clutch pedal won't move

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Jun 30, 2008
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I just got me a 72 Cruiser, I let it sit for a few days and when I went out to drive it the clutch was sticky but improved with one push. Today I went out (after sitting for about a week) and the clutch pedal won't move. I tried prying on the fork from underneith while my daughter pushed on the pedal and it seems as if the problem might be in the line, (the fork would move a little but while she was steping on the clutch the thing that pushes on the fork wasn't moving) Any suggestions??
Thanks,
 
Welcome to Mud!

This site is full of awesome info and great people. There is a very useful search tool and frequently asked questions thread as well.

Post up some pictures of your rig!

Read these for some info on frozen clutch pedals

IH8MUD™ Forums - Search Results
 
Welcome to Mud!

This site is full of awesome info and great people. There is a very useful search tool and frequently asked questions thread as well.

Post up some pictures of your rig!

Read these for some info on frozen clutch pedals

IH8MUD™ Forums - Search Results

X2
This is a great site with tons of info.
Search is your friend.

And welcome to MUD. :flipoff2:
 
Am I doing something wrong?

I looked at those links but it showed (no match found) I also search before posting the question but didn't find anything.
So is my problem my clutch master cylinder?
Thanks for any replys
 
Try opening the bleeder on the slave cylinder and seeing if the pedal moves. If it does the problems your slave cylinder, if it doesn't move then start looking at your master cylinder. (be aware that the brake fluid will squirt out when you move the pedal.)


Kevin
 
Do yourself a favor and replace both the master and slave. CCOT has a complete conversion kit for $139 or $144 with new slave push rod.

CCOT
 
old rear main oil seal leak on Pilot bearing that got gummed up?

Any indication of oil at or around bottom of bell housing?

Any indication of loss of fluid in master cylinder?

Not sure what you meant by clutch was sticky but improved after first push?
 
Thanks

Thanks for the replys. About a week ago I got in to go for a ride and when I push on the clutch it was very hard to move, then it kindof broke loose and was fine after that. But this time it isn't moving at all. Now don't hate me for this question, but the master cylinder is the unit with the reservior on top, what is the slave cylinder?
Again, Thanks
 
slave

the slave cylinder is the one on the bottom, that actually moves the clutch fork. Baiscally, you push the pedal, which moves the master and pushes fluid through the line to the slave, which expands to move the clutch fork and engage the clutch. Easy to replace.

You might want to pick up a Factory Service Manual, or at least look at hte Spectre Off Road website for good exploded diagrams of your truck.

Happy Wrenching!
 
have you been in mud lately? if so your clutch could be hydro locked together. (like if you take 2 flat smooth surfaces together when wet and try to pull apart it can bee offly hard) its happened to me after parking my 40 overnight right after going into mud. i had to start it in gear and bump the clutch ang gas and it finaly seperated i looked like an idiot but it worked.
 
What does this mean?

Just got in from working of the cruiser, I tried to unscrew the bleed valve from the slave cylinder but it wouldn't budge, I sprayed with wd40 and will have a go tomorrow. I tried another suggestion that was given and tried starting the cruiser in gear, it started and did nothing, it was like I was in neutral but I wasn't, I went through all the gears with the clutch pedal still stuck out and it acted like I was in neutral, what does this mean??
 
Clutched engaged?

Since you seem to have the clutch engaged even with the pedal out it sounds like the slave cylinder is not releasing the pressure that is on it due to a malfunction with the cylinder or possibly a blockage?

try letting the pressure off the line and see if the clutch engages again
 
Just got in from working of the cruiser, I tried to unscrew the bleed valve from the slave cylinder but it wouldn't budge, I sprayed with wd40 and will have a go tomorrow. I tried another suggestion that was given and tried starting the cruiser in gear, it started and did nothing, it was like I was in neutral but I wasn't, I went through all the gears with the clutch pedal still stuck out and it acted like I was in neutral, what does this mean??

is the transfer case in Neutral?

follow PinHead's advice in this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/155200-clutch-pedal-frozen.html

Don't know what happened to that other link
 
Sounds like something that happned to me years ago. Clutch worked fine the day before, come back another day locked solid. This may have happened to you....

The rod that pushed the clutch (slave rod) somehow sliped off the clutch fork and forced the clutch fork into the pressure plate. My pedle was solid and the dang thing was in neutral. I had to remove the transmition cover to discover the problem. I found it because i had found another trans to replace what i thought was a bad trani......

crawl under and take a look at the part of the clutch fork that is exposed through the bellhousing. inspect the rod from the slave cyl. make sure the rod is centered on the clutch fork

good luck

here are some pics that may help Specter Off-Road-Land Cruiser Parts - Page 018-Clutch Components
 
"is the transfer case in Neutral?"


That would be a gotcha! too often the simple answer is the right one eh?;)
 
Nope transfer is in gear

Again, thanks for the replys. I checked the transfer (4-wheel drive gears) and it was in gear. From what I could tell, the push rod part from the slave cylinder is where it should be too. It sounds like the next step is to release pressure, (I assume this is done by unscrewing the bleed valve a bit) to see what that does. As mentioned before, the bleed valve is stuck so I'll spray some more lub on it and attack again tonight.
thanks all.
 
Try using a 6 point socket so not to destroy the bleeder. Any pressure should be released back through the master normally, your just checking to see if the problem is the master or the slave/clutch fork. If you can't open the bleeder you can loosen the fitting on the side of the clutch master cylinder just to see if the master moves.

Is the push rod tight on the clutch fork or is there play in it? Does the clutch fork look like it's at the back of the opening in the bell housing?(towards the rear of the cruiser) Sounds like your clutch is disengaged so your slave cylinder may be stuck fully extended.


Kevin
 
Last edited:
It was the slave cylinder

If anyone was wondering on the final verdict, the problem was with the slave cylinder. I replaced the slave, replaced and bleed fluid and I'm running again.
Thanks for everyone
 
If anyone was wondering on the final verdict, the problem was with the slave cylinder. I replaced the slave, replaced and bleed fluid and I'm running again.
Thanks for everyone


did you put a lubricant on the dry side of your clutch slane cylinder? Because the failure yo describe might happen again if it starts to rust there. Click on this link. I dealt with the same problem.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/224438-synthetic-brake-fluid-question.html
 

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