ARCHIVE Crank Pulley Holder Tool and HD Soft Shackle Recovery Points Now Available! (1 Viewer)

[BadReligion]

So I need to make some other vehicle designs as well

I'd take a 100 series specific one too (if the pulleys have different bolt patterns). My homebrew SST lasted 1 time before bending a bit, and it was 3/8" thick flat bar.

Definitely less sketchy than the bump the starter method on the 80 too.

 

[george_tlc]

Make the center hole big enough to take a socket that would fit a 32mm bolt head. S/C uses a bigger bolt head than the NA version.

This was my very quick hack from 20+ years ago when installing my S/C. Free hand controlled plasma cutting...

3/4" drive hole is a good idea while torquing back up. Some serious ft.lb goes into that crank nut.

cheers,
george.

 

[CPACruiser]

I'd take a 100 series specific one too (if the pulleys have different bolt patterns). My homebrew SST lasted 1 time before bending a bit, and it was 3/8" thick flat bar.

Definitely less sketchy than the bump the starter method on the 80 too.

Haha bump start method is always fun lol! Who doesn't love sending metal flying across the shop?

 

[FMC80]

I’ll take one too

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I'd take a 100 series specific one too (if the pulleys have different bolt patterns). My homebrew SST lasted 1 time before bending a bit, and it was 3/8" thick flat bar.

Definitely less sketchy than the bump the starter method on the 80 too.

A 2uz-specific tool already exists and works great.

Amazon product ASIN B0051XDBBG

 

[BadReligion]

A 2uz-specific tool already exists and works great.

Amazon product ASIN B0051XDBBG

Good to know! I'm hoping to not have to use one again for another 75k mi. Which at my 5000/mi a year on the 100, that may take a while.

 

[CPACruiser]

A 2uz-specific tool already exists and works great.

Amazon product ASIN B0051XDBBG

Yeah but then you're giving your pesos to Bezos instead of a fellow Cruiser enthusiast Plus, you save $15 or so my route, but either way yes that's a great tool. Had one for my 3rd gen PhoRunner

 

[flintknapper]

A 2uz-specific tool already exists and works great.

Amazon product ASIN B0051XDBBG

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Make the center hole big enough to take a socket that would fit a 32mm bolt head. S/C uses a bigger bolt head than the NA version.

This was my very quick hack from 20+ years ago when installing my S/C. Free hand controlled plasma cutting...

3/4" drive hole is a good idea while torquing back up. Some serious ft.lb goes into that crank nut.

cheers,
george.

I would be interested in a 32mm center with both 3/4” and 1/2” drive options.
How much more for powder coating option?
Message sent.

 

[bicycleagent003]

Can confirm you want a 3/4"

Source: Broke a 1/2" breaker bar

Me too.

 

[Dirt Ferguson]

If you are going to make the 'drive' sizes an option then make the standard 3/4" and offer 1/2" as the option, but folks are going to learn in a hurry that you want to use a 3/4" drive breaker bar.

I broke (2) 1/2” breaker bars with my OTRAMM tool.

Granted they were both local hardware store-brand breaker bars. Rhymes with Duracrash……

 

[CPACruiser]

I broke (2) 1/2” breaker bars with my OTRAMM tool.

Granted they were both local hardware store-brand breaker bars. Rhymes with Duracrash……

Yeah from all the feedback I have altered the drawing, standard offering is now 3/4"

 

[steveLX450]

Hey all, to all who are interested I (re)designed this last night, I want to get feedback on whether everyone is ok with the tool not fitting recessed into the pulley itself. This would strengthen up the 3/4 side the only drawback is that you'll probably want to put washers behind the tool on your bolts to fill the void between the tool and central hub of the pulley. Thoughts welcome.

To those who sent payment, I'm looking at mid next week for shipping these out.

Cheers

View attachment 2912311

Make it recess into the pulley so the plate draws up tight to the balancer, no washers between the 2

 

[CPACruiser]

Forgot to mention these will be shipping with m8-20mm bolts as well.

 

[Irish Reiver]

Make sure the center hole can accommodate a 3/4" drive 30mm socket. Mine has an OD of 45mm. I also recall that on OTRAMM's original tool that my breaker bar would not seat fully due to some interference with the crank pully design.

 

[CPACruiser]

Make sure the center hole can accommodate a 3/4" drive 30mm socket. Mine has an OD of 45mm. I also recall that on OTRAMM's original tool that my breaker bar would not seat fully due to some interference with the crank pully design.

Yeah the ID hole is 2", I made it larger to accommodate the supercharger folks

Tool is 1/2" thick to ensure better bite for the 3/4" breaker

 

[lp2k]

sign me up in 1/2 drive

 

[flintknapper]

Yeah the ID hole is 2", I made it larger to accommodate the supercharger folks

Tool is 1/2" thick to ensure better bite for the 3/4" breaker

That is perfect. The Otramm version had a 50mm center hole...and that was plenty. So yours will accommodate everything as well.

Whether using a 1/2" or 3/4" drive breaker bar...the location of the square hole is likely to result in interference with the crank pulley, it just can't be helped.

So a person shouldn't expect to be able to fully inert the breaker bar. Which is not a problem with 1/2" thick stock like you intend to use.

The Otramm version was 3/8" thick IIRC and it was possible for a breaker bar with poor tolerances to want to 'cam out'. That won't be an issue with your version. And wasn't an issue with Ryan's either... provided the breaker bar was accurate and held squarely.

Thanks for making these available.

 

[CPACruiser]

sign me up in 1/2 drive

PM sent

 

[CPACruiser]

That is perfect. The Otramm version had a 50mm center hole...and that was plenty. So yours will accommodate everything as well.

Whether using a 1/2" or 3/4" drive breaker bar...the location of the square hole is likely to result in interference with the crank pulley, it just can't be helped.

So a person shouldn't expect to be able to fully inert the breaker bar. Which is not a problem with 1/2" thick stock like you intend to use.

The Otramm version was 3/8" thick IIRC and it was possible for a breaker bar with poor tolerances to want to 'cam out'. That won't be an issue with your version. And wasn't an issue with Ryan's either... provided the breaker bar was accurate and held squarely.

Thanks for making these available.

Thank you, I truly appreciate the feedback.

I'm just happy to be able to produce something useful