Crank but No Start (Solved)

[Phallen]

Post #4 "If the engine was turning over (cranking) and the security light on console off (not blinking) with key in.

Post #13 "Again assuming your security light is off during each time you crank engine. "

IIRC: you'd said security light goes off, every time key put into IG switch.???????? If not, the fuse box may indeed be your issue. There is a jumper made for this, search mud.

The security light definitely goes off when I attempt to start it. I just came across the video while waiting for everything to come in. Thanks for clearing it up

*I also changed the title of the thread to appropriately fit the subject matter*

 

[ramangain]

Check the ground wire near the back of the engine block, top side. These are known to come loose and cause issues similar to your issue.

 

[sacman]

I think you might have a problem with the EFI relay. I had similar problem and it got worse. I dig around this amazing forum for "intermittent starting" and found the EFI issues being a very common issue. I tested mine with the trick from one of the member here and it's been working so far. In my case, the engine will crank but it refused to start despite a brandnew battery as well as starter.

EFI Relay Bypass Kit (Immobilizer Fix) for UZJ100/LX470

This bypass kit bypasses the bad EFI relay circuit in the fuse box so that the immobilizer system gets adequate power supply for starting the car. I made this for myself after my new 30A replacement fuse - initial fix for crank but not start problem, failed to start after 4 days. Some members...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[medtro]

Post #4 "If the engine was turning over (cranking) and the security light on console off (not blinking) with key in.

Post #13 "Again assuming your security light is off during each time you crank engine. "

IIRC: you'd said security light goes off, every time key put into IG switch.???????? If not, the fuse box may indeed be your issue. There is a jumper made for this, search mud.

The security light blinking check is for 1998-2002 models only.

 

[medtro]

so it happened again this morning. I was able to capture it on video. 1st video is of my LC not starting. The 2nd video is of my LC starting after I waited 10 minutes

Video 1



Video 2




Can you let me know if the videos are visible?

I think I saw check engine light ON while you cranked in the first video. If this is true, please try the troubleshoot instructions in post #117.

 

[2001LC]

The security light blinking check is for 1998-2002 models only.

Thanks @medtro. I did not know that!

What happens in the 03- if a fault in fuse box, etc with immobilizer?

 

[jerryb]

in that vid the tpms is blinking. But the CEL lighted is normal in both videos, cranking and crank+starting. The security light blinks and doesn't blink in the later years just light the early ones.
The later fuse boxes are very different. It's best to disregard the pre 03 efi and throttle, intake, cats, and o2 sensor info, among others.

 

[medtro]

I think I saw check engine light ON while you cranked in the first video. If this is true, please try the troubleshoot instructions in post #117.

I got that reversed. Do the above test if there is no check engine light. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[medtro]

Thanks @medtro. I did not know that!

What happens in the 03- if a fault in fuse box, etc with immobilizer?

Assuming the EFI fuse is in good working condition. It won't start and there is no check engine light with key at ON position.

 

[ramangain]

Check the ground wire near the back of the engine block, top side. These are known to come loose and cause issues similar to your issue.

 

[pawwright]

somewhat similar to my issue..... I eventually tracked it down (with help from mud) to the crankshaft position sensor (90919-05035), even though it tested OK per fsm.

No start condition

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[2001LC]

He's waiting on a crank sensor to arrive. He did find a DTC for it, IIRC!

The security light blinking check is for 1998-2002 models only.

Assuming the EFI fuse is in good working condition. It won't start and there is no check engine light with key at ON position.

@medtro Can you clear this up for me:

In a normal operating 03-07. I see security light blinking, until key increted into IG switch (touches gate of IG switch). IG switch (Key) turned to ON, all dash warning lights come on to indicate they're working and systems checked. Some light then go off as check completed, CEL remains on. IG turned to start, CEL stays on until engine starts.

Are you saying:
Security light will go off once key increted into IG switch, even if embolized has a fault?
CEL will not be on during starting (cranking) phase, indicating immobilizer fault?

