Continuing Sealed Beam Headlight problems

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Found a nice picture of a H4 bulb (and much more interesting info) in this Hella catalog:
http://www.hella.com/hella-za/assets/media_global/HASA_Bulbs_Catalogue_2012_LRes.pdf
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Also some nice reading stuff about head lights, patterns, regulations,...... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headlamp



Rudi
 
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The only modification is that I added 4 relays (every beam has his own relay) very close (on the inside fender) to the headlights.
Reason is that I don't like that the full current goes from the battery, firewall, fuse block, headlight switch, dimmer switch, firewall to the headlights.
The (in my opinion) too small wiring combined with all the connectors and switches is causing a voltage drop.

Now the current goes from battery, in line fuse, relay, to headlight(s). Total length: 2 1/2 feet.
Almost no noticeable dimming at idle but I live in the tropics and don't have a heater running. I also don't have A/C so I don't know how this works out for you but at idle my OEM alternator is still charging 13Volts and 1 or 2 Amps. Hard to read on the Ammeter but the needle is just off the center line.

I'm a big fan of re-wiring with a relay for heavy current users. I did the same with the horns. Wow.... they are loud now!

Rudi
I agree with Pin Head and Rudi. I can't imagine how a sealed beam headlight could be made for different drive vehicles, they are pretty stupid design and you adjust what is holding the bulb. Ditto on the relays. Somewhere on here (probably the complete rewire) I attached a link regarding the effect of standard wiring vs relay wiring for headlights. Very informative, accurate, and actually a piece of cake to incorporate. So I split my loom after cowl exit to left and right sides of the vehicle. The left side relays are powered off the alternator and the right side off of the battery. No issues or problems. However, I should note that I rarely drive at night here in Ecuador. Not afraid of it, just don't have cause to do so much. But they are just standard old headlights and work quite well. It has been about a year since I completely rewired the vehicle using an American AutoWire Hwy 15 kit. I went with AutoMeter Z gauges and trailer lights in a new bumper I fabricated. Zero issues with my wiring in the nearly year (March 15, 2014) licensing, about 7,000 miles.

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I already get the impression they're superior to any lights I've ever run before WS. But I really need to run them for a good while before trying to give a valid report. (I would be extremely surprised if I end up taking a hammer to them! :lol:).....................I'll get the best idea of how my Cibies perform when I'm back driving on the open road where there's no street lighting. Then I'm sure I'll observe much better low-beam and high-beam patterns and be able to tweak them back up to point at a more normal level..................Right now I don't see the point in burning up fuel just for the sake of trialing & adjusting my lights so it'll have to wait until the next time I need to go to on a decent night trip......Could be as long as 3 months away ....:meh:

Well a couple of days ago I drove right through most of the night. That's 7 1/2 hours of solid driving while trying to maintain the open-road speed limit (which is 100 kph here in New Zealand) for most of the time because I was in a hurry (and with severe clutch problems, was trying to avoid EVER having to stop ... but that's another story).

Anyway ... I can now finally report (after this very thorough 500+ km night-time test) that my new Cibies are nothing short of supurb!!!:):)

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Sometimes I was even forgetting to return to high beam as a result of seeing so well on dip. (And remember that this was in the middle of the night on a mixture of straight and winding roads with ABSOLUTELY NO form of street lighting and with very little in the way of moon-lighting).

At the same time, when on dip (and very much unlike the sealed beams I've recently purchased) there was absolutely no tendency to dazzle oncoming traffic (with absolutely no one choosing to "flash me" through mistaking my low beam to be high-beam).

Note: These lights are still pointed "downwards to the max" via the screw-adjustment. (This is something I did for the previous poor-quality sealed beams to stop dazzling oncoming traffic while on dip.) So much so, that winding out the top screws any more would make the Cibies liable to "wobble" through lack-of-spring-tension in the system that's used to hold them in position in the bib. Furthermore, I saw no need to raise them (even though it's clear I'm no longer dazzling oncoming traffic with these better quality lights) because my low beam reach is now (even with this lowest-possible aim) allowing me to drive at 100kph on dip in a very relaxed manner. (That is, it allows me to drive on dip without fearing I can't stop within the length of road I can see in front of me and without fearing I may miss something entering my path from the side, such as a wandering large animal.)

And when I do put these Cibies on high-beam ..... well .... hell... - the light is so long, wide and powerfull that I'd have to be silly to ever think of fitting anything in the way of additional lighting. (It was actually so strong that whenever it hit a large traffic sign I was tempted to dip just to reduce the glare!)

So it's sure nice to report that while other things are going pear-shaped for me, at least my Cibie lighting upgrade is a resounding success!!
 
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I bought a pair of Cebie high beam bulbs and agree their quality is excellent.

I've been running H4 Hella 7" bulbs in my 40 for 22 years, and they'll put many new cars lights to shame. I would recomend running relays, and they can be installed without cutting into the original wiring... 12 v at the lights isn't much compared to the 14.5v at the alternator.
 

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