Considering replacing my 96 Tacoma with a 100 series (1 Viewer)

[SaturnAscends]

My experience with a high mileage 99 that I got 3 years ago and haven’t been able to get alot done on, here’s some maintenance to look out for:

Front wheel bearings
Front cv axle boot rips
Steering rack
Power steering pump leaking
Power steering soft hoses leaking (These will cause alternator to fail)
Serpentine tensioner
Radiator browning
Heater hose t’s
Soft transmission cooler lines
Metal transmission cooler lines behind grill rusting out
Spare tire carrier rusting out
Rear crossmember frame rust
Third row ac leak
Windshield cracks
Driver window switches not working
Valve cover gaskets leaking
Uhh ripped leather seats

So no, not a top end rebuild but still plenty to do

I’m guessing you must live in the salt belt. But anyway yea that sounds like a lot of the common 90s Toyota stuff, only I’d guess it’s more expensive on the LC than a Tacoma, for instance.

Would you say it’s easier to work on than an 80 series? It sounds like it’d be cost-prohibitive to hire out all that work to a mechanic.

Thanks.

 

[krice118]

I’m curious what makes you say that; is it the 5-speed transmission?

Yes. We have a 2004 in the extended family and I’m the 5 speed is a game changer. That being said I live my non nav and dial climate controls…

 

[J1000]

The Tacoma, 4Runner, and GX470 all share basically the same suspension and a lot of drivetrain parts. So if you trade your Taco for one of those you're getting the same truck basically but different engine and interior. 100 is much beefier all around.

As far as maintenance the 100 is in a class of it's own. I just keep putting miles on mine. 286k and not a drop of oil burning or leaking.

I wheel the crap out of my truck, haven't touched the front diff except to change the oil.

Be prepared to burn a lot of gas if you daily drive one, though.

 

[SaturnAscends]

The Tacoma, 4Runner, and GX470 all share basically the same suspension and a lot of drivetrain parts. So if you trade your Taco for one of those you're getting the same truck basically but different engine and interior. 100 is much beefier all around.

As far as maintenance the 100 is in a class of it's own. I just keep putting miles on mine. 286k and not a drop of oil burning or leaking.

I wheel the crap out of my truck, haven't touched the front diff except to change the oil.

Be prepared to burn a lot of gas if you daily drive one, though.

I have a 96, so it’s a different IFS design. Not very beefy, but it’s nice and light for getting into the woods.

That’s weird how some front diffs failed just in light snow, and then others like yours hold up to sustained abuse over years.
Maybe there was just a bad batch with some kind of manufacturing defect?

 

[J1000]

I have a 96, so it’s a different IFS design. Not very beefy, but it’s nice and light for getting into the woods.

That’s weird how some front diffs failed just in light snow, and then others like yours hold up to sustained abuse over years.
Maybe there was just a bad batch with some kind of manufacturing defect?

I have a later year 100 which do have tougher diffs than the early years, but still not unbreakable.

A lot of it just comes down to how the truck is driven. It's got a V8. If you try you can definitely break things really easily. If you have mechanical sympathy it will live a lot longer.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Does your 352k mile 80 burn much oil?

Don’t they all? Lol. Switching to 15W-40 year-round helped a lot tho.

Also, the timing belt can be a pain, but it also seems to encourage better coolant maintenance, whereas people will just let the old coolant sit for decades in the timing chain-driven 1FZ, which could contribute to HG issues.

Agreed.

honestly the GX470 might be the best value now that I think about it, since they all have the 5-speeds and still are seen as "just a used car" by most people, without the Cruiser/Tacoma tax.

That terrible rear barn door is a primary reason why I will never buy one. And they’re also just a fancy 4Runner.

 

[krice118]

Another thing to consider is budget…. A nice 80 or 100 could be in the $20k-25k range and you can get a 200 for that price

 

[SaturnAscends]

Another thing to consider is budget…. A nice 80 or 100 could be in the $20k-25k range and you can get a 200 for that price

They may be good trucks, but I’d be hesitant to get into a 200 given the complexity and expense of the common repairs. Even just a radiator can cost $1500 on those. And changing a starter on the 3UR makes the 2UZ look easy. Not to mention cam tower leaks, etc. They also look like an engorged Highlander and weigh three tonnes stock.

 

[krice118]

The 100 is not very different. Land cruisers are boats, Bring Out Another Thousand. Alternator? $1k Valve cover gaskets? $800 Fan clutch $500….