 

[wesquire]

Will be interested to see how this turns out for PHallen, even though I'm driving a '00 TLC (bought it in '04 with 45k miles on it, still my daily driver with 260k+ miles and have no intention of parting ways). Some of the symptoms are identical to what I have been experiencing for some time now without any luck in finding the real culprit. 2001LC and others have done a tremendous service in offering input and helping narrow this down.

In the last few years, I have replaced the starter, alternator and fuel pump. Earlier this year, we replaced the CAM shaft sensor (to no avail) and then the spark plugs since it was due . . . again to no avail. By and large, I'd say i have a looooong crank before it starts. Initially, I would back off the key when it didn't turn over like it should and then turn it again and it would start. Now it seems I just let it crank until it starts - which it always has (sometimes sluggishly), but . . . . Not sure which method is doing more damage to the starter or any other part - any input is welcome. I previously had occasions where I would turn the key and the lights would all do their thing but no response from the engine bay . . . . I don't believe I have experienced that since the Cam Shaft sensor and pugs were replaced. My issue de jure is the looooong crank or crank-no start issue. I don't believe its the immobilizer issue that some with this model have - the security light always goes off when I insert the key.

As I've read through this thread I've made a few notes. (1) Fuel pump - For now, I've ruled that out, but only b/c my mechanic says they tested the pressure when they last had it for this issue and we ended up dong the CAM shaft sensor. Although replacement parts can be duds. (2) Parasitic draw on battery -not sure about this - I don't have any aftermarket accessories aside from an FM transmitter that plugs into the accessory jack so I can play tunes from my phone. I know based on the age of my battery that I'm due to replace before the cold weather gets here. (3) Neutral switch - not sure if that's for the '03 and later or could be an issue in a '00, but easy enough to try next time it doesn't fire right up. (4) Fuel Injector leakdown - this one really got my attention as I've told my mechanic multiple times that it seems like its not getting fuel. Not sure how to test this and determine if that is my problem or not. (5) Fuel Pump Relay - should be easy enough to replace if that is something a dealer always does with a fuel pump - just tired of throwing money at 'maybe' solutions . . . . ready to know what it is and that I've fixed it. (6) EFI Relay - same comment as the fuel pump relay. For what its worth, i did replace the starter relay at some point. (7) Ground at the back of the engine block on the top side - sounds easy enough to check and I'll look for that - if anyone has a pic that would be great. (8) Crank shaft position sensor - would hope that was checked when I was told that the CAM shaft sensor was faulty . . . i'm wondering whether it really was or not.

 

[wesquire]

Will be interested to see how this turns out for PHallen, even though I'm driving a '00 TLC (bought it in '04 with 45k miles on it, still my daily driver with 260k+ miles and have no intention of parting ways). Some of the symptoms are identical to what I have been experiencing for some time now without any luck in finding the real culprit. 2001LC and others have done a tremendous service in offering input and helping narrow this down.

In the last few years, I have replaced the starter, alternator and fuel pump. Earlier this year, we replaced the CAM shaft sensor (to no avail) and then the spark plugs since it was due . . . again to no avail. By and large, I'd say i have a looooong crank before it starts. Initially, I would back off the key when it didn't turn over like it should and then turn it again and it would start. Now it seems I just let it crank until it starts - which it always has (sometimes sluggishly), but . . . . Not sure which method is doing more damage to the starter or any other part - any input is welcome. I previously had occasions where I would turn the key and the lights would all do their thing but no response from the engine bay . . . . I don't believe I have experienced that since the Cam Shaft sensor and pugs were replaced. My issue de jure is the looooong crank or crank-no start issue. I don't believe its the immobilizer issue that some with this model have - the security light always goes off when I insert the key.

