Clutch Not Engaging (1 Viewer)

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GUGISMAN

"Bury me in my FJ40..."
Joined
Sep 9, 2012
Threads
46
Messages
220
Location
Ponder, TX
My 69 FJ40 clutch has stopped engaging the drive train... no (barely moves in granny gear) momentum. Flywheel resurfaced, new pressure plate, disc, bearings less than 1000 miles ago. I've adjusted the push rod at the slave (over and over again) but engagement has been too high... near the top of the pedal. It was sort of O.K. but now nothing, after adjusting again today. No abnormal sounds; yes I have a stout return spring at the slave; yes the fork will push all the way and return; no I've never done anything to the master or slave. WTH??!! Have I made a rookie mistake??
3 new items by Eric Inman - https://photos.app.goo.gl/tcybaVacPywSJnex9
 
It sounds like when your pedal is at rest, it is still putting pressure on the pressure plate/fork. Have you removed the inspection cover and look inside?

Below is the clutch adjustment from the FSM. When it talks about pedal freeplay is when the slave initially starts to move.

20220711_211038.jpg
 
When they resurfaced the fly wheel did they make the corresponding cut for the pressure plate?

Seems to me you aren't getting the pressure plate to hold clutch plate to flywheel - bad release adjustment or an oil leak is making the clutch slip.

Make sure the transfer is in gear 2H or 4H.
 
Thank you pb4ugo,

That is a likely explanation but the push rod at the slave is fully retracted with no pressure on the TO bearing fork lever.
 
Have you looked up into the cover opening and make sure t/o bearing is free and not putting pressure on the p/p forks?
 
Just because the fork is released, doesn’t mean the throwout bearing is. I have seen the TO bearing cut a notch into the front bearing retainer of the transmission to the point that it catches, resulting in a loose fork, but an engaged hub/TO/PP.

Not something most people will ever see; I reckon I’ve seen more than most working on the same rigs for five decades.
 
Just because the fork is released, doesn’t mean the throwout bearing is. I have seen the TO bearing cut a notch into the front bearing retainer of the transmission to the point that it catches, resulting in a loose fork, but an engaged hub/TO/PP.
Ah, esteemed Elder Statesman. I'm about to peer in to the hidden area. Pics to follow. Thank you.
Not something most people will ever see; I reckon I’ve seen more than most working on the same rigs for five decades.
Nobody can/will argue that!
 
Followup, 101024 1646, views of the TO bearing, fork, slave + plunger, and clutch, in operation:

11 new items by Eric Inman - https://photos.app.goo.gl/nBKJCttehiRn9was9

(1735 hrs: Added another image that shows wear & hole on shaft)

Please let me know what, in the name of all that is holy, what I'm missing.

Afterthought: The transfer case is in neutral but I can not turn either drive shaft by hand. ??
 
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When they resurfaced the fly wheel did they make the corresponding cut for the pressure plate?

Seems to me you aren't getting the pressure plate to hold clutch plate to flywheel - bad release adjustment or an oil leak is making the clutch slip.
I'm starting to think this might be it. I don't want to think it, because of what it means I'd need to do... 🏳🏳🏳
Make sure the transfer is in gear 2H or 4H.
 
I think the t/o bearing should be sliding back further. The t/o bearing is still spinning when the pedal is is released. The bearing should not be in contact with the pp fingers when released. It looks there's a hole or something drilled in the trans bearing retainer shaft that the t/o bearing slides on. It's hard to see.
 
I think the t/o bearing should be sliding back further. The t/o bearing is still spinning when the pedal is is released. The bearing should not be in contact with the pp fingers when released. It looks there's a hole or something drilled in the trans bearing retainer shaft that the t/o bearing slides on. It's hard to see.

X2
I see a hole also
 
Are you saying you had been driving it with a new clutch with no issues for 1000 miles, and now the truck won’t move, and both drive shafts are locked? Or am I reading the original post wrong?
 
Are you saying you had been driving it with a new clutch with no issues for 1000 miles, and now the truck won’t move, and both drive shafts are locked? Or am I reading the original post wrong?
For the most part, yes (no, your not reading it wrong). Since the new clutch, I could never get the clutch engagement near the bottom of the pedal. I noticed today, when I was disconnecting the front drive shaft (transaxel in neutral, parking brake off, transmission in neutral) the front and rear shafts would not spin. (I may have misremembered but I though they should turn in that condition.)
 
I seem to recall a similar issue years ago and if I recall, my new (remanufactured) clutch assembly threw off the geometry of my clutch fork, meaning I had to put in a longer rod at the slave cylinder, to get back the full movement of the pressing plate and disc. Maybe that’s it, maybe not.
 

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