Cleaning lock assemblies (1 Viewer)

[leonard_nemoy]

I decided to swap a lock actuator to try and fix a broken lock.

After getting the assembly out I am not sure the actuator is entirely at fault. The lock mechanism is stupid crusty and sticky. I was thinking of spraying it out with some brake clean or carb cleaner followed by a spray of lube.

Who has cleaned and lubed their lock assemblies? What's your process?

 

[Kernal]

I prefer to use either CRC Electronics cleaner or CRC (Red can) Brake cleaner (not the green can as that's Acetone.). The Red can is Trichloroethylene, easier on rubber and plastic parts than Acetone or Toluene.

Then regrease with you're choice, I've used Dupont Molykote 33 Medium. It's a lithium base silicone grease (no Molybdenum in it, that's just the brand name).

If the motor section is at fault you can open up the black box and check it out, others' have replaced the motor. Try a search.

OR, buy a replacement AISIN motor (rear only) from RockAuto (is that a new motor in the photo above?)

More Information for AISIN DLT088

More Information for AISIN DLT089

 

[leonard_nemoy]

I prefer to use either CRC Electronics cleaner or CRC (Red can) Brake cleaner (not the green can as that's Acetone.). The Red can is Trichloroethylene, easier on rubber and plastic parts than Acetone or Toluene.

Then regrease with you're choice, I've used Dupont Molykote 33 Medium. It's a lithium base silicone grease (no Molybdenum in it, that's just the brand name).

If the motor section is at fault you can open up the black box and check it out, others' have replaced the motor. Try a search.

OR, buy a replacement AISIN motor (rear only) from RockAuto (is that a new motor in the photo above?)

More Information for AISIN DLT088

More Information for AISIN DLT089

Yep, new actuator is installed and locks work now. I just want to clean and lube the assembly before I button up the door.

 

[Kernal]

Blast it with the CRC Red can of Electronics cleaner (safe for most plastics IME, test it first), lube with Molykote 33 Medium (33 Light if you live in Siberia). Same lube aircraft mechanics use on some pivot points. It's different than any cheapo silicone lube in an aerosol can or what you might find at a big box hardware store.

About the only sources are online like SkyGeek, Motion Industries or McMaster Carr.

DUPONT™ MOLYKOTE® 33 Medium Off-White Extreme Low Temperature Grease - 150 Gram (5.3 oz) Tube

DOW® 4016023 MOLYKOTE® 33 Medium Off-White Extreme Low Temperature Grease - 150 Gram (5.3 oz) Tube - Visit and view our entire SkyGeek, Shop Supplies, Grease, DOW® Molykote™ 33 Light & Medium Extreme Low Temperature Grease, section at SkyGeek!

skygeek.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

https://www.motion.com/products/sku/00781270

 

[Pascoscout]

I like to use foaming engine degreaser and a small plastic or brass bristle brush and then blast it clean with contact cleaner. I figure if the engine degreaser is safe on the plastic and rubber parts in the engine bay it's not gonna hurt anything on the lock sets either. I usually lube with hoodinie lock lube but I'll have to check out that Molykote.

 

[ERG80]

I use small cloths and toothbrushes and clean it as best as possible without any kind of cleaner. Then smear too much molykote 33 all over and move the mechanism to get it distributed on the moving parts. Molykote is Really good stuff and made my sticky rear door lock work perfectly again.

When I saw the title I was thinking key lock mechanism. For those I use Toyotamatts instructions he gives with new keys and it made a huge difference.

OEM Factory Key Code Cutting Service & Re-Coding & Re-Keying 80 Series Ignition Lock Cylinder , Lock and Key Tech.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Kernal]

Agree with above statements, a brush and a detergent type cleaner would work well also and may be safer; that junk on the actuator mechanism is old dried up grease mixed with dirt/dust.

The Quick Dry Electronics cleaner IME is the safest around rubber and plastics, it's pure Hexane which is normally a gas at room temperature and pressure, evaporates instantly. I use that for the MAF or harness connectors, but it doesn't work very well to remove crud.

So yeah, you have to be careful with any solvent around plastic/rubber bits.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Thanks for the good info. I am off work tomorrow so I will hit up the local Napa and get whatever they have in stock that seems the best.

 

[Malleus]

Home Depot carries the CRC Plastic safe electronics cleaner, but I agree with @Kernal it's never worked for me to clean crud.

Superzilla is supposed to clean and lubricate, and is supposedly safe for all materials (I don't know how it cleans and is safe at the same time, but that's advertising for you). I bought some at Ace Hardware to do my own Project Farm tests, but my purely unscientific tests reveal it's more of a mess maker than anything else. It does free up stuck brake fittings, though. Not that that helps with your locks, but...

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Well after removing the one lock assembly I got it cleaned up pretty good with some picks and brushes and I lubed it up with some lock lube I had on hand.

I re installed the lock assembly with the new actuator and It worked good enough.

After holding the assembly in hand I wouldn't worry about plastic safe cleaner if your actually removing the assembly from the door.

It seems the proper maintenance would include removing the lock assemblies and cleaning them with a de greaser of your choice and relubing the assembly with a grease of some sort.

But I am lazy and I didn't feel like removing all of my lock assemblies that work fine. So I opted to peel back the vapor barrier and attempt to clean the assemblies with some crc parts cleaner and than I sprayed them with crc power lube. It definitely made a difference in the lock assemblies but I feel this method is just maintenance until you have to remove the lock assembly to fix it.