AC compressor -$900
Timing belt / water pump -$1200ish
Steering rack -~$1800



100s are older especially 98 vs early 200s and a 200 won’t need a steering rack or timing belt

I would bet maintenance would me similar or less on a newer 200.

Unless you are DIY…

 

[OwnerCS]

@SaturnAscends you know me and know that I'm happy with my modified 100 series. The turning radius is short enough that I can snake through the worst part of the Day 4 bypass. I spent a year building it into the rig that it is. Sometimes it's just learning how to enjoy the truck that you have.

 

[krice118]

@SaturnAscends you know me and know that I'm happy with my modified 100 series. The turning radius is short enough that I can snake through the worst part of the Day 4 bypass. I spent a year building it into the rig that it is. Sometimes it's just learning how to enjoy the truck that you have.

Wise words from Craig. That’s also why I’ve kept my 100- enjoy the built truck that I have. Now I mainly just maintain it as most mods are done.

Drove the 100 tonight, love it- best SUV

In My post above I just wanted to be clear that if you are not a DIY mechanic, my experience has been $1-2500/ year in maintenance.

The cool thing is after 100k miles and it hasn’t really depreciated….. yes I’ve spent $8k on armor and another $10k on maintenance but now it’s ready for another 20 years……

 

[SaturnAscends]

Wise words from Craig. That’s also why I’ve kept my 100- enjoy the built truck that I have. Now I mainly just maintain it as most mods are done.

Drove the 100 tonight, love it- best SUV.

I'd like to drive one locally to see how I like it. I may end up just learning to love the Tacoma. It's great out on the trails, but its highway manners (or lack thereof) are starting to wear on me.

 

[OwnerCS]

I'd like to drive one locally to see how I like it. I may end up just learning to love the Tacoma. It's great out on the trails, but its highway manners (or lack thereof) are starting to wear on me.

Doesn't hurt to drive a few to learn good from bad. The first time I drove one it wandered all over the road from a worn out suspension. It was horrible. LOL

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I'd like to drive one locally to see how I like it. I may end up just learning to love the Tacoma. It's great out on the trails, but its highway manners (or lack thereof) are starting to wear on me.

FWIW, I drove a 98 4runner for 16 years, so basically the same as your 96 Taco, minus the rear half of the body and rear suspension. It was great on tight trails and I could maneuver it well, but the more off-road capable I made that truck the worse it drove on pavement. The continual front end maintenance from off-roading that 4R also started to drive me nuts - I was replacing OEM Toyota tie rod ends and lower ball joints damn near annually and OEM steering rack every 2-3 years. But within the first 10 minutes of test driving a clapped out, very poorly maintained 100, I instantly knew that the 100 was more solidly built in stock form than most modified 96-02 4R/Taco ever could be (except for the SAS’d varieties). After I purchased the 100 and fixed all of its problems, I kept the 4R for another 2 years, eventually realizing that I was never driving it anymore - I chose to drive the 100 no matter what. So i sold the 4R and haven't regretted the swap a single day since…But then I started accumulating more and older Cruisers, which my bank account has not liked…

 

[SaturnAscends]

FWIW, I drove a 98 4runner for 16 years, so basically the same as your 96 Taco, minus the rear half of the body and rear suspension. It was great on tight trails and I could maneuver it well, but the more off-road capable I made that truck the worse it drove on pavement. The continual front end maintenance from off-roading that 4R also started to drive me nuts - I was replacing OEM Toyota tie rod ends and lower ball joints damn near annually and OEM steering rack every 2-3 years. But within the first 10 minutes of test driving a clapped out, very poorly maintained 100, I instantly knew that the 100 was more solidly built in stock form than most modified 96-02 4R/Taco ever could be (except for the SAS’d varieties). After I purchased the 100 and fixed all of its problems, I kept the 4R for another 2 years, eventually realizing that I was never driving it anymore - I chose to drive the 100 no matter what. So i sold the 4R and haven't regretted the swap a single day since…But then I started accumulating more and older Cruisers, which my bank account has not liked…

Yea most of the trails I do are pretty mild, so I'm hoping the IFS will hold up decently well. At least a rack for a Tacoma isn't crazy expensive. I think the little Tacoma really shines on those type of narrow tracks out in the woods. We don't have as many rocky hardcore trails out here like up in Colorado, which is where a beefier Land Cruiser excels IMO. Apparently the IFS on the 1G Taco/3G4R doesn't hold up very well in settings with more constant traction i.e. Moab, Johnson Valley, etc. (Having said that, I am planning on doing Stony Pass and maybe Pearl Pass this summer). The torsion bar setup on the 100 might not be the flexiest, but it does seem to be pretty durable: not far behind the solid axle on the 80 series I'd say, at least as far as the CVs/Birfs.

