Builds complete BJ45 rebuild start next week in Bolivia

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I visited the official Toyota dealer here in La Paz, to ask for a complete gasket set for the engine, and he says the numbers have changed from 04111-58013 into 04111-58017.

Can someone check this?
 
So I went shopping today in the junkyards of La Paz... And I came up with several things. Most of which is my long sought after spare wheel carrier for the back door. At a stiff price of 25 USD!!! A bargain I might say. Needs a new bushing and paint.

But the thing that interested me the most, a good looking frame. The only thing that concerns me is that it is not of a j45, but I guess for a j62... He said it comes from a 5 doors ´89 landcruiser with a 3F engine... I have the VIN number: FJ62-076210

Now the question is.... Would this frame save my day? In other words, is it usable for my bj45 tub. I know I would have to change the engine supports, but what else?

Coen
 
Coen: I responded on your other thread, but...

I know I would have to change the engine supports, but what else?

Body mounts.
Transmission mounts.
Front crossmember (or build a bracket to fit your 40 series body)
Radiator or mounts.
Deal with the wider 60 series axles.
Move the steering gearbox (or cut the body to fit it).
I'm not even sure if a 60 series frame will fit inside your 40 series body.

Those are off the top of my head, I'm sure there are LOTS of other changes, and I'm sure it's been done, but...

You are absolutely right on the altitude affecting your compression test. Unless you do a differential compression test (nobody does those on automobiles though) the atmospheric pressure will affect your compression numbers. Those numbers look good enough to me. I'd keep driving it like that.

Like I posted on your other thread: even though you don't know exactly which frame you will end up using (either repairing yours, or replacing it), this would be a perfect time to convert to 60 series power steering. It's simpler, and it's stronger than the factory 40 series setup, and I'd bet you could pull a steering gearbox off of that 62 frame you found....

The bodywork those guys are doing looks great! I can't wait to see it more together with a coat of primer. You guys had such a good looking truck to begin with, I think it'll be exceptional once you are done with it in La Paz! While they are doing bodywork, have them reinforce the sheet metal for the spare tire carrier you scored: that way the weight of the tire will have less ability to mess up your nice new body.

Keep the updates coming!

Dan
 
very cool

great thread. love to read & see the updates.

I would offer to help if I knew anything the slightest bit technical :) As it were, I will cheer you on from afar.
 
Thanx you guys for the info and the moral support. I can use it for sure. Nothing goes like you anticipate beforehand...

I brought the diesel injectors to a Bosch shop and hopefully tomorrow my origninal gasket kit will arrive. I will start taking the clutch plate of and see if I can get a new one, if not I will pressure test this one.

I was in a hardware store today and saw a sandblasting gun with a little recipient underneath (about a liter). I am now googling on sandblasting DIY. Might go into sandblasting the frame... I read about all the dangers, but this would be a onetime experience.

More images tomorrow, and dont forget to tune in sunday on KABC Los Angeles Motorman radio show. We will be live on the air talking to Leon Kaplan... Google if you have to...
 
So I scored a genuine Toyota gasket set for our 3B engine today. Only 200 USD. That must be a bargain. Looked into a new clutch pressure plate and disc as well. A new 88 degrees celsius thermostat is proving to be more problematic to find, but we will not give in...

more images....

Esteban is welding the reinforcements in the floor. We have opted for beams all the way across.

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With a big disk he is trying to cut two layers at once. I think the disk needs to be replaced as it is not that sharp anymore.

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Look what was sitting in front of one of my favorite shops. A FJ45. I don't see long bodies that much here in Bolivia, and when I do, most always it will be a pick-up. I have never seen a hard top long body. These long bodies are used as workhorses and hardly ever for sale here. The more popular short wheel based are called 'jeeps' here.

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The 'San Pedro' district is full of these little parts shops. There isn't a big store where you walk in and ask what you want and walk out with it. No you just have to visit all the shops and hope you find your part. They most certainly don't know what their neighbor is selling, but will always refer you to it as the shop that has the part you are looking for.

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Custom made burglar solution. Apparently it is needed to keep nosy people out of your engine bay. I did buy something similar, but I don't know if I am going to install it. It kind of messes with the lovely look the nose has.

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These are the hinches of the front doors. I had them fitted with brass bushings. They wont budge now, but I hope that when the doors are attached that that will change. The original plastic ones came out in pieces.

