Removing steering rack

[LC200qTr]

Before writing this post I have searched the internet for days and ih8mud site deeply for any technical reviews of how to remove the steering rack on 200 series with a 2uz v8 engine. I have seen some comments where people say that in the Toyota manual the first step is to remove the engine!!!!

Linuxgod has gratefully supported me by sending me the link to the 40GB repair manual bit I tried more than once and it didn't work for me.

I have spent the whole weekend and still no luck on getting the rack out.

What I have done:

1.Remove the tierod end bolts to the knuckels
2.Unbolted the 3 bolts holding the rack
3.Got the high and low pressure line entering the pinion off ( not the piping that runs on the rack it self)
4.Removed driver side strut to reach the bolt for the steering shaft and got that off
5.loosened the engine mount bolts to lift the engine a couple inches

The rack moves right and left but it want come out.

The new rack is a full oem assembly, I would like to get the old off as an assembly to get the new one on similarly.

 

[jblatl]

My truck had the rack replaced by the dealer at 95k, I do not think they removed the motor.

 

[jblatl]

The repair bill was $3,800, for that price maybe they did remove the motor.

 

[LC200qTr]

I'm still researching today I will try to remove the tie rod ends and engine oil filter bracket

 

[jblatl]

When I did the rack in my 100 series I had to unbolt the engine mount and raise the engine, really was a pain.

 

[Rigger]

Lifting the motor a smidge makes sense. But pulling the motor out completely?

 

[LC200qTr]

Update

Yesterday after removing the tie rod ends ( had to use my grinder on one side), oil filter bracket and sway bar I got the thing out!!!!!

 

[Mogwai]

Update

Yesterday after removing the tie rod ends ( had to use my grinder on one side), oil filter bracket and sway bar I got the thing out!!!!!

Success? Did you end up having to lift the motor? Any other tid-bits? May try and help another fellow mudder w/ this job.

 

[encrypttie]

I logged into the new version of AllData and to my surprise, the steps for removing the rack are different compared to the old one. The old one said I had to lift/remove the engine. The new one doesn't mention that.

Looks like using a special tool (09616-00011) you can turn the whees to the right, which will make it shorter on the left side.

Then you can remove it like this:

Black Arrow	Remove in this Direction (1)
White Arrow	Remove in this Direction (2)

 

[RCDoug]

I logged into the new version of AllData and to my surprise, the steps for removing the rack are different compared to the old one. The old one said I had to lift/remove the engine. The new one doesn't mention that.

Looks like using a special tool (09616-00011) you can turn the whees to the right, which will make it shorter on the left side.

View attachment 2774245

Then you can remove it like this:

View attachment 2774243

Black Arrow	Remove in this Direction (1)
White Arrow	Remove in this Direction (2)

Hope that works. I had to lift up the engine. Wasn't really that bad. Just make sure to remove the bolts from your fan shroud so it moves with the fan.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Hmm. Brought my 2011 to Toyota for brakes. They said it needs a new rack as they can see a slight leak by the boot. How long do those last? I haven’t gotten the quote yet, but assuming it will be $$$ due to the process listed above. I see $3800 above…yikes.

 

[Wafflroo]

Hmm. Brought my 2011 to Toyota for brakes. They said it needs a new rack as they can see a slight leak by the boot. How long do those last? I haven’t gotten the quote yet, but assuming it will be $$$ due to the process listed above. I see $3800 above…yikes.

I replaced mine on my 2013 with 120k end of last year. I think that’s about a normal lifespan. If you’ve got the time and space to do it yourself it’s not a terrible job and saves a good deal. I just worked on it a few hours a day for a few days.

- Definitely back the bolts for the motor mounts out, I didn’t remove them entirely.
- I didn’t remove the bolts for the fan shroud, I just paid close attention as I lifted the motor.
- remove the inner and outer tie rods, makes it a whole lot easier removing and installing the new rack.

 

[linuxgod]

Hmm. Brought my 2011 to Toyota for brakes. They said it needs a new rack as they can see a slight leak by the boot. How long do those last? I haven’t gotten the quote yet, but assuming it will be $$$ due to the process listed above. I see $3800 above…yikes.

Mine started leaking around 100k, maybe a bit more. I replaced it around 150k because I had to add P/S fluid monthly, as opposed to ignoring it and letting the shop just top it off after an oil change. Dealer charged $2800 including the alignment. I think $1200 of that was the rack. They did not remove the engine, the all data info above is apparently the way to do this.

Make sure you replace the o rings on the oil filter housing when replacing it… the dealer reused mine and they ended up barfing a quart of oil on my garage floor about a week later when one gave out

 

[Caveman Cruiser]

Reviving this thread in hopes of getting some tips!

Trying to get the rack out. Have tried for 2 days but still no go. So far I have done the following but it's still stuck in there.

Removed all the bolts to the rack, outer tie rods and the removable bracket on the rack.

Lowered the diff. It's only held on by 1 bolt and it's totally out of the way. CVs are pretty much resting on the LCAs.

