Clean, Simple, Easy Option for Sliders - LCP Rails (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 1, 2016
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Location
Utah Valley
I’ve been looking for sliders but had no idea what direction I wanted to go. The one thing I did know though is that I am not going to be doing any crazy rock crawling with my LC. Eventually I spotted this post from @pjess50 and knew those were the sliders I wanted.


I contacted @LandCruiserPhil and he hooked me up with a set, he was even nice enough to get them out the door right before leaving on a big trip.


It took me a while to get them on, but the project itself was fairly simple. I like to take my time, but I also don’t really care for perfection so I tend to slap things together.


Here are the steps I took (With LOTS of pictures) to install them:


Step 1 - Tape bolts up. Clean rails with something (I used mineral spirits). They come already primered so you just need to paint/powdercoat to your liking.

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Step 2 - PAINT! I bought some black spray paint & put on a few coats. I did a little too much and it seems to easily drip due to the cylindrical shape so there are some drip marks along the rails but whatever ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Step 3 - After dry, line rails up against the body. It’s pretty clear where they go. One thing of note is that at least on my LC (93 FZJ80) there was a curve in the pinch weld near the front tire. It’s VERY important that you line the rails up so that the flat part starts AFTER the curve. Otherwise it will not sit flush against the body & will not bolt up properly. If you line the back of the rail up with the pinch weld the front should line up perfect.

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Step 4 - Once lined up properly, place pieces of tape on the body. Mark exactly where the bolts are touching the frame. One thing I noticed is not all the bolts are 100% parallel. Once I drilled holes and stuck it in, one bolt might be a tag angled upward or to the side. So several times I had to expand the drilled holes in order to get it to go through and sit flush. (This actually might not be due to the bolts but the problem described in step 5)

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Step 5 - Drill holes. I started smaller holes with a ¼” bit and then expanded them to a 5/16” bit. Another important note…. Sometimes the pinch weld would have areas where there would be two sheets of metal rather than one. So for example some holes it would drill through fine. But there were a few where the top half of where I was drilling was two sheets so the bit would slide down and create the hole much further down than I planned. If I were to do it again, I would just look at the backside of the hole I will be drilling and note if there are any overlapping pieces that will cause the bit to slide. Drill slow otherwise you will just drill right down & blast a hole in your pinch weld.


Step 6 - I don’t drink so for step 6 I just go on a motorcycle ride :)
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Step 7- I recommend spraying a bit of paint into the holes you just drilled. Otherwise they’ll rust and your sliders will fall off.


Step 8 - Put a drop of loctite on the threads and tighten the bolts. Torque bolts at 22ft lbs (hand tight).


A few more notes:

By moving the slider back to avoid the curve in the pinch weld, it ends up being right next to the rear wheel well but several inches away from the front wheel well. I don’t mind, but it might drive some people crazy.

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On mine I had an exhaust guard I had to remove before installing the rails. Two bolts, really easy. Gunna be replacing the exhaust anyway.
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End result:

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Here is a post from Phil himself on installing the sliders.
Feeler – 100 series lightweight, high clearance, low cost Rock Rail/Sliders


They are $350 shipped in the lower 48. Message @LandCruiserPhil as they are not available on his website.


Will post an update if/when they help protect me from something. But I am not planning on it, these are more for emergencies rather than a weekend thing. Although I did get pretty close to needing them this past weekend… both tacomas with me had their sliders on the ground but I am up high enough it wasn’t a big deal.


Enjoy! Post your pics here if you have/get them.
 
Nicely done! Words of wisdom as far as gradually increasing the size of the bits when you drill. I was one of those that tried to drill too much, too fast and ended up blowing out the bottom of the pinch weld on one of the holes.
 
Yeah took me a few blowouts to figure out what was happening. I noticed the backside upper part had more metal to drill through. So on the others I just held super steady and went slow.
 
do you know if these would fit with the mud flaps installed on the truck, I still have mine on since they haven't been ripped off yet.

also is that an xr650 I see?
 
Nice work, definitely cheaper than my $1000 white knuckles. One area I dig about mine is that my cat converter is housed in a cage, if you go up on your slider there you can assume that the cat will be getting sheared quite a bit.
 
Nice work, definitely cheaper than my $1000 white knuckles. One area I dig about mine is that my cat converter is housed in a cage, if you go up on your slider there you can assume that the cat will be getting sheared quite a bit.