My 97 LC wasn't as lithe out on the trails around here. It didn't seem to like mud, clay, or wet slopes very much. But I did have the feeling that it would hold up much better to prolonged abuse on rough roads than my current Tacoma. In a way, it's sort of a balancing act between durability and maneuverability. A twin locked 80 might be the sweet spot, but mine had open diffs. I felt like the big 80 really needed locker to heave itself up some obstacles, whereas the Tacoma was light enough to "send it", if that makes any sense.

 

[SaturnAscends]

but the more off-road capable I made that truck the worse it drove on pavement.

Would you say LCs have better road manners when modified (3" lift, armor etc.), than a minitruck?

Also, I'd be curious how you'd compare the 80 and 100 series on and off-road. Ik there's a ton of threads comparing them, and the general consensus seems to be that a 100 will go at least 95% of the places an 80 will (assuming the same amount of locked diffs), while being far more comfortable/practical as a DD, albeit more complex to repair. I've also seen some claim that a 100 with ATRAC will outperform an 80 series (at least an open diff one), so it can be heard to draw definitive conclusions.

 

[IGLUZJ]

After going from a 97 Land Cruiser to a 96 Tacoma, I am regretting giving up all the interior space. and durability of a Land Cruiser, and am also looking for something better suited to a daily half-hour commute, while also perhaps being more resistant to frame rust when driven in wintry conditions.

I'm also considering a GX470, but am leaning towards a 100 series for the stronger 9.5" rear diff, the extra space, and the availability of a rear locker in the 98-99 models. However, I could be swayed toward the GX since they seem to command lower prices compared to the UZJ100.

However, I had a few concerns. I'd heard of issues with the ATRAC overloading the R&P on the front diffs, even in light snow. I'd prefer the 98-99 models for this reason; I prefer the idea of a rear locker instead, even if they do have the weaker front diffs from the factory (I figure most of those would be replaced by now?) Is there any insight on this issue? I figured maybe a front LSD would help as well..

Also, how do they compare with an 80 series in wintry conditions, in terms of performance and rust-resistance?

Will it be too big and ungainly for the narrow muddy tracks we have here in northwest Arkansas? My 80 series seemed to get bogged down relatively easily in these conditions with open diffs where a lighter Tacoma would crawl through easily.

Finally, is the usual (deferred) maintenance/baselining process less expensive and painstaking than that of an FZJ80? From what I've researched, they seem to have sealed bearings, obviating the obligatory front axle rebuilds on the 80 series, and the 2UZ doesn't seem to need top-end rebuilds every 200k like the 1fz; however, they do appear to have their own quirks, like cracked manifolds, etc.

Anyway, I'm sorry for the long-winded post, but I'd appreciate any insights on any of this from current owners. Thanks.

One thing with GX vs 100 too is the torsion bar in the 100. Depends on what you do offroading but a GX has more travel up front.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Would you say LCs have better road manners when modified (3" lift, armor etc.), than a minitruck?

YES. Much better. The 100 still rides like a dream with bumpers, sliders, lift, and bigger tires. In fact, that stuff is barely noticeable while driving other than a little bit of lost pep/power, which t-case gears or diff gears would easily resolve.

Also, I'd be curious how you'd compare the 80 and 100 series on and off-road.

The 100 is the rig to take if I want to wheel moderate to hard stuff while also having a pleasurable highway drive to and from the trail, or if I want to drive across the country with the wife, kids, dogs, and trailer and also do some wheeling when I get there. The 80 is the rig to take if I want to do hard trails and the highway drive is no more than a couple hours; I would not drive my 80 across the country for any reason.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

One thing with GX vs 100 too is the torsion bar in the 100. Depends on what you do offroading but a GX has more travel up front.

Barely. I don’t remember the exact numbers but it’s something like 7.8” front travel for the 100 and 8.2” front travel for the GX/4Runner/FJC/Prado/Taco…BUT, you can actually long-travel the 120/150s, whereas you can’t do much to increase 100 travel.

 

[D21FJ60]

I’m guessing you must live in the salt belt. But anyway yea that sounds like a lot of the common 90s Toyota stuff, only I’d guess it’s more expensive on the LC than a Tacoma, for instance.

Would you say it’s easier to work on than an 80 series? It sounds like it’d be cost-prohibitive to hire out all that work to a mechanic.

Thanks.

Somewhat rust belt, DC area. I don’t have any experience with 80s besides what I’ve read on here..