Complete Front End Rebuild (1 Viewer)

[brownfox]

Well, it started with replacing my steering rack, differential bushings and CV's. Then I figured I had it far apart enough I would do rod ends, then UCA ball joints, but a cam bolt was seized, so now I bought SPC uppers, then figured I'd clean and paint the LCAs and spindle arms. So yeah, regretting my decision just a bit, but I'm trying to take my time and do it right. But I have a few questions that may benefit others that do this in the future.

I've searched and found a few threads about the LCA bushings, and the consensus seemed to be that it was a colossal pain and most would avoid doing it again. Now, I have some new SuperPro bushings ready to go, and I'm confident I can get the old bushings out. I can hole saw them or burn them out, then use a die grinder and easily slice the outer shell. But, I don't see that anyone has used the SuperPro on the LCAs, would this be worth it in the long run? Admittedly, there wasn't an indication anything was wrong with the current ones. The 100 was quiet, but did seem very very floaty.

Next, I'm going to install new wheel bearings. Looking at my current ones, the grease looks cooked to me, very thick and dark. It does have a reddish look to it when spread thin.

Also have these marks from the splines on this ring. Does that look like a one time impact perhaps or from on going contact. I've read about having improper snap ring gap causing scoring, is that what this is? It's only on one spindle.

And, the previous owner must have lost the bolt here or boogered up the threads. I haven't taken it apart yet, but I'm debating just leaving that fix there depending on the threads. Perhaps the bearings don't need replacing, but the grease felt really think and burnt. Especially on the back side of the hub (the cover with the cone washers.

Thanks in advance, and thanks to all the info on this board that let me get this far without a new post.

 

[2001LC]

Typical I like to clean bearing to get good look at, before making the call. But I do see what looks like some deep scoring on yours. Replace wheel bearings & races.

Brass axle bushing is notched from teeth on axle. A few ways this could of happen, non good. Since you pulled out consider replacing it and the needle bearings.

Often times threads can be restored if not drilled out. I'd try and replace with OEM bolt if you can.

Rotor itself look like it would benefit from machining (turning)

 

[brownfox]

Thanks, I jus searched again and bookmarked a really informative thread you posted on a few times. Talking about torque and breakaway preload. I'm going to get all new parts from Cruiser Outfitters. Super nice since they are close by. Now I just need to make a decision about the LCA bushings.

 

[knewstance]

I just finished about 60% of the project you are taking on. I'm glad I put things back together when I did, it was a lot of work, but you are on the downhill.

I considered doing the LCA bushings while I was replacing the lower ball joints. I decided against it when I saw what was required to install the new ones. Let me see if I can find the thread that got me discouraged to see if you can learn a bit from it.

Bushing Install this method seemed pretty solid, kind of how I replaced the steering rack bushings while it was still on the truck.

 

[brownfox]

Thanks that thread is perfect. The question is whether or not it’s worth it for the SuperPro bushing I have ready to go. I think I’ll do it and report back.

I just need to spread out my work and keep everything clean and organized. Today I’m going to paint my LCAs and prep for the reinstall.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

My LCA frame side bushings were a pain until I figured out a trick to getting them out. Then removal and installation of new bushings were super easy. I would 100% have no issue with doing them again.

Trick is to torch one side of the frame where the bushing is pressed in. This will loosen it up enough to make it easy to remove. Before applying heat my bushings DID NOT want to come out.

 

[brownfox]

Ordered everything from cruiser outfitters today. Lucky for me to be in Utah, 30 miles away from them to pick everything up. Did you use the 35mm socket method, and what did you replace them with?

The SuperPros don't have the outer metal sleeve, so my install will be much easier than removal.

For me to do the method for the earlier posted thread, I just need to find a large enough receiver. I'm a welder by hobby so I may have something large enough already. I've got some 2.5 inch square tubing. But I wonder if it would be quicker to just die grinder them out.

 

[brownfox]

I believe I’ve found the cause of the marks on the axle bushing. If you look in the circle, the bearing is a little deformed. Could the cause of this be snap ring gap?

 

[saucebox]

Ordered everything from cruiser outfitters today. Lucky for me to be in Utah, 30 miles away from them to pick everything up. Did you use the 35mm socket method, and what did you replace them with?

Wasn't directed at me, but yes, and OEM from Cruiser Outfitters. It is nice to be so close to Kurt's shop.

 

[brownfox]

Pressed in races for my DS hub and new spindle needle bearings as well. Thank god for having a press, went very smooth. Lost a spacer from my UCAs so had to email SPC to get some new ones.

Going back together well, was a little worried for a sec.

 

[brownfox]

Maybe a dumb question or observation, but while beginning the reassembly and putting the hub and rotor back on, it became apparent how crucial the 54mm axle nuts are.

It seems the only thing pressing the hub back onto the spindle and keeping it centered on the bearing is the nut? That seems crazy? Obviously it works, but am I missing something? I will be torquing the nut and setting preload based on what I’ve seen in 2001LC s videos.

