Crank pulley Mod

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Vicm, Feb 18, 2009.

  1. Vicm

    Vicm

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    OK, The thing is I need a 2 groove crank pulley , to run hydrolics. I have several single groove crank pulleys.
    I am thinking to take a pulley from a complete crank pulley to make a 2 groove pulley. Is this ok , or not. Can the one I make be balanced if needed to be?
    Here is what I am thinking to do.
    Pop the rivots and seperate the H balancer from the pulley.
    Then bore the pulley hole bigger to clear the crank pulley nut.
    Pop 3 rivots from a crank pulley and bolt the 2 together.
    Thanks,
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2009
  2. FLYINGLOW

    FLYINGLOW

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    I'd say cut it off and weld it but thats without looking at one so see. I would NOT bolt it. Too much load from the belt, the bolts will work loose. IF you get the run-out to zero balancing should not be an issue. If the engine is balanced to begin with you should get the new pully balanced but I don't think the crank and flywheel will be close stock.
     
  3. malcb

    malcb

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    Just to make a double pulley - weld it.

    Not sure why bolts are not good FLYINGLOW, bolts are common on water pump pullies etc, suppose they will suffer from more vibration as welll as the load on the crank.

    I am interested because I have machined a serptine belt pulley to bolt on to the existing V pulley. I intend wiring the heads of the bolts as it would be messy if one came loose :eek:.
     
  4. FLYINGLOW

    FLYINGLOW

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    I don't think the flange of the outer pully can be bolted directly against the front of the balancer. With that much bolt length between the pulleys I think the outer one would walk around a bit and eventually loosen the bolts. If the flange of the outer pulley was bolted solid against the other pully then it wouldn't be as much of a problem. It would be nearly imposible to keep the outer one centered. Now if you made a spacer to go in the middle... that might change my opinion. Does that make sense?

    It sounds like yours was designed for the aplication you will use it in. Wire and lock tight for sure.
     
  5. Vicm

    Vicm

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    Thanks ,
    I am trying to avoid wleding might damage the H balancer.
    The rivots are only holding the H balancer to the bulley , so maybe, I could pop them all out remove the H balancer, weld things together than ,bolt the balancer back and tac the nuts to the heads. I think this a better way of doing it.
     
  6. FLYINGLOW

    FLYINGLOW

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    If you just weld 4 or 6 3/4 inch spots on the outside of the pully it won't heat the balancer much. Tack it then check run out.
     
  7. rusty_tlc

    rusty_tlc Dain Bramaged Member

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    Why not just find a two groove pulley?
     
  8. Vicm

    Vicm

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    Believe me , that would be my first choice , if they are easy to find close by. Most Everything is diesel here.
     
  9. malcb

    malcb

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    Perfect sense, good point. The spacer idea is also OK but has an odd problem that isn't easy to foresee.

    The pulley I was working with was 30 years old. There was considerable rust on it even though at first sight it was just an OK, in fact had very little wear on the seal surface. My single pulley has the pulley and the hub as one unit the HB riveted on. The component looks to have been drop forged and the pulley "face" was probably never very flat but with add the rust and it was quite out of true.

    I did run it in the lathe to square up the face - the material is hard as nails? I think it's work hardened from the manufacture process and possible a hard material anyway to prevent wear.

    I think some years are different and would come into three parts. JOEY1973 might have posted up photos?

    Anyway tack the other pulley on and weld it up slowly, little bit at a time, one side then the other and the HB should be OK, its actually quite thin steel on the pulley side and won't transfer heat well.
     
  10. Coolerman

    Coolerman SILVER Star

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    Just to widen your possibilities a bit, a FJ62 3 groove pulley will also work. It'a what I have on my 1F for power steering.
     
  11. Vicm

    Vicm

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    OK, update,
    I had the pulley removed from the H balancer. I cut the pulley shaft out.
    It looks like some type of cast.
    I have it at the engine rebuilers now. They will bore it out and then I am going to make a spacer and bolt the pullyes together with 6 bolts (spacer in between).
    I don't know if I am going to find the right size metric bolts or run a 3/8" drill bit through the holes and use 3/8" bolts. I am not welding these pulleys together.
    I had a long talk about what I am doing with the engine rebuilder and this was his advice. I am hoping to keep my cost around $40, but will see.
    The spacer will help to space the extra pulley out to the desired distance too.
    --------------------------
    Edit, Coolerman; I read your response after I posted this one. That was exactly what I was looking for , but I have not had any luck finding anything so far and if you haven't noticed , I know how to spell (Pulley) now and I have a video you would be interested in , I will send it to you soon.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2009
  12. malcb

    malcb

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    Sounds good for $40. Loctite it or wire it.
     
  13. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Are you working on a gas Land Cruiser engine, F/2F or a diesel, B/H, or????
     
  14. Vicm

    Vicm

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    It is a (78) ,2F, Steve. I use it in my tractor. I can't find any 2 groove pulley for the crank. This thing basicly does work at first and second gear, barely above idle. I need the second pulley to run a hyd pump for 3PH and plow in the front . I was considering a rear stock pto, but they won't do anything when you are in gear (moving). I was also consdering , electric over hydo, but I figure this will be better and a lot cheaper.
    I spent a lot of time looking , I just want to move ahead with this.
    This realy might be the deciding factor, the other option will be to get a 22r with a 5sp and the whole deal, but that means ,restaring almost from scratch.
    I realy want to keep the 2F, because it gives just the power that I need.
    Please give me your feed back .
     
  15. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    If it were mine, I would just get a two-row, 2F pulley and replace the single groove. That way you are not making anything custom, and it is a simple on/off procedure.
     
  16. 65swb45

    65swb45 Elder Statesman Supporting Vendor

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    IF you're comfortable with your machine shop's abilities, and they're comfortable with doing this, then I guess it's kind of like what two consenting adults do in private....none of our business. Kinda makes me wonder why you even asked our opinions?

    :meh:
     
  17. malcb

    malcb

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    Vicm did say he has tried to get one and so far nobody has sent one. Here in the UK I would struggle to find one but in the US there must be loads about, supprised nobody has offered one, I would love to see a part of mine on the tractor :).
     
  18. Vicm

    Vicm

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    Actually Poser kindly offered to sell me one, waiting on that.
    Just an adivce, if you want to send somthing small, try the local post office, I have no problem sending small parts through my local post office to the US. I guess size matters in this case.
     
  19. malcb

    malcb

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    Knew someone on MUD would offer something.

    USPS most be one of the cheapest postal services. I have had some bits posted over, if I were sending the same thing the other way I would be 3 times the cost. Royal Mail is a long way down the tube without a paddle.
     
  20. joeyg1973

    joeyg1973

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    Check out my build thread. The link is below. I broke down my 2 pulley crank into the 3 parts that make it up with pictures and measurements.
     
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