Cooling a V8 with AC, my solution.....

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Cooling a V8 with AC, my solution.....new radiator

I decided to do a little write up on my radiator upgrade that I am currently working on. After installing AC last summer I had had some issues with water temps while sitting in traffic on hot days. So I decided to change out the radiator and try to solve the issue once and for all. With the AC condenser up front it left very little room for a transmission cooler, so I decided I wanted the new radiator to have an internal transmission cooler. I also wanted at least 1.25” internal rows to allow for better cooling. I measured the opening and decided that a 26” x 19” radiator would work well. After doing a lot of research I ended up ordering a Griffin GRI-1-85222-T radiator.

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Obviously this radiator would not work in the factory u support so I had to construct a new mounting system. I picked up 2 six foot pieces of 2” angle iron that is 1/8” thick to make a “u” that the radiator would fit in and a 3” wide ¼” flat bar for the top plate.

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Once the angle iron was cut and tacked together I had to figure out how big the feet needed to be to position the radiator at the proper height.

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While I had the front off and access I wanted to add enough room for a third pulley on the crank to allow for power steering in the future. In order to accomplish this I needed a ½” spacer between the water pump and fan. I called all the local sources and no one had one. My dad said, ‘I think I had one that I tried on my 57 Chevy years ago, I bet it’s around here somewhere.” 30 minutes later, he returned with this.

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After 42 years he still had it and was able to locate it. I was shocked! Thanks dad! Popped it and now I have enough clearance to run a triple crank pulley. I wanted to be able to isolate the radiator in the support bracket to cut down on vibrations. I used 1/8” and ¼” rubber to do this so there is no metal to metal contact. This is a picture of the engine side of the bracket with the top plate installed.

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I used some 2.5” square tubing and ¼” plate to build feet for the radiator to sit on. I am using ½” thick shock absorber rubber washers to isolate the bracket from the frame.

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I used 3/8” steel rod to replicate the factory supports to add strength on both sides.

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This is a front shot that shows the front bib in place. You can see the tabs I tacked in place to mount the condenser to. It leaves a 3/8” between the condenser and radiator which I think will work great. The tabs were made from 1/8” material and tapped to accommodate the fasteners for the condenser.

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I ran out of time and had to head back to school today so I will have to finish it next weekend. I still have to add a bracket for the dryer and address mounting for the horns and the fj60 overflow tank. Then I can finish all the weld s and concentrate on the shroud. Then a little paint and I can try it out. I will add more pictures this weekend as I make more progress. Thanks
 
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Great looking fab work! Quick question, what alternator and compressor mount are you using there? I like how they fit. Are you using a long water pump or a short one? (Sorry about the questions, I'm looking into adding AC to my rig and have never seen how to mount a compressor like that...

Cheers!
 
what did the Toyota emblem come from and how did you mount it?

also please show some detailed pics on how you mounted your alternator and AC compressor.
 
Great looking fab work! Quick question, what alternator and compressor mount are you using there? I like how they fit. Are you using a long water pump or a short one? (Sorry about the questions, I'm looking into adding AC to my rig and have never seen how to mount a compressor like that...

Cheers!

Thanks, I am running a short water pump. The brackets I am using are the extra clearance brackets from alan grove components inc. The alternator is the 200L-ALT and the compressor is the 200R-AC.

Small Block Chevy

I already was using the alternator bracket and loved it when I ordered the vintage air unit last summer. At that time vintage air used alan grove to supply their brackets (i assume they still do, but not sure) so it worked out perfect for me. I will be using there 400L-Power steering pump when I add that on. The brackets come as raw metal so you can finish them as you choose. I have been very happy with them and recommend them. There are various positions for engine placement with a v8 swap, these work great for me, but make sure you have clearance in your application.
 
what did the Toyota emblem come from and how did you mount it?

also please show some detailed pics on how you mounted your alternator and AC compressor.


The emblem came off a 2005 (i think) Highlander. I used jb weld to attach 2 short pieces of threaded rod to the back of the emblem. Then used bolts to attach it to the front screen. I will take pics of the brackets when I get home this weekend and post them up.
 
Ok, I got the radiator housing and shroud finished up last weekend. I made the frame for the shroud out of ½” square tubing. This allowed me to use 4 points to mount it and keep it tight to the radiator. The rest of the shroud is a fj40 shroud that I cut up and welded to the frame. It worked out well. I have no more than a 1/32” gap between the shroud and radiator. The bottom front of the fan is ½” from the radiator and the top front is 1” away. The shroud has 1” clearance between the perimeter of the fan blades and the shroud. The fan sits inside or slightly out the shroud depending on clearance I needed for belts and harmonic balancer. I used a FJ60 overflow tank. After all this work, I am still having issues with overheating at idle. It cools like a dream going down the highway, but will start to climb sitting still. I am not getting enough airflow at idle. Unfortunately, I only have 2.25” clearance between the front of the water pump pulley and the radiator, so an electric fan is not an option. So, I ordered a flowcooler water pump because they claim to flow more at idle and a solid 17” FLX-1617P fan. I will get these installed this weekend and see how it works out.
Here are some pictures; any ideas on how to improve this are more than welcome.