Next, while installing the diff drop I removed the #3 cross member and found a decent amount of rust. The bolts seem to have taken the brunt of it, the guide holes appear much less affected. Cleaned with wire brush and gun oil and then dried with cloth bore cleaner. Doused in rustoleum. I will probably redo with por 15 in a year when I inspect it again.

@2001LC are you seeing the bolts more affected by corrosion than the tubes?

Finally, I watched @2001LC video on packing the bearings, and yeah, I didn’t do that good of a job. I have already pressed the seal over the inner bearing. I went back and could get fingers in there and tried to pack more grease into them. I’m guessing it’s probably worth pulling the seal and redoing it, but I did feel them gain some rotating resistance after my in hub extra packing. Anyone have thoughts?

If I should pull the seal, what’s the best method to preserve it? I’ve seen the YouTube video where the guy rethreads the nut and yanks it off, but seems risky.

Thanks to this whole forum being such a wealth of knowledge!

 

[2001LC]

Maybe a dumb question or observation, but while beginning the reassembly and putting the hub and rotor back on, it became apparent how crucial the 54mm axle nuts are.

It seems the only thing pressing the hub back onto the spindle and keeping it centered on the bearing is the nut? That seems crazy? Obviously it works, but am I missing something? I will be torquing the nut and setting preload based on what I’ve seen in 2001LC s videos. Works just fine provided properly serviced!

Next, while installing the diff drop I removed the #3 cross member and found a decent amount of rust. The bolts seem to have taken the brunt of it, the guide holes appear much less affected. Cleaned with wire brush and gun oil and then dried with cloth bore cleaner. Doused in rustoleum. I will probably redo with por 15 in a year when I inspect it again.

@2001LC are you seeing the bolts more affected by corrosion than the tubes?Both are effected, but to date I see steal bushes inside frame more effect than bolts. Bolts have a protective coating which wears off over time. Bolts are easily replaced in No #3 cross-member. The steal bushing they slide into are not sold as a replaceable part. The bushing are only sold with that portion of frame they're in for $500. That portion of frame then needs cut off from the main frame and new portion of frame welded in. Fortunately it is thick steal and will last a very long time. I do predict, we'll see the ones that have not been de-rust and painted fail in the future. Bolts will likely fail first. The rust bucket rigs from rust belt, will be the first to have issue IMHO.

Finally, I watched @2001LC video on packing the bearings, and yeah, I didn’t do that good of a job. I have already pressed the seal over the inner bearing. I went back and could get fingers in there and tried to pack more grease into them. I’m guessing it’s probably worth pulling the seal and redoing it, but I did feel them gain some rotating resistance after my in hub extra packing. Anyone have thoughts?

If I should pull the seal, what’s the best method to preserve it? I’ve seen the YouTube video where the guy rethreads the nut and yanks it off, but seems risky. *********That video is a lesson of how not to do a wheel bearing job IMO. I've written about many of the things the guy did wrong in threads with that video. Unfortunately all to often shop use techniques similar to his. They do this because it's fast, not because it's proper procedure. Properly service wheels bearing should last a lifetime.
The inner seal is one of the very few seals that can easily be removed and re-used. Just use a wooden dowel and tap around circumference of rear large bearing from inside. Coming at it from the front inside of the hub. Have hub (rotors/disk) on wooden blocks (2x4) so seal and bearing have room to drop out bottom. Provided you've not damaged/bend seal housing and seal lip in good condition, it can be re used. Packing bearing with grease is critical, as is packing hub with grease so grease will force into bearings with centrifugal force while spinning.

Thanks to this whole forum being such a wealth of knowledge!

Expand for responses

 

[brownfox]

Thank you! I’ll watch your packing video again and I’ll be tapping out that seal. I was afraid I would have to ruin it and at this point in the project I shouldn’t cheap on it.

My crossmember bolts seem to be in much worse condition that the bushes. I’m going to just watch them. Should be easy enough to pull two at a time and get a look in there and re-grease.

One last thing, one bolt that goes from the rotor to the hub won’t seat. Threads on the hub are gone. I can get a time sert Kit for $100. I believe it’s m12x1.25 for the size. It was occupied by a nut and bolt when I took it apart. Time sert or new hub?

 

[2001LC]

I would go with used wheel hub. Cost may be about the same or even less than a time-sert kit. Either will work!

Here's the rub with a replacement hub; You'll likely need a set of new wheel bearings & races. I'd looked for wheel hub from parts rig, that has bearing with it. You may get lucky and get good bearings in the deal!

 

[brownfox]

Hubs and rotors on and preload set. But, when tightening the steering ends onto the knuckle I gave it a bit too much. Like, 40 lbs too much. Or more. I’m embarrassed. Backing it off it seems a bit loose now, I don’t think the actual torque (67lbf?) will be tight enough now. Anyone have insight? The new ends are 555s, actually each has a different sized bolt. I may just swap the nuts since one is 24mm and the other 22mm and see if that helps.

 

[2001LC]

I'm unclear on what nuts or bolt your concerned with over-tightened?
Picture?

 

[brownfox]

The one that connects the steering rod to the spindle. I actually just swapped nuts and it tightened and seems to torque correctly. So we’re good. Just finishing up now.