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These retainers which keeps the hood in place have a very strong spring inside. The old once were rusted and missing the little rubbery things. I bought these for about 8 dollars the pair.

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The original logo's of the rear. I have to look if I can paint them nicely one way or another. New they are available, but will cost a fortune, or as they tend to say her 'vale un Potosi' because of the big silvermines in Potosi. These logo's and names are riveted on the cars here, I don't know why, maybe they steal them here?

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A few more images of Esteban welding. I does look odd, the whole side panel askew like that. But one blow of the big hammer puts all thing back into perspective.

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The overall has to be buttoned up all the way. You don't want any of the little sparks to find their way into your clothes.

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Slowly the work is progressing. Utmost concentration here.

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I have bough new switches at the electric shop. The old ones [in the background] are sticking out to much and we have lost three plastic ones like that. I have replaced some by metallic levers, but they get switched accidently sometimes and we'd be driving all day with the rear work lights on. So I thought of replacing them by something smaller and also something with a light inside so that it would be obvious when switched on accidently or not.

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Mounted the Christmas lights.

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Doing the bodywork with an oxy/acetylene torch--now that is manly!

Looking very nice as it comes together.

Have you thought about a locking mechanism for your hood like this:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/283322-locking-hood-option.html

Locks your hood, AND doesn't put that ugly clasp on the front of the hood.

I like the idea of lighted switches. Very cool, and very useful--especially if you've already had problems bumping stuff on in the past.

Dan
 
Doing the bodywork with an oxy/acetylene torch--now that is manly!

Looking very nice as it comes together.

Have you thought about a locking mechanism for your hood like this:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/283322-locking-hood-option.html

Locks your hood, AND doesn't put that ugly clasp on the front of the hood.

I like the idea of lighted switches. Very cool, and very useful--especially if you've already had problems bumping stuff on in the past.

Dan

Hmmm. Nice idea, about the lock. And I guess by manly, you mean it as a compliment? I don't know nothing about welding, so I wouldn't have a clue about any other method for bodywork...

More images...

Esteban took the left wheel well out. The sidewall of that is also going, because of the big holes in there.

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The right side comes along great. Welding is done here. So we'll start sanding soon.

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Extra reinforcements in strange shapes. That diagonal piece is to make sure that the mud protectors we bought in Buenos Aires will fit again.

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All of a sudden I find this in my view. The popular short version. They like it here to pimp those. I must say I don't object to the color scheme, but I personally don't like those wide tyres. Neither the window wind deflectors, the big exhaust pipe and least of all the big wing on the top with a third brake light in it. Preposterous. But that is my personal opinion.

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I have to do some shopping in the car parts neighborhood and I took my camera. First I have to get something soldered at the radiator specialist. He is doing something that is quite normal here in Bolivia; killing the catalytic converter. I don't have the official numbers, but I guess about 95% of the cars here are parallel imported from Japan and so they contain a catalytic converter. But the gasoline quality in Bolivia isn't top-notch so to say and the thing get clogged, rusted and starts to heat up. The local solution is either to replace it by a tube, or to take out the inside [it looks like a ceramic filter]. With the last option, at least the sensors keep working and you won't have to look at a red light in your dashboard.

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Street shops I call them. Very normal here. No space and money to own a real workshop so they take it on the street. Cheap, cheap. Borrow the neighbors jack and quickly install the car on wooden blocks.

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Those 95% of the cars whom I said came from Japan, can't officially hit the street with their steering wheels sitting on the right side. Like we have seen in Paraguay, also here they have a whole industrie of little shops that make the conversion.

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The steering wheel is already in place and the dash is gone to be cut into pieces and plastic welded they other way around. Cables have to be rerouted. Sometimes you come across the cheap operation where the dials are still on the right side while the steering wheel sits left.

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These Japanese modified cars are known here as Transformers, after the famous cartoons of the 80's. Real funny to see their logo's on these cars.

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Of course with a fully kitted car you need some sound. These are guaranteed to deliver. I you hit the streets with these, every single car alarm will go of. These are airbrushed they old fashioned way with a small blowpipe.

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Ten dollars a piece! But then they are custom fitted while you wait. I am still thinking about a color... :-)

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Coen
 
Doing the bodywork with an oxy/acetylene torch--now that is manly!
Dan

.... And I guess by manly, you mean it as a compliment? I don't know nothing about welding, so I wouldn't have a clue about any other method for bodywork...
Coen

Oxyacetylene has gone out-of-favour because it is impossible to weld thin panels without warping them Coen.