Loosened engine mount bolts and jacked up the engine until the bolts fell out.

Removed oil filter.

I am trying to follow the tilt and twist method in that diagram but the oil filter housing is in the way. Also, loosened the sway bar and moved it down but that made it worse so I tightened it back up.

 

[turbo8]

Reviving this thread in hopes of getting some tips!

Trying to get the rack out. Have tried for 2 days but still no go. So far I have done the following but it's still stuck in there.

Removed all the bolts to the rack, outer tie rods and the removable bracket on the rack.

Lowered the diff. It's only held on by 1 bolt and it's totally out of the way. CVs are pretty much resting on the LCAs.

Loosened engine mount bolts and jacked up the engine until the bolts fell out.

Removed oil filter.

I am trying to follow the tilt and twist method in that diagram but the oil filter housing is in the way. Also, loosened the sway bar and moved it down but that made it worse so I tightened it back up.

I was dreading it for over a year, but wasn't too bad. Your experience might be different as I have a Tundra front end, AHC delete, and no front sway bar. I worked slowly over a few days to get it done.

I had to do the following:
remove front and engine sections of my skids
remove wheels (2)
remove shocks (2)
remove tie rod ends (2)
undo the front diff mounts (3) and let it hang down as much as possible (cvs and drive shaft still attached)
undo upper engine mount bolts (4) and lift engine up until fan jams up against shroud
Undo rack mounting bolts (3), steering coupler and steering lines (2) from rack.
remove oil filter cap

I was able to snake the rack out the passenger side hole. I didn't think I was going to be able to do that and was going to have to fully remove the front diff. That made my day when I got it out without removing the diff.

I couldn't get the new rack back in the same way without removing one of the hydraulic lines attached to the rack. So you might want to remove the hydraulic lines off the old rack, which might make it easier to remove.

Make sure your diff breather line is attached before pushing the diff back into place.

 

[Caveman Cruiser]

I read that some have removed the "oil cooler bracket". Is that the small bracket where the engine ground cable is attached? I already removed that small piece as well as the plastic oil filter housing. But the rack hits the metal parts of the filter cooler housing thingies.

 

[RCDoug]

I read that some have removed the "oil cooler bracket". Is that the small bracket where the engine ground cable is attached? I already removed that small piece as well as the plastic oil filter housing. But the rack hits the metal parts of the filter cooler housing thingies.

I did it 5 years ago. I think I remember unbolting the fan shroud so I could jack the engine up high enough.

 

[TeCKis300]

It might be worthwhile to mention that offset plays greatly into wear and tear on the steering rack.

With good offsets, most of the directional loads are isolated to the knuckle and kingpin. Aggressive offsets start putting loads into the steering rack. Big tires with aggressive offsets increase those forces. Offsets, big tires, and rocks can put huge forces into the steering.

An analogy would be a powered door. Loads that push and pull a door (knuckle) near the hinge (kingpin) have less influence on the door. Pulling/pushing away from the hinge say where the knob is (tire offset from kingpin), puts much more load on the motor (steering rack) to control the doors position.

In a stock setup, when a front tire encounters an object or imperfection in the road, the load is primarily on the spine of the kingpin/hinge. Which doesn't translate to any steering loads. With offsets away from that magic neutral position, an increasing part of that load is now on the steering rack. Acceleration and steering loads also get transferred into the rack.

Forces on the steering rack also get transferred to the steering wheel which can result in driver fatigue.

The often seen tie rod failure with both tires pointing inwards is also attributable to aggressive offsets.

 

[Caveman Cruiser]

OK, I was able to get it out and put the new rack in. This was not a fun a job!
In the end I was not able to tilt and go out from the center as indicated in that diagram shared earlier on this thread. I kept hitting the oil cooler parts.

Here is what worked for me:
Took off the two hydraulic lines that go along the rack.
Used a locking plier to rotate the rack position and steer all the way to passenger side, reducing the inner tie rod length on driver side.
Pulled out the rack straight out of the hole on passenger side with some tilt and twist.
This is in addition to jacking the engine up about 1 inch and dropping the diff but did not have to disconnect sway bar.

These 2 videos helped me. They are from right hand drive diesel models but, it's the same technic, only mirrored to passenger side.

 

[linuxgod]

Reviving this thread in hopes of getting some tips!

Trying to get the rack out. Have tried for 2 days but still no go. So far I have done the following but it's still stuck in there.

Removed all the bolts to the rack, outer tie rods and the removable bracket on the rack.

Lowered the diff. It's only held on by 1 bolt and it's totally out of the way. CVs are pretty much resting on the LCAs.

Loosened engine mount bolts and jacked up the engine until the bolts fell out.

Removed oil filter.

I am trying to follow the tilt and twist method in that diagram but the oil filter housing is in the way. Also, loosened the sway bar and moved it down but that made it worse so I tightened it back up.

The oil cooler was removed when the shop did mine. I think 2 bolts hold it to the engine, plus the cooling lines. I recommend new o-rings when reinstalling.