Builds "Chunk+12ht" version 2.0 (1 Viewer)

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What is the deal with those tabs on the rear shock crossmember? If those are for shocks I wouldn't use them, you'll loose a lot of damping with that angle. Otherwise coming along great. Handy to have a powdercoat business for this hobby :hmm:
 
What is the deal with those tabs on the rear shock crossmember? If those are for shocks I wouldn't use them, you'll loose a lot of damping with that angle. Otherwise coming along great. Handy to have a powdercoat business for this hobby :hmm:

Those tabs are getting chopped off. I don't know what they were for but they are pretty scketchy.

It is a huge help having the powder coating shop to do parts. Also, the customers/friends that I have met that I coat for are a great fabrication resource.

I used to do restorations on cars (mostly muscle cars) for a shop before I went off in the powder coat biz, so it is kinda fun doing all this stuff again. I did restore a Korean war era Willys personnel carrier for a private museum of the company that built the bodies, and a couple of other trucks, but about the only things I want to work on anymore are Cruisers.
 
I made a very quick and cobbled c-clamp attachment for my 4 ton porta power and pinched the frame back down in the back where it was pushed out from rust between it and the reinforcement plate. For not a lot of rust, it sure pushed open. The clamp works great. The duck bill attachment works nice to open the reinforcement plate back up too.
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I got the the tabs cut off the shock tube and some old welds from previous mods ground off one side. The driver's side engine mount was also welded in. It was a little rough from being cut out of another frame but was able to make it look pretty decent. Next I have to flip the frame over on its cart and do the other side. Out of time for more today though.
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I had a chance to reblast the frame yesterday afternoon. I was at the shop Saturday working on racks and my employee that does the sandblast work was making up some time because it was too cold to work out there this week. I had him leave the gear out when he was done so I could get my blasting done. Today I got it hot powerwashed with the iron phosphate coating and then the seal rinse.
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Into the oven to bake dry then I will do the zinc epoxy primer. After that, I'm going to plug threaded holes and lay down the first round of satin black so I can start sanding out pits and imperfections. Won't take much, it is a really nice frame.
 
And zinc epoxy primer done. Not pretty, but functional. Hopefully tomorrow I can get layer one of the black on.
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Pat, you're making me want to start a powdercoating business. It's a perfect compliment for restoring cars and trucks! Definite facility envy...

Haha, it has some nice perks, for sure. The downside is we are so busy here I feel like a criminal in my own shop for taking up space with my own stuff. I try not to keep anything here long and work nights and weekends on my stuff, which works fine because that's pretty much Bowfin's work time too. That said, I have an employee on vacation and I'm coating parts in his booth today. Just so happens I have to do some satin black soooo I will be putting the first layer of black on Chunk's frame while on that color. Small victories.
 
I got the first layer of satin black on today. I put the gun nozzle in every open spot I could find and let it rip
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I put a nice thick layer on the outside and at the end of the day I got close to half of the frame sanded smooth. Once I'm done I will flip it over on the rack and do the other side. In the picture you can see how smooth it is after sanding and the pitted finish in the picture of an unsanded part.
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Pat everything looks great! I hope i don't mess you up by suggesting this but any thoughts of maybe welding on some 4plus slider brackets while its not 100% finished? I'm going to on mine.

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I have thought about it. I may use the sliders I have made for my 80, at least the outside part with new brackets. I debated on welding brackets on. The 80 sliders have heavy plates that sandwich to the frame and work great so I was thinking the same for the 60. I think that will work, but not sure since I have never put sliders on a 60.

I'll dig up a picture.
 
Here's the 80 slider. I like the square tube as a step.

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Does that design use plates on the other side of the frame and then thru bolted? Or U-bolts? I'm trying to come up with a no-weld solution for my Tacoma. Thanks,
 
your place looks awesome in the pictures by the way....any more photos of the house and garage? I've been on a building/construction kick lately and am wanting to build a timber frame cabin in Colorado and shop at my house next year.

Thanks!

I'll dig some up. It was supposed to be a different deal altogether but ending up starting as a Cape Cod-ish house with rafters and dormers upstairs. Stained concrete floors with radiant heat. I added on a few years back and did the breezeway, new garage with room above, a new living room add on off the back and a screened porch.

Totally lucky timing that a buddy was tearing down the oldest commercial structure (at the time) in Ionia County MI. It was a metal shop on the edge of the railroad with the prison up the street. It had an underground tunnel they used to march prisoners down to for work detail. He was just going to rip it down and haul to a landfill. I wound up scoring tons of beams and 3x13 joists of old growth white pine, plus lots of other stuff. I have the posts all over (with stuff carved in em from prisoners back in the day), the joists made my countertops, porch rafters, staircase, some furniture and such. When I built the original house and when I added on, a buddy of mine was laid off as a trim carpenter and he did crazy awesome trim that we made. Traded a pickup for the work both times!

I subscribed to Fine Homebuilding for years and used ideas there on stuff I have done, plus lots of trips to the parade of homes in high dollar developments. I just figured out ways to do off the hook high priced stuff on the cheap.

I'll try to find some pictures.
 
So @roma042987 , a place in Colorado huh? If you want real cedar shakes on that house, I would work for beer and a cot in the garage for me and Buddy the lab. Plus a couple of wheeling tours! I have nothing but free time LOL
 
Does that design use plates on the other side of the frame and then thru bolted? Or U-bolts? I'm trying to come up with a no-weld solution for my Tacoma. Thanks,

They are plates and 1/2" bolts. Two above and two below per mount. It is really tight getting to all of them on the 80 and I suspect the 60 is the same but it works well.
 

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