?

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Thanks for all the complements :D!! My dad, my mom, and my 3 sisters all helped build this. I drive it every day to my high school.

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My parking spot.

:bounce:(<-dads idea)
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Finally someone did it! This was exactly how I wanted to do it except I would have either skipped the front hoop to tied it into the dash instead of running it down to the floor.

I too would buy this in a heartbeat if it were available as kit.

Previous threads on the subject:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/423645-custom-roll-bar-cage-question-has-anyone.html

I also would buy this as a kit, that way it could be modified to exactly everyone's tastes. Looks great! Nice rig!:cheers:
 
Wow. Now that's something I'd buy instead of bows....

No kidding, that is beautiful, and got me to thinking as well.

I had planned on getting an FST, and replacing my existing cage, was thinking about the metal tech cage, but THIS definitely trumps that plan.


I smell a market waiting to be ...

I'd buy one, definitely
 
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crap.. i'm going to have to buy a tube bender now... unless someone wants to save me the trouble by making one for me hah
 
crap.. i'm going to have to buy a tube bender now... unless someone wants to save me the trouble by making one for me hah

Make a couple....

I think you should put the Metal Tech bend in the uprights at the cowl though. (or they should when they make these). :popcorn:
 
Your idea on the cage is similar to what I made for my jeep. I am curious- on the rear corners, there is typically two 45 degree bends on the standard soft top bow/uprights which do two things: (1) Gives an offset so that it can be fastened inside the tub rail (which you have alleviated) and (2) offset allows the rear and sides of the soft top to match the vertical sides and rear of the tub as a continuous line. In easier terms, look at the vehicle from the side, and the back should be completely flat from the bottom of the tub to the top of the soft top. Same with looking at it from the rear; the sides should be a continuous flat plane from the bottom of the tub to the top of the soft top. It looks like your cage does not low for continuity and so the soft top may look odd from angles (hard to see in your pics). I thought about doing it that way on my design, but I liked continuity of the soft top and sacrificed with offsetting the bows. Yours looks better without the soft top, but in my opinion, perhaps not as nice with soft top on where the top meets the tub in the rear corners. Did you eliminate the offset for this reason (asthetics)? If not, what was the reasoning? Can we see some pics with the soft top on from different angles? I am curious to see how it looks from the sides, back, and at an angle since this is a direction I considered taking, but ultimately went the other way..
 
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Nevermind, I was looking at this last night while I couldn't sleep with a tiny iphone and the brightness turned way down so as not to wake my wife. I see the answer to my question is visible in the pics. Nice work.
 
Very cool, that would be an awesome top for my dream stretched 40/43. What say ye Metaltech?
 
Not to rain on the parade surrounding the soft top frame/cage thing but...

Let me start by saying I LOVE the idea... and the execution of this is great. My concern is that it is not really a cage. I wouldn't think the tube resting on the top of the tub sides is strong enough for the cage part of the job. I would want the more typical cage structure where the tubes land on the wheel well tops and then have a frame tie-in under the tub.

I think this is very close to a perfect solution but I'd like more "cage" in the cage.

Mark
 
Not to rain on the parade surrounding the soft top frame/cage thing but...

Let me start by saying I LOVE the idea... and the execution of this is great. My concern is that it is not really a cage. I wouldn't think the tube resting on the top of the tub sides is strong enough for the cage part of the job. I would want the more typical cage structure where the tubes land on the wheel well tops and then have a frame tie-in under the tub.

I think this is very close to a perfect solution but I'd like more "cage" in the cage.

Mark

considering the stock jump seats put dents in my wheel wells I think having the weight more evenly distributed throughout the rail of the tub as well as the main supports in the b-pillar/rear of the truck make this a very strong and stout cage that will out support any regular old roll cage (that isn't tied to the frame).
 
Considering that cage is tied to the whole back half of the 40, instead of 4 (or6 if you have a family cage) points about 4" x4" I'd say it's considerably stronger than stock. (unless the body buckles on you)

If you're doing some serious 4 wheeling then Mark is right that's not the right cage for you, but for mild stuff or just around town that looks to be a lot stronger than stock at least.
 

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