Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters

[FouadHafeez]

I'm planning on the OEM Cluster with some minor tweaks, Rudi. Part of the "stock, yet not quite" design philosophy.

Some of those clusters are really cool-looking. Thanks for the food for thought!

 

[dadbeau]

The digital displays in the stock is hot. What displays were used?

 

[bj40green]

Hi Dad,

I found the pic here: -► https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/379578-new-gauge-cluster-fj40.html

Good luck,

Rudi

 

[esh]

I think my next setup (for the 40 or for my pickup) will include the VDO Viewline Onyx speedo and quad gauge for starters. The speedo has lights for signals, high beams, etc. I really like the out of production Vanguard quad I used in the diesel swap. These are a marine line but work great in cars.

Add a small tach in the middle and a vacuum gauge and I'm set. They sell chrome, white, or black bezels in a number of sizes so your setup can suit your style.

(let's see if VDO protects from image linking)

I like the Autometer speedo/tach gauge a lot, but their quad gauge looks funky to me.

 

[esh]

Another possibility. These guys do custom gauges for about the same cost as some of the new aftermarket stuff. They build them for Porsches but they should work with anything. Bonus is you can specify any combination of any type of gauge you want.

http://www.newvintageusa.com/bigmarkdesigngauges.html

The RPM/turbo pressure combo gauge is NICE. Would need to investigate if they can make one without sending in a core, unless you have access to some junked 914s.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Thanks as in: thanks for the tip
or
Thanks as in: thanks it works

Rudi

Thanks for the tip. My autometer light socket actually broke right out of the box (the terminal) and I'm waiting for a replacement to arrive in the mail.

 

[73tlcv8]

Inside the Oil Pressure Sender

moved to this thread as Rudi requested. Good to keep it in one place.

In the process of trying to work out my non functional oil pressure gauge, I took the cap off one of the senders I have. This is a bi-metalic regulator. As pressure increases the stationary contact moves closer to the moving contact on the bi-metalic strip. So, as pressure increases it takes more current through the heater wire to get the contact to open, thus more current through the oil pressure gauge. My gauge is a little sticky at the zero end so I was never getting enough current to move the needle. Grounding the oil pressure gauge wire was enough current to get the gauge to deflect but not getting enough through the sender. I pictured the sender as a variable resistor but it is a point type current regulator similar to the one in the fuel gauge. That's why the light blinks when testing.

Sorry for the bad picture, my camera sucks.

I also noted the old sender has an UP arrow stamped on it, the new one does not.

 

[wombat]

This question might have been asked already but i have a 76 that the speedo is in mph and if i can find a 78 and newer cluster that is in kph is it a simple swap over or are there mods involved?

 

[bj40green]

This question might have been asked already but i have a 76 that the speedo is in mph and if i can find a 78 and newer cluster that is in kph is it a simple swap over or are there mods involved?

Use this pic as a reference. If 100 Miles and 160 KM are the end of the scale you can swap them out.

Just pull the needle, remove 2 tiny screws and your done.

Rudi

 

[78fj40mg]

Great thread Rudi thank you!

 

[allforcruisen]

Any ideas on where to get new seals that hold the glass in place? These are brittle and I'm afraid they will be ruined even when taking them off carefully.

If i didn't need to refurb the bezel I would just leave them in or maybe enhance with sealer but it really needs replaced for the long run. Any ideas welcomed and appreciated.

 

[bj40green]

Maybe you can find some soft rubber hose and cut it open in length.

my 0.02c

Rudi

 

[allforcruisen]

Thanks Rudy,

You know i found some rubber uchannel that might work pretty well. I will order some and give it a try and post results. Looks like it will work fine.

Rob

 

[bj461a]

I have obtained a spare cluster and have some questions.
1.) Were any face plates every Black from the factory? The one I just picked up is black and appears to have no silver under neath of the black paint.

2.) Not sure what year it came out of. #'s in the back are as follows

83109 60071

69701-810

It has a circle with 48 10 CA as well.

Guy rolled his cruiser and I got a skid plate and the Gage cluster the rest was gone or bent badly.

ThX for any info you mudders can provide

 

[bj40green]

I did a search for the number 83109-60071 but nothing came up.
A pic would be helpful.

Rudi

 

[2thdoc]

I want to make new wires to replace the black and and white ones pictured here. What gauge wire are they (it doesn't say on the insulation)? Anyone care to give me a quick tutorial on wire gauge measurement. Also, where can I get good quality wiring/terminal components?

 

[lostmarbles]

I did a search for the number 83109-60071 but nothing came up.
A pic would be helpful.

Rudi

I think the first number will be 83100 rather than 83109 so perhaps the second number is erroneous too.

83100-60072 comes up in a search but with 60071 I see nothing.

On mine the last zero in the first number could easily be mistaken for a nine:

 

[lostmarbles]

I want to make new wires to replace the black and and white ones pictured here. What gauge wire are they (it doesn't say on the insulation)? Anyone care to give me a quick tutorial on wire gauge measurement. Also, where can I get good quality wiring/terminal components?

Automotive shops should sell coils of automotive wire but here at least the colour choice is extremely limited. So I prefer to rip an old loom out of a wrecked car to get a good selection of gauges and colours.

I just match the gauge by eye (comparing the diameters of the copper rather than over-all diameters because insulation thickness may vary).

And I learnt to avoid some cars (for example the Russian Lada) because their wiring looked inferior quality.

As for terminal components ... that's very tricky/difficult. You should be able to get some of what you want from a place like this:
http://www.vintageconnections.com/

 

[longbow]

Rudi,

I can't thank you enough for posting up all this great info!

Two weeks ago I was considering replacing everything with aftermarket gauges because the only thing that worked was the Amp gauge and that is the one that I really have no use for.

Flash to today and all gauges are working great and I replaced the amp gauge with a voltmeter that I found on a suzuki something at the junkyard and it matches pretty decent.

I had to get out the multimeter and soldering iron and a couple of new senders and clean a bunch of corroded contacts, but now everything works great. Painted all needles to match and everything looks back to new. Unfortunately my odometer was jammed up and I got it all loosened with some solvent, but it was a little too strong and removed half the numbers before I realized it was happening. Oh well, at least all the gauges work now.

Thanks again Rudi, this thread is a lifesaver.

Now does anyone have a spare set of odometer dials?

Don

 

[Nekrataal]

Hi!, this is my first post, ive been a lurker in this forum for quite a while and i found this thread to be awesome, i do have a question, has anyone found a solution to the -50+50 Ammeter?, i have a 1981 BJ40 and the PO had removed the fusible link and soldered a big red wire instead, i removed that and made my own fuse link and pluged the ammeter to both ends, it doesnt move at all it only flinchs a little when i turn on the lights and the engine is off.