clutch slipping (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter gash05
- Start date
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Algazy posted awhile ago regarding this issue, he stated that it has occured where a pile of grease built up on the snout and would not let throw out function properly. IMO you have a too tall throw out and possibly too tall a pressure plate assembly. FWIW I have a sm420 on a LS and the stock 1970 clutch master & slave operate it fine.
I too can push the slave in alot after pressure plate is released. That is a matter of how long the acctuator rod is and it just moves where in the bore the slave piston travels, it travels the same based on the MC stroke & bore. so you can have a long rod and the slave piston is way back in the bore or you can have a short rod and the slave piston will operate at the front odf the bore, obviously a too short rod will allow the slave piston to push out of bore.
I too can push the slave in alot after pressure plate is released. That is a matter of how long the acctuator rod is and it just moves where in the bore the slave piston travels, it travels the same based on the MC stroke & bore. so you can have a long rod and the slave piston is way back in the bore or you can have a short rod and the slave piston will operate at the front odf the bore, obviously a too short rod will allow the slave piston to push out of bore.
gash05
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #23
Excellent points. I think there may be a few things happening. After looking at the pictures prior to install and working on it yesterday, I realized the shaft the TO bearing rides on was painted. The paint and or grease build up might be hanging up the complete return of the bearing.
I will also dig around to see if I can find the Toyota fork. Unfortunately, I dont see me avoiding dropping the tranny.
I will also dig around to see if I can find the Toyota fork. Unfortunately, I dont see me avoiding dropping the tranny.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I believe this is why your clutch is slipping and the slave is not fully retracting. It's not allowing the bearing to completely release from the pp. My guess is the T/O bearing and clutch fork is probably the problem. Is the bearing going beyond the trans bearing retainer, or the ID of the bearing is binding against the retainer. Toyota uses a collar to slide on the retainer, as in my previous pic.
gash05
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #25
Sorry for the delayed response. I got called offshore the day I put everything back together.
The mystery has been solved. Long story short, the clutch fork was slightly bent. It was difficult to identify without really close inspection.
The long story is that I ordered a new fork and ball from $pecter that matched the flywheel and pressure plate. I dropped the tranny and waited for the parts. When they came in, the parts were identical to the ones I removed. The fork was stamped steel and the pivot ball was the same as the one I removed. I was a little perplexed so I called SOR to make sure I ordered the right parts. They got me with a tech that was very fluent in all things FJ40. After 45 minutes on the phone, he was stumped. He kept leaning towards clutch adjustment covering one of the ports in the MC and not allowing the master to fully bleed. So, prior to my buddy bringing the tranny jack back over for re-installation I was staring at the two forks next to each other and comparing them at different angles. That is when I noticed that one of the fork fingers on the old fork were a little more than an 1/8th of an inch higher than the other one. It was hard to convince myself this was really the issue until I put a straight edge on it. As you can see in the pic below, it was evident there was a problem. Anyway, when my buddy came with the jack, we slapped everything back together and boom. Success. I did not do any other adjustments outside what I had tried prior to removing the tranny other than bleed the master/slave one last time. My theory is that the bent fork was putting more pressure on one side of the bearing and when the force of pressure plate diminished, it could not overcome the bearing being pushed on one side only and would hang up just shy of being fully retracted. I don't know for a fact if that is it, but it is working now. Thanks for everyone's help. I would most likely have never had realized the fork was bent without a new one to compare it to.
The mystery has been solved. Long story short, the clutch fork was slightly bent. It was difficult to identify without really close inspection.
The long story is that I ordered a new fork and ball from $pecter that matched the flywheel and pressure plate. I dropped the tranny and waited for the parts. When they came in, the parts were identical to the ones I removed. The fork was stamped steel and the pivot ball was the same as the one I removed. I was a little perplexed so I called SOR to make sure I ordered the right parts. They got me with a tech that was very fluent in all things FJ40. After 45 minutes on the phone, he was stumped. He kept leaning towards clutch adjustment covering one of the ports in the MC and not allowing the master to fully bleed. So, prior to my buddy bringing the tranny jack back over for re-installation I was staring at the two forks next to each other and comparing them at different angles. That is when I noticed that one of the fork fingers on the old fork were a little more than an 1/8th of an inch higher than the other one. It was hard to convince myself this was really the issue until I put a straight edge on it. As you can see in the pic below, it was evident there was a problem. Anyway, when my buddy came with the jack, we slapped everything back together and boom. Success. I did not do any other adjustments outside what I had tried prior to removing the tranny other than bleed the master/slave one last time. My theory is that the bent fork was putting more pressure on one side of the bearing and when the force of pressure plate diminished, it could not overcome the bearing being pushed on one side only and would hang up just shy of being fully retracted. I don't know for a fact if that is it, but it is working now. Thanks for everyone's help. I would most likely have never had realized the fork was bent without a new one to compare it to.
pbgbottle
Forum Lifer
Oops after posting I saw your reply above
Glad u got it fixed.
Chevy fork won’t fit and the Chevy TO will not slide onto the bearing retainer of a Toyota 4apd. Sounds like what he posted makes sense the TO is getting stuck. And not releasing. Also Toyota uses a stamped fork on the 4spds
Glad u got it fixed.
Chevy fork won’t fit and the Chevy TO will not slide onto the bearing retainer of a Toyota 4apd. Sounds like what he posted makes sense the TO is getting stuck. And not releasing. Also Toyota uses a stamped fork on the 4spds