Front emblem mounts.
10e0ta8.jpg


Radiator in frame condenser side
35d1g6v.jpg


Radiator in frame engine side
102mosz.jpg


Shroud
234lf6.jpg


Shroud installed
2i0et89.jpg


Installed, front bib down
25tvvd2.jpg


Flowcooler water pump and new fan
2uiayyr.jpg
 
Thanks for sharing...pls. update us on the FLOW KOOLER waterpump if it improves the cooling at idle....:cheers:
 
one suggestion for moving more air...

I used a ~19" 7 blade fan from a 80's full size GM car ( Caddy, Blazer, Caprice, etc) with a thermal clutch fan. I have the Hayden #2729 which is for a '84 C3500, 454, auto w/ AC. It will suck rocks up off the garage floor at idle and disengages nicely to reduce noise and increase fuel economy going down the road. https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/90608-gm-fan-clutch.html and tech contest-cooling a V8 - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

Nice fab work and creativity BTW.
 
Good write up and nice work cronic. Can't wait to see how well it works. I'll need to do something like this when I drop my 6.2 diesel into my 40.
 
one suggestion for moving more air...

I used a ~19" 7 blade fan from a 80's full size GM car ( Caddy, Blazer, Caprice, etc) with a thermal clutch fan. I have the Hayden #2729 which is for a '84 C3500, 454, auto w/ AC. It will suck rocks up off the garage floor at idle and disengages nicely to reduce noise and increase fuel economy going down the road. https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/90608-gm-fan-clutch.html and tech contest-cooling a V8 - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

Nice fab work and creativity BTW.


I had a 19" clutch setup off a 77 chevy truck that was way to deep. What is the total depth of the hayden thermal clutch fan? Its gotta fit in a 2.25" space.....:frown:
 
are you saying you only have 2 1/4" from the fan mounting flange on the waterpump to the fins of the radiator?

If so you got very few options. I know the Hayden TC I have is longer than that. Plus you gotta leave some room for clearance between the 2. Can you move your radiator forward to give you more room? What about going to short waterpump?
 
are you saying you only have 2 1/4" from the fan mounting flange on the waterpump to the fins of the radiator?

If so you got very few options. I know the Hayden TC I have is longer than that. Plus you gotta leave some room for clearance between the 2. Can you move your radiator forward to give you more room? What about going to short waterpump?

Yep, 2.25 between the rad and front of a short water pump. I know, very tight. :frown: That's with the the rad, condenser and front bib as far forward as I can go. I would love to do a mark 8 electric fan and be done with it, but space is such a limiting factor in my install.
 
that's either one thick-ass radiator or whoever located your engine doesn't know how to follow directions. Looks like you are going to have to learn to live with a solid fan or figure out a way to fit a a very thin electric fan that moves a lot of air.
 
that's either one thick-ass radiator or whoever located your engine doesn't know how to follow directions. Looks like you are going to have to learn to live with a solid fan or figure out a way to fit a a very thin electric fan that moves a lot of air.


I would be the culprit who put it so far forward. I did it many years ago before I had access to all the great information that is around today. Oh well, as for a thin electric, I have had no luck sourcing a thin fan that will move any air. Looks like a solid fan is it, hopefully it will get the job done at idle. I guess I will find out very soon..........

Here are pics of the engine side:
25ew8d3.jpg


2upg27m.jpg
 
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is that a short waterpump? If so I would seriously consider moving things rearward.

Your shifter modifications have GOT to be creative! Show me a pic of the transcover/shifter/heater taken from inside the truck.
 
is that a short waterpump? If so I would seriously consider moving things rearward.

Your shifter modifications have GOT to be creative! Show me a pic of the transcover/shifter/heater taken from inside the truck.


Yep, its a short water pump. I will see if I can dig up a picture of the transfer case shifter mod without the tub on. All I did was cut off the tc shifter and used a piece of 1" square bar stock that was approx (6-7"???) long to extend it forward to the factory opening. Here is an interior picture.

3177hvd.jpg
 
nice truck from what I see. did you paint the steering column and lower dash pads with gloss paint? are those some type of molded door bottom to hold the speakers?
 

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