No doubt in this case it's operator error. ;p
Cracked block (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rsbcruiser
- Start date
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No doubt in this case it's operator error. ;p
vtcruiser60
SILVER Star
Careful what you wish for......
Now I know what I want to do when I retire.....fill cracks.....LOL
Might be fairly profitable!
Jim
Might be fairly profitable!
Jim
Did you check out the repair they did to a block that had the crack welded? They cut out the welded piece and stitched in a steel patch plate.
Dave, This sounds like the job for you:
http://www.locknstitch.com/Repair pdf files/Custom truck with cracked 5.9 block.pdf
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #25
Stitched blocks and pounding the heck out of things sounds great fun but acedemikle speakin, there are people round these parts who can weld her up right. If I were willing to endure ANOTHER arggg engine rebuild, would hot weld and rebuild be the best way to go? Is hot weld sure fire is I guess what I'm asking? Willing to go a step further for this block (worse come to worse, hold baby hold).
I think we may be beyond that, now. But that would have been the way to go at one point.
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #27
Repair failed. After a couple weeks and much driving the jbweld and block sealer failed. I now have to decide what to do next. The muggyweld sounds problematic. I am thinking I will have to yank it and have the block welded. I sure like the stitching idea. No experience there. Is it easy? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
The stitching is pretty easy if you are OK at drilling and tapping. The one thing you can tell from the picture is you have plenty of room to work. The repair tool set comes with a drilling jig, drill, tap and counter sink tool. You can drill, face and tap about a hole in 1-2 min using pneumatic tools and there are about 8-10 pins per inch.
They have a more detailed description of the repair process on the web site, but it is drill, countersink, tap, plug, grind and repeat interlocking rows of pins until done and it passes a pressue test. Some machine shops will do this type of repair on a fee based on how long the crack is.
They have a more detailed description of the repair process on the web site, but it is drill, countersink, tap, plug, grind and repeat interlocking rows of pins until done and it passes a pressue test. Some machine shops will do this type of repair on a fee based on how long the crack is.
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #29
Pinhead! how can I thank you? Dude you have been a great help. I was checking out the web site asking myself the questions you just answered. I am excited about this one. Looks as though it is a can do. Wondering about chips falling into the water jacket though. Probably another wierd Engineer twitch thing. I am thinking they rust to dust and don't interfere with water pump function. Guys at stitch makers will probably straighten me out tommorrow. I have to save her! That chunk of steel was sitting on my mechanics bench ready for him the next day when he passed away in his bed. He was alot of help to me over the years. Even though he was Portlands' HEMI oldschool guy THE GUY, he always had the time to talk WW II aircraft and engines, People would come into his shop........I swear, never saw so many old rednecks almost hug a guy. Anyways, here is what that engine means to me. Got a 55? Did you see my Door hinge rebuild thread? Send me a set and I will rebuild for shipping cost how about?
How does one deal with the cuttings and debris that remains on the back side I don't think I would want that crap making its way into my radiator...
I don't think I would want that crap making its way into my radiator...
How does one deal with the cuttings and debris that remains on the back side
Gano radiator and heater filter.
If you have ever seen the junk that accumulates in your water jacket you wouldn't be worried about a few more pieces of cast iron, but it you are worried about it flush it. It would be a different issue if you wee drilling into the oil system.
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #33
Ya, I didn't get the engine hot tanked before rebuilding it myself. Replaced the freeze plugs (the SOR kit, those are the way!). Surprised though, it was fairly clean in there. I ordered from Lock-N-Stitch 30 L6AS Pins, 2 of their drills, their tap and sealant. I believe the cost will be around seventy dollars. Comes Monday. I might hold off pending a decision on new headers, thinking the Downey 6 into 1s'. sure hatin the old cheapy headers, another really bad decision.
Take some pictures. If it owrks, you might want to post a write up on the process. It has been a long time since I did this stuff in class and we never pressure tested our work.
These pins are also very useful for making high strenght welding repairs to cast iron parts and for making high strength welds to cast iron surfaces. Basically you just install a grid of pins spaced about 1/4 inch apart where you want to make a weld, then you butter over the heads of the pins with high nickle rod and then you just weld anything on that you want by any normal welding process. The grid of treaded pins or screws provides the mechanical strenght that just welding onto cast iron will never achieve.