As I've read through this thread I've made a few notes. (1) Fuel pump - For now, I've ruled that out, but only b/c my mechanic says they tested the pressure when they last had it for this issue and we ended up dong the CAM shaft sensor. Although replacement parts can be duds. (2) Parasitic draw on battery -not sure about this - I don't have any aftermarket accessories aside from an FM transmitter that plugs into the accessory jack so I can play tunes from my phone. I know based on the age of my battery that I'm due to replace before the cold weather gets here. (3) Neutral switch - not sure if that's for the '03 and later or could be an issue in a '00, but easy enough to try next time it doesn't fire right up. (4) Fuel Injector leakdown - this one really got my attention as I've told my mechanic multiple times that it seems like its not getting fuel. Not sure how to test this and determine if that is my problem or not. (5) Fuel Pump Relay - should be easy enough to replace if that is something a dealer always does with a fuel pump - just tired of throwing money at 'maybe' solutions . . . . ready to know what it is and that I've fixed it. (6) EFI Relay - same comment as the fuel pump relay. For what its worth, i did replace the starter relay at some point. (7) Ground at the back of the engine block on the top side - sounds easy enough to check and I'll look for that - if anyone has a pic that would be great. (8) Crank shaft position sensor - would hope that was checked when I was told that the CAM shaft sensor was faulty . . . i'm wondering whether it really was or not.

failed to mention that I think temperature could be a contributing factor. Seems to act up more when hot as the door lock actuators do.

 

[medtro]

@medtro Can you clear this up for me:

In a normal operating 03-07. I see security light blinking, until key increted into IG switch (touches gate of IG switch). IG switch (Key) turned to ON, all dash warning lights come on to indicate they're working and systems checked. Some light then go off as check completed, CEL remains on. IG turned to start, CEL stays on until engine starts.

Are you saying:
Security light will go off once key increted into IG switch, even if embolized has a fault?

CEL will not be on during starting (cranking) phase, indicating immobilizer fault?

Assuming we are talking about this My immobilizer fix regarding immobilizer. Fault in EFI circuit in 1998-2002 models triggered blinking security light, hence immobilizer problem. Fixing the EFI circuit takes care of the immobilizer issue. It is not the same for 2003-2004 that I have looked at, immobilizer gets its own power supply. Fault in EFI circuit will not cause blinking security light. CEL light not ON indicates EFI circuitry issue.

 

[wesquire]

Assuming we are talking about this My immobilizer fix regarding immobilizer. Fault in EFI circuit in 1998-2002 models triggered blinking security light, hence immobilizer problem. Fixing the EFI circuit takes care of the immobilizer issue. It is not the same for 2003-2004 that I have looked at, immobilizer gets its own power supply. Fault in EFI circuit will not cause blinking security light. CEL light not ON indicates EFI circuitry issue.

Yeah, I don't think I have an immobilizer issue based on our prior correspondence so I haven't taken the plunge on replacing the EFI realy just yet.

I would be interested in anyone's thoughts on how to check for fuel injector leakdown or whether they symptoms point to a fuel pump relay. My mind goes more to the injectors since it will sometimes start sluggishly after letting it crank. My understanding of a relay is that its either off/on open/closed and I wouldn't think that once it flips that it would result in a sluggish start.

If a leaky injectors, does that impact all of them or would a single injector trigger the symptoms?

 

[2001LC]

Excessive fuel injector leak down:

The "sign" would be long crank after extended period of setting (engine off). With faster start up after recent shut down.

One line of thinking is: Just one bad, and fuel rail pressure may drop. Than it takes extra cranks to bring pressure back up.

 

[wesquire]

Excessive fuel injector leak down:

The "sign" would be long crank after extended period of setting (engine off). With faster start up after recent shut down.

One line of thinking is: Just one bad, and fuel rail pressure may drop. Than it takes extra cranks to bring pressure back up.

Thanks for the input! That sounds like what I may be battling here. I can’t think of a time where off hand where it would present the symptom of a long crank when restarting soon after the engine was killed. It doesn’t happen every time where it has set idle for a while, which is confusing to me. It does seem that heat - as in external temp- plays a factor. Could that make a leaky injector release whatever fuel it’s supposed to hold happen faster?

 

[2001LC]

Not likely heat causing increase leak down. It could but not likely. I say this because, things expand and tighten with heat.

 

[ramangain]

Chiming in late, but are you comfy replacing your injectors? Get some Amazon cheapos and throw them in there and get your OEM ones serviced. If the issue stops, the OEM rebuilds should outlast the truck when you swap them back in.