Clutch slipping. How best replace solo? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 30, 2005
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Hello

After operation and an hour in traffic, suddenly the clutch started slipping. It was quite hot.

Fine again after cooling a bit.
Clutch freeplay on slave cylindar seems ok.

Any recommendations on how to best replace the clutch on my own?

Regards
Bernt
 
Get an FSM and start ripping and tearing. It really depends on the tools and skills you have.
 
Rent/buy a tranny jack. Helps a ton when pulling the tranny/tcase solo.
 
Rent/buy a tranny jack. Helps a ton when pulling the tranny/tcase solo.

I did mine by myself; had a cheap Northern Tool transmission jack (really useful when it's time to stab the transmission back in) and I took the transmission access cover off in the tub, and supported the transmission and transfer case with ratchet straps hung from my roll cage. The hardest part is getting it stabbed back in.

Replace the rear main oil seal on the engine and the clutch throw-out bearing while you have the transmission off, and have the flywheel re-surfaced at a machine shop that knows about the step on it.
 
Like others said, get a transmission jack. I have done them by myself, worst part is getting it back it aligned to put it back together. Transmission jack makes it easier.

Or you could do what the PO did to my son's pickup. Put jacks under the transmission, cut out the floorboard, roll the truck forward replace the clutch then roll the truck back and tape the part of the floor boad back in. I am guessing they did not know how to remove the stick shift. Still funniest thing I have seen.
 
Hello

After operation and an hour in traffic, suddenly the clutch started slipping. It was quite hot.

Fine again after cooling a bit.
Clutch freeplay on slave cylindar seems ok.

Any recommendations on how to best replace the clutch on my own?

Regards
Bernt

This is the easiest way to pull the transmission by using an shop crane $179 at Harbor Freight.

dscn1727-jpg.605287
 
Hello all and thanks for the great tips.

My dad recommended to me last night that the best way to do a car clutch alone is to pull the motor out instead of the tranny.
He was not sure about a Landcruiser though.

Has anyone done it that way?

Regards
Bernt
 
Hello all and thanks for the great tips.

My dad recommended to me last night that the best way to do a car clutch alone is to pull the motor out instead of the tranny.
He was not sure about a Landcruiser though.

Has anyone done it that way?

Regardsg
Bernt

No need to pull the engine to do the clutch job...way too much work...way. Doing the work underneath the truck is not that big of a deal...even alone. Get a tranny jack, be prepared to support the engine (from underneath), drop the drive shafts and go to work.

Go to the FAQ's section and look for Posers great tips regarding mating everything up...not that hard.

John
 
I have a 2t floor jack and a Gantry with 1t chain hoist.
I also have a set of ramps

I am just getting a price on a 1t tranny jack. If I have to get that, I want one that can also do my big truck tranny. Just in case.

BTW: I am sure that my floor cannot be removed around the tunnel like in the picure above.

Bernt
 
Last edited:
The common theme to all the answers to your question of how to replace the clutch is "very, very carefully".

Additionally, you should address any other items that are available to you when you have this apart (seals, etc.).
 
I have a done this twice in the last year and I pull the whole engine/tranny/transfer case out at once. It's a lot easier to swap the clutch with it all out and easier to line everything up. Honestly the 40's are so simple under the hood to pull out I wouldn't wrestle trying to line the tranny up from the underside again unless I absolutely had to.
 
Great Thread I am going to pull Trans and transfer this weekend to replace clutch. Any recommendations for a machine shop in the Las Vegas area to surface a flywheel? Just got the clutch kit and rear main seal today from Cruiser corps.
 
I also just found out that I can get a standard clutch kit or a heavy duty one.

Anyone know the difference and whether or not I need a heavy duty one?

I tow a box trailer and a car trailer once in a while but that is all.

Regards

Bernt
 
hiya, i like to use both the tranny jack and the hoist from above. It helps with getting in back in and also pulling backwards to get it off. the cross member usually gets in the way so having both helps finesse it out and back in. i hope your pilot bearing is not seized on the tranny input shaft. If it is, it'll be a PITA to get the tranny/tcase off.


I also pull the pilot bearing out with a big carriage bolt with the head partly cut off so you can hook it behind the bearing and then put a nut on it with a washer and socket head to tighten the bolt to pull the bearing off (it's not as messy as the grease method).

if you replace the rear main seal, you may want to pull the oil pan off and the bottom of the where the rear main sits so you can put the rear main w/o much fuss (AKA the poser method). pulling the oil pan off can cause another set of headaches so there is a downside to that too. if you replace the rear main, you have to be careful not to grease the outer seal, only the inner part. you also have to be careful about putting the new rear main seal back in so you don't bung up the seal as it goes back in. A good way I saw here on MUD is to put the seal in a bit so it's straight and then put the fly wheel back on and bolt it up evenly. the rear main should go back on pretty well. You should check it as when you're done (pull the fly wheel back off) to ensure the rear main is not bunged up.

before you put the new pilot bearing in, put it on the input shaft to the tranny to make sure it goes on smooth and does not bind to the input shaft. if it does, clean/sand the input shaft so the pilot bearing does not get seized on the shaft.

After everything looks good, I put the flywheel back on and then run the engine for a few minutes to check for rear main leaks before finishing the clutch job. I would also look at the tranny/tcase since you've got it down (replace the seals if need be).

when you're ready to put the tranny/tcase back in, both floor jack and hoist will come in handy. I also use some long bolts that i put on the tranny and the bell housing to guide the tranny/tcase back to the bell housing. getting the tranny/tcase aligned back up to the bellhousing is a PITA (and the cross member gets in the way).

good luck!
ty
:beer:
 
Good write up!! Thanks for the incite.
Thanks
JP
 
when you're ready to put the tranny/tcase back in, both floor jack and hoist will come in handy. I also use some long bolts that i put on the tranny and the bell housing to guide the tranny/tcase back to the bell housing. getting the tranny/tcase aligned back up to the bellhousing is a PITA (and the cross member gets in the way).

good luck!
ty
:beer:

I have put the trans/Tcase combo back in by myself, not fun. Pay close attention to what is said here. Using long bolts to help align things can help a lot, just don't use bolts to pull the combo back into place. If you can't slide the combo in place without tension from the bolts, something is wrong. The combo MUST slide into place by hand.

Don
 

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