I plan to cut and turn the exhaust so I can tuck it up high. I did this on my previous cruiser then proceeded to beat the hell out of the rocker panels.
 
Nice work, definitely cheaper than my $1000 white knuckles. One area I dig about mine is that my cat converter is housed in a cage, if you go up on your slider there you can assume that the cat will be getting sheared quite a bit.

The white knuckles will actually do something. These are essentially worthless - the factory rocker will tolerate more punishment than these.

To each their own but I am not even that financially judicious and these seem like highway robbery to me
 
These seem to close to the body to me. Every set of sliders I have had have had a gap and stuck out farther from the vehicle to provide more protection.
80sliders.JPG
 
Don't get me wrong, this product is better than no slider. It really depends on what you want to do with it. If you plan on doing intermediate wheeling, you need something that protrudes a bit, has a gap for give and take as you can drop down and smack the slider at times. If you are doing light wheeling then this product might be ok for you. It really depends on you and your needs

80sliders2.JPG
 
So these bolt into the body of the vehicle?
 
@weejub yes they bolt on to the pinch weld area

@bigredmachine not sure about the mudflaps, @LandCruiserPhil?

and no, it's a Suzuki DR650, just sold it to my brother and bought a KTM 950 :)
 
If your plan is to run buggy trails, use the hold my beer approach and body damage is of no concern our rails are NOT for you.

If you DD, camp, travel, and appearance is important with your 80/100 series they will work for most. Everything has limits....

I have run numerous popular well known trails in Ca, UT, NM, and CO without damage. The rails owners I have talked with rarely see any contact partly to 2'+ of addition clearance over step type sliders. But for anyone to say they are not effective is just hate. I personal invite anyone to come out, lets go wheeling and I will add you to the believers list. I have made rail contact many times, posted pictures, and my 80 is still very nice and clean.
 
These seem to close to the body to me. Every set of sliders I have had have had a gap and stuck out farther from the vehicle to provide more protection.
View attachment 1597770

A typical 3/4" gap allows differential movement between body and FRAME mounted sliders. Body mounted sliders like LCP's do not require a gap = more clearance. Most drag steel because of this. But, kick-outs have saved me from carnage a few times and made me a believer.

LCP's look like a great LIGHT option for those tamer or more experienced. Cutting the rocker out and replacing with HSS like others have done is another option that would also allow kick-outs. Not bolt-on though.
 
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A typical 3/4" gap allows differential movement between body and FRAME mounted sliders. .

Ahh, thanks for that detail. I missed it

Phil having a technical discussion in Tech doesn't make folks a hater as long as it is done respectfully. I was posting based on my experience. They are a good product for those whose need it fits. I would be Leary about running this on the Rubicon where kick outs help you not only in protection but providing a platform to spin the vehicle from. I wouldn't have an issue on most trails in Moab
 
Ahh, thanks for that detail. I missed it

Phil having a technical discussion in Tech doesn't make folks a hater as long as it is done respectfully. I was posting based on my experience. They are a good product for those whose need it fits. I would be Leary about running this on the Rubicon where kick outs help you not only in protection but providing a platform to spin the vehicle from. I wouldn't have an issue on most trails in Moab

100% agree▲
I have set of "Rubicon" boat style SLIDERS with kick outs in the works I feel I will need/use for the Rubicon in 2018:steer:
 
I really like this design, one more option for both 80's and 100's. On most trails, sliders are like the curb feelers from the 70's. Once you make contact, you can backup are readjust your line. 2 inches of additional rocker clearance is the same as going from 32 to 36 inch tires. These rigs are very heavy, sometimes there is not enough traction to overcome the weight and slide forward using a traditional rock slider. So you have to back up and readjust your line. With 2 additional inches of clearance you might crawl right past it.

I would seriously think about running these. I however need a step slider to access the roof rack. I had mine made as wide as the kickout on most sliders.
 
100% agree▲
I have set of "Rubicon" boat style SLIDERS with kick outs in the works I feel I will need/use for the Rubicon in 2018:steer:
Wait, tell me more. I like the look and simplicity of these. But the more I think about it the more I feel like my wife and daughter need something to step on to get up in the rig. Plus with my pending lift, I might need that too. Like @Newps just said, maybe I need something to reach the roof too.
 

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