These pins are also very useful for making high strenght welding repairs to cast iron parts and for making high strength welds to cast iron surfaces. Basically you just install a grid of pins spaced about 1/4 inch apart where you want to make a weld, then you butter over the heads of the pins with high nickle rod and then you just weld anything on that you want by any normal welding process. The grid of treaded pins or screws provides the mechanical strenght that just welding onto cast iron will never achieve.
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #35
I am assuming you are preheating the block here? Sounds like a good idea. You end up with a zigzag weld affect, Is that the goal? makes sense to me. Hey, ever hear about those WW II nickle steel American gasoline straight sixes in trucks? Had a good talk to Guy at Stitch-n-Lock. Says welding cast is easy as pie, only sweat temp control heat and cool down. No news to you I'm sure, to me O YA, carbon distribution must remain constant. heat one place and not another, carbon molecules pack up head for party at temp boundary. Hangover, big time brittle bunch there next morn. Zigzag temp diffusion adds to above mechanical advantage, sorta like a temp boundary prism? Hum, gets a guy to thinkin maybe why he is a thinkin this stuff.
No.
The use of stitching pins in cast iron welding is for large parts and things that can't easily be preheated to 900F and cooled slowly. Basically it disregards the problem with iron carbide precipitation in the heat affected area by installing a grid of screws that extend through the brittle zone and into unaffected nodular or grey iron. Then the other part is just welded to the top of the screws. The screws act like tree roots to keep weldment anchored. It works for when you need to weld something to cast iron and have about the same strenght as the base metal.
The use of stitching pins in cast iron welding is for large parts and things that can't easily be preheated to 900F and cooled slowly. Basically it disregards the problem with iron carbide precipitation in the heat affected area by installing a grid of screws that extend through the brittle zone and into unaffected nodular or grey iron. Then the other part is just welded to the top of the screws. The screws act like tree roots to keep weldment anchored. It works for when you need to weld something to cast iron and have about the same strenght as the base metal.
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #37
OK, think I've got it. Just can't stop till It makes sense. Puzzle over options, worst case scenarios. Sounds as though I will have a third non-yank option. Going to hunt down some #29 110deg twist drills (stubbies), bought some regular length from s-n-l asked if they were stubbies, Guy says "stubbies?"thinking they will be a better option since I didn't buy the kit, thus no drill-guide. Might be mute after wet/dry comp. and leakdown. Hoping bottom end is fine, thinking I hosed myself with following lineup, Domney springs (those suckers are strong!) loading reground rebushed rockers, new rocker bar, new pushrod nuts, original pushrods and man a fre cheap lifters. thinking go back all Toyota lifters new rods and rockers. Pin_head, think it ok to drop new Toy. lifters on to ny 5000 mile Downey cam? New Downey 6-1 for sure! Me an ol cheapos have a meatin of the mind coming up, thinkin of inviting my ol pal the 3 pound. Oh ya tons questions, Went 2.5Ex. to back, der, thinking of going 2" from new header th old muffler, good idea? low end torque and fuel eco. major goals.
I don't see the point of swapping lifters unless you know they are bad. I'm not a big fan of trying to squeeze more power out of a 2F. I'm OK with the tractor motor as is. More power requires burning more fuel and there isn't anything you can do about the thermodynamics of pushing a 5,000 pound brick through the air.
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #39
IDK Pin_head, I just don't like the lifter to pushrod interface on those man-a-fres cheap lifters. There has to be a reason for the valve gap growth issue, don't believe that 0.02" or more is breakin. At least one toast valve because of these things. Done so many times pro at it. At times I'd check and there was no gap! Getting answers today. Thinkin I have two three threads here. You follow along, slap me down when wrong. So they are correct. You get a correct future reference, I finally get it right, guid pro quo? One thread, "Big Jim, just say ya" method of valve adjust, with each hole at TDC when setting valves. You are a do um running guy , right?
vtcruiser60
SILVER Star
I am not sure where you are with trying a repair on this cracked block, but I would save yourself the time and money on this faulty repair and swap the block. I went down this road of welding up a large crack in the block and wish I hadn't. I vote for picking up a short block and going that route.....
