Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters (14 Viewers)

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Anybody know what brand/model number volt meter will fit in a stock 67 fj40 cluster. My amp meter is dead. Thanks
 
Hi!, this is my first post, ive been a lurker in this forum for quite a while and i found this thread to be awesome, i do have a question, has anyone found a solution to the -50+50 Ammeter?, i have a 1981 BJ40 and the PO had removed the fusible link and soldered a big red wire instead, i removed that and made my own fuse link and pluged the ammeter to both ends, it doesnt move at all it only flinchs a little when i turn on the lights and the engine is off.

Welcome to this forum and welcome to the madness.
To my knowledge nobody came up with a solution for this (your) problem.
It's a design flaw. The Ammeter is not sensitive enough to show the voltage drop over the Fusible Link.
ammeter diagram '79 and later1.JPG

I hope that you still have the two 5Amp fuses in series with your Ammeter? If the Fusible Link blows, the full current will go to and through the Ammeter and that means smoke in your cluster if the two fuse are not present.

Rudi

ammeter diagram '79 and later1.JPG
 
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Welcome to this forum and welcome to the madness.
To my knowledge nobody came up with a solution for this (your) problem.
It's a design flaw. The Ammeter is not sensitive enough to show the voltage drop over the Fusible Link.
View attachment 756122
I hope that you still have the two 5Amp fuses in series with your Ammeter? If the Fusible Link blows, the full current will go to and through the Ammeter and that means smoke in your cluster if the two fuse are not present.

Rudi

Thanks for the respone!, yeah i still have the 5A fusibles thanks god the po didnt take them off, here is a pic of my home made fuse link for what its worth!
20130415_140827.jpg
 
Ive been doing some testing on that and yeah the current that goes trough the ammeter is really really small, when the lights are on the current is about 200x10e(-6) A, there is no way its going to register, the problem is that the only way that we can direct more current to the ammeter is by increasing the resitance of the fusible link, and to do that we should just increase the lenght of it, very strange...
 
Ive been doing some testing on that and yeah the current that goes trough the ammeter is really really small, when the lights are on the current is about 200x10e(-6) A, there is no way its going to register, the problem is that the only way that we can direct more current to the ammeter is by increasing the resitance of the fusible link, and to do that we should just increase the lenght of it, very strange...

You came to the same conclusion as we did in postings #75 - #103.
The R_shunt (Fusible Link) should be 0.006Ω but it isn't.
When the current draw is 50 Amps it will create 300mV ( or 1Amp) for full scale needle movement. But........

Rudi
 
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/Wire.aspx

I found this a week or so ago. I anticipate numerous problems with my wiring as I see all sorts of funny business going on. Fingers crossed I get my 1970 FJ 40 back this coming week. It has been in the shop for five months, I only had it for a week (failed inspection). Most parts have been sourced from the USA and it takes time to clear customs. I also found a link for shrink wrap by the foot, meaning multiples of feet as opposed to most hardware stores which sell a two or three foot length maximum, if you need it. I am an old slot car, 1/8 scale gas car, hot rod and motorcycle enthusiast. I am not going to weigh in on the crimp connectors but I prefer soldered and shrink wrapped connections. There are many sources for new plugs, spade and/or bullet connectors as well.
 
Odometer dials

Hey, just wanted to add some information for FYI.

I ruined my odometer dials with some incompatible solvent trying to loosen up the gummy grease that had them locked up. Anyway, the other day I was at the junk yard and saw a 1975 Hilux truck and thought maybe the dials would be the same and they were! The little drive gear at the end of the dials is different but I just swapped it out for the one on my 76 dials and it works perfectly.

Now I have new odometer dials and it cost me $1.

Enjoy!

Don
 
This 1962 gauge cluster is original and I noticed a few things different. Interesting. fjfjfj

I doubt if this is an OEM cluster. I think it's a very nice refurbish job.
And..... I must admit..... it looks good!

Rudi
 
I'd have to agree with Rudi; I don't see any gauges in either left most or right most.

Looks very neat though.
 