That's why the rest of the world has moved to mig welding.

By the way.....I can see why you've stopped in Bolivia! I think this is the most interesting place on the planet and I deeply envy you for being there.

:beer:
 
Look what was sitting in front of one of my favorite shops. A FJ45. I don't see long bodies that much here in Bolivia, and when I do, most always it will be a pick-up. I have never seen a hard top long body. These long bodies are used as workhorses and hardly ever for sale here. The more popular short wheel based are called 'jeeps' here.

Hello,

Interesting thread you have, reminding us how restorations are done in the Third World and what to expect. And certainly Bolivia is one interesting place for such a job.

Please keep us posted.

I remember the 40 Series swb was known as "el jeep Toyota" (Toyota's jeep) in South America. I am not sure whether the moniker was applied to the 70 Series.

Shorties were used in large numbers there. 25 Series and early Series 40 replaced Willys M29s, and I guess the look and application were the reason why they ended up being known as "jeeps."






Juan
 
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Okay, so I scored a new clutch disc yesterday and the original engine gasket set. I had the pressure plate of the clutch diagnosed and 220 on the scale would be sufficient the mechanic said.

Now that everything it out [the engine] would it be wise to use the old pressure plate? How long do they last? Or would it be wise to get a new one? They have one, I saw....

Coen

Oh... and I spotted the BBC Land Cruiser. Images soon...
 
WOW! what a great adventure, the stuff we rats daydream about while running through the maze! I am eager to follow this story through. Best of wishes to you.

:cheers:
 
Some help again please...
So I got new bronze bushings in the spare wheel carrier and after seeing some pictures on the Mud, I had them fitted with grease nipples.
Now the BJ45 never came prepared for a spare wheel carrier on the back, so I don't know if and how the other vehicles that came with it are prepared?

1- Is the tub reinforced on the spot where the carrier is hanging? If so how? Can someone provide images of that?

2- And I guess that nuts are welded in the inside, but is the wall itself threaded?

3- What are the distances from where to where is the carrier placed.

4- I looked in the parts catalogue and I saw 10m x 30 used on the upper hinge and 8m x 30 on the bottom hinge. So I bought stainless steel bolts in these sizes. Can I use them, or should they be graded once?

give me your thoughts...
Coen
 
this is the inside of my fj40. you can see the
plate with the nuts welded to it. there is one down below, for the bottom hinge, as well. hope this helps!


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Some help again please...
So I got new bronze bushings in the spare wheel carrier and after seeing some pictures on the Mud, I had them fitted with grease nipples.
Now the BJ45 never came prepared for a spare wheel carrier on the back, so I don't know if and how the other vehicles that came with it are prepared?

1- Is the tub reinforced on the spot where the carrier is hanging? If so how? Can someone provide images of that?


Definitely reinforce them. The bottom actually uses the sill as the reinforcement, while above there is a great picture of the upper reinforcement (even if it is from an earlier model, and on the right side whereas yours should be on the left).

2- And I guess that nuts are welded in the inside, but is the wall itself threaded?

Just has the captive nuts. The holes in the sheet metal itself are actually just slightly larger than the bolt that goes through them.

3- What are the distances from where to where is the carrier placed.

I can measure ours in a few weeks when I get home...

4- I looked in the parts catalogue and I saw 10m x 30 used on the upper hinge and 8m x 30 on the bottom hinge. So I bought stainless steel bolts in these sizes. Can I use them, or should they be graded once?

You can use the bolts you bought. They definitely don't need to be anything special like grade 10 or anything. I think ours were all 8mm though, top and bottom. No matter, yours will work just fine.

Keep the updates coming!

Dan
 
the wall was not threaded, just the hole through to the nuts. the edge near the door is 4 and 7/8 of an inch (14cm?) from the inside of the door frame.
 
sorry, I cant show a pic of the lower, I had to cut the lower metal out (or what the rust had left of metal). no more lower brace
 
this is the inside of my fj40. you can see the
plate with the nuts welded to it. there is one down below, for the bottom hinge, as well. hope this helps!

Heya thanks for the images... This helps. I am curious though. Is this original, or did you this? I mean, arent the original welded nuts square?
 

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