Daily Half hour commute - get a 100.... or keep the tacoma and get a lexus sedan or toyota avalon....
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Why 200 won't need a steering rack?100s are older especially 98 vs early 200s and a 200 won’t need a steering rack or timing belt
I believe it is a different design. I think steering rack replacement is unique to the 100Why 200 won't need a steering rack?
Not true. Plenty of 200 series have needed new racks; e.g., Removing steering rack - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/removing-steering-rack.1091656/#post-14030154I think steering rack replacement is unique to the 100
With extended travel IMS I get 24.75" of droop. I've not had any desire for more. I get good flex from the rear. I've found trails in Colorado to be more like the ones in Newton County than the rocky ledges in Johnson County. I do like having the option to change the front ride height with the turn of an adjuster bolt. To me having a short turning radius is a plus for Colorado switchbacks. The 100 does well in this area considering a comfortable 17-hour ride to and from AR to Silverton.Yea most of the trails I do are pretty mild, so I'm hoping the IFS will hold up decently well. At least a rack for a Tacoma isn't crazy expensive. I think the little Tacoma really shines on those type of narrow tracks out in the woods. We don't have as many rocky hardcore trails out here like up in Colorado, which is where a beefier Land Cruiser excels IMO. Apparently the IFS on the 1G Taco/3G4R doesn't hold up very well in settings with more constant traction i.e. Moab, Johnson Valley, etc. (Having said that, I am planning on doing Stony Pass and maybe Pearl Pass this summer). The torsion bar setup on the 100 might not be the flexiest, but it does seem to be pretty durable: not far behind the solid axle on the 80 series I'd say, at least as far as the CVs/Birfs.
My 97 LC wasn't as lithe out on the trails around here. It didn't seem to like mud, clay, or wet slopes very much. But I did have the feeling that it would hold up much better to prolonged abuse on rough roads than my current Tacoma. In a way, it's sort of a balancing act between durability and maneuverability. A twin locked 80 might be the sweet spot, but mine had open diffs. I felt like the big 80 really needed locker to heave itself up some obstacles, whereas the Tacoma was light enough to "send it", if that makes any sense.
I bet it can actually get out of its own way up on the passes also, unlike an 80 series or 1G Tacoma.I do need to watch for 100 on the highway for speeding tickets. It will sit up and roll.
I've had 4L regeared with the Transfer case 25% reduction Sumo gear set. It helps to keep me from riding the brakes and gives me more power on a climb. Then if I need more speed on the trail, I use the 2nd gear start and drive around in 2nd. It's only choosing the right gear set.I bet it can actually get out of its own way up on the passes also, unlike an 80 series or 1G Tacoma.
The Hundy is a very nice ride. The improvement over an 80 in the driving experience is noticeably greater than 80 over 60 series.I'd like to drive one locally to see how I like it. I may end up just learning to love the Tacoma. It's great out on the trails, but its highway manners (or lack thereof) are starting to wear on me.
I get the feeling that the newer IFS Land Cruiser are more reliable than the older models, but perhaps less durable and simple to work on. When they do go wrong, it seems like they can be more expensive and difficult to fix, and aren’t designed to be limped home or fail “positively” i.e. brake booster failure will just cause a hard pedal in the 80 vs. loss of braking after one stop in a 100. However, they are less likely to develop 10 different leaks, warp the head, need axle rebuild every 60k, etc. I would think a steering rack would be cheaper and easier to deal with than the steering box in the 80, however.The Hundy is a very nice ride. The improvement over an 80 in the driving experience is noticeably greater than 80 over 60 series.
Easier to work on than an 80? I've heard the opposite. Keep the Taco if you want to save money and have any use for a truck bed at all.
Yea I’d guess it’s probably about the same on maintenance as a 3.4 Tacoma of the same age, mileage, and service history, but parts for 100 are probably more expensive. Then there’s the AHC variable if it has that.The weight of the 100 will be very noticeable in comparison to the Taco. Since you are wondering about mud, I can say I really don't like driving it in mud (IH8MUD). That is probably due to my desire to run AT tires over a committed MT since the 100 is my daily driver.
For what it's worth, my 99 still has the 2 spider gear diff at 377k miles. I don't care what others say, a high mileage 100 is a total maintenance whore! But it is totally worth it.
About the same tbh… and Pulling the 80 box is easier than pulling the 100 steering rack IMO.I would think a steering rack would be cheaper and easier to deal with than the steering box in the 80, however.
I saw this thread last week and haven't had time to reply, but hopefully this is helpful.After going from a 97 Land Cruiser to a 96 Tacoma, I am regretting giving up all the interior space. and durability of a Land Cruiser, and am also looking for something better suited to a daily half-hour commute, while also perhaps being more resistant to frame rust when driven in wintry conditions.
I'm also considering a GX470, but am leaning towards a 100 series for the stronger 9.5" rear diff, the extra space, and the availability of a rear locker in the 98-99 models. However, I could be swayed toward the GX since they seem to command lower prices compared to the UZJ100.
However, I had a few concerns. I'd heard of issues with the ATRAC overloading the R&P on the front diffs, even in light snow. I'd prefer the 98-99 models for this reason; I prefer the idea of a rear locker instead, even if they do have the weaker front diffs from the factory (I figure most of those would be replaced by now?) Is there any insight on this issue? I figured maybe a front LSD would help as well..
Also, how do they compare with an 80 series in wintry conditions, in terms of performance and rust-resistance?
Will it be too big and ungainly for the narrow muddy tracks we have here in northwest Arkansas? My 80 series seemed to get bogged down relatively easily in these conditions with open diffs where a lighter Tacoma would crawl through easily.
Finally, is the usual (deferred) maintenance/baselining process less expensive and painstaking than that of an FZJ80? From what I've researched, they seem to have sealed bearings, obviating the obligatory front axle rebuilds on the 80 series, and the 2UZ doesn't seem to need top-end rebuilds every 200k like the 1fz; however, they do appear to have their own quirks, like cracked manifolds, etc.
Anyway, I'm sorry for the long-winded post, but I'd appreciate any insights on any of this from current owners. Thanks.
Yeah I should have clarified, I should've said not stock to stock, but factoring in aftermarket things like UCAs (which make little difference in 100 compared to others) and then like you said ability to LT.Barely. I don’t remember the exact numbers but it’s something like 7.8” front travel for the 100 and 8.2” front travel for the GX/4Runner/FJC/Prado/Taco…BUT, you can actually long-travel the 120/150s, whereas you can’t do much to increase 100 travel.