Hello you guys,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Yes. Interesting case with my Gauge Cluster pictured above. A few things. 1) My high beam lense is green. 2) Both "oil and chg." lights are amber. 3) I notice my base, the part that incases the oil, temp, fuel and charge is whitish gray like the 1962. 4) I know the odom is correct and know the owner who I purchased from did not change anything out ( he owned it from 1965 to 2012 and it sat from 1968 without being driven ). 5) He remembers the neighbor owner in town who had it since new for his hunting business sold it with correct miles on it in 1965. 6) We did not have to restore anything on that entire cluster. Every aspect of it was extremely clean just like you see in the pics. I did of course paint the outside rim when I painted the cruiser. 7) Not sure why Toyota used a black face on this one with the whitish-gray bottom section. There was no indication of any changes when we opened it up. I certainly did not change anything. I am very picky about that. Interested to hear if you think Toyota would have used a black face on a 1962 cruiser and do you know if black face was used starting in 1963? It is all an interesting journey with regards to these old cruisers. We are almost done with the full restore of this cruiser. Nice thing? I started with a brilliant well taken care of original. Thanks for any idea's. From our research and seeing this one up close first hand? Toyota put this in back in 1962 at the factory. Nothing else seems reasonable from what we can see. I will do a bit more research though and change out the black IF I find that it is not original. So far though we are going with what was in there. What is the opinion of the MUD members. Thanks, FJFJFJ.
 
I doubt if this is an OEM cluster. I think it's a very nice refurbish job.
And..... I must admit..... it looks good!

Rudi

I think the verry early (pre64) high beam light lense was green not blue. On mobile for now so I can post a pic...

Looking back at my first posting in this thread makes me change my opinion.
If I compare fjfjfj's cluster with this one
1962 with oil & charge lights.JPG


I see the green high beam indicator as giraffe said and looking at other pre'64 clusters I now also see that the text face plate is silverish with black text. I also see that on the '64 cluster the face plates (gauges and speedo) are black so all in all it's now a nice puzzle.
Time for more pictures from that era.

Rudi

1962 with oil & charge lights.JPG
 
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FJFJFJ / 1962 gauge cluster questions

Hello you guys,,,,,,,,,,,Here is a straight on pic of my gauge cluster. A little easier to see. Yes on green lense, whitish gray area around the bottom. As mentioned, original miles on the odom. An extremely clean original. I got lucky. Thanks bj40green for checking things out again. Let's see what gets weighed in here. Thanks everyone. Obviously I want the restoration to be period correct and unless I get more info I will be sticking with this age old cluster that I know has been in there, unchanged since at least 1965 and I think has NOT been changed since original in 1962, at least I know the odom never got touched and from our review nothing in that cluster got changed out. Thanks for everyones input. FJFJFJ
dave62gaugeclustergood.jpg
 
Hi Travis,

That must be the one from your '64 FJ40 right?
Is that the kit from Amaurer?
New OIL, TEMP and VOLT gauges and keeping the OEM Fuel gauge?

I assume that you want to point out that on your 64 cluster you have a Blue High Beam indicator lens?

Rudi
 
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Hello you guys,,,,,,,,,,,Here is a straight on pic of my gauge cluster. A little easier to see. Yes on green lense, whitish gray area around the bottom. As mentioned, original miles on the odom. An extremely clean original. I got lucky. Thanks bj40green for checking things out again. Let's see what gets weighed in here. Thanks everyone. Obviously I want the restoration to be period correct and unless I get more info I will be sticking with this age old cluster that I know has been in there, unchanged since at least 1965 and I think has NOT been changed since original in 1962, at least I know the odom never got touched and from our review nothing in that cluster got changed out. Thanks for everyones input. FJFJFJ

What keeps me busy is that '59 till '62 have both face plates light gray with black text.
'64 and later have both face plates black with white text.
How come / why is your cluster a bi color? Production change?
Interesting to find out.

Rudi
 
A few things come to mind…. Toyota makes lots of subtle changes …. Toyota makes changes due to location …. Toyota would sell older model trucks later than the given model year …You also need to look at when produced and when sold … its common to find trucks sold/titled several years after … could be somethings were changed to give the appearance for being a newer model… just some quick thoughts
 
Hi Travis,

That must be the one from your '64 FJ40 right?
Is that the kit from Amaurer?
New OIL, TEMP and VOLT gauges and keeping the OEM Fuel gauge?

I assume that you want to point out that on your 64 cluster you have a Blue High Beam indicator lens?

Rudi

Boy that's weird... Had a description with my pictures last night but its gone this morning. Yes, '64 w/ blue HBI & it is the kit from Amaurer.
 

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