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Choke cable variations
- Thread starter 65swb45
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NEW WARM PULL HEATER CONTROL VALVE PUSH / PULL CABLE Part # 87286-60111 Made with ALL OEM ALL JAPAN MADE PARTS Fits 9/73-1984 FJ40 FJ45 ( OLD Disc. / NLA. Part # 's 87286-60100 / 87286-60101 ) - VintageTEqParts.com
NEW Warm Pull Cable HEATER CONTROL VALVE PUSH / PULL type application PART # 87286-60111 - Made with ALL OEM...
vintageteqparts.com
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i have a few nifty recent on-topic updates to share ,
the whole broad brush Vintage Land Cruiser Choke Cable 's topic has seen a new and often scary thing happen people call SNIPER .....
well .....
mr. OEM here will not ever go there , so i will continue to evolve as the latest TECHNOLOGY and forward thinking progressive approach , i roll by stays lazer focused on all things 78310 & 78410 for eternity ......
THIS IS THE WAY ......
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the whole broad brush Vintage Land Cruiser Choke Cable 's topic has seen a new and often scary thing happen people call SNIPER .....
well .....
mr. OEM here will not ever go there , so i will continue to evolve as the latest TECHNOLOGY and forward thinking progressive approach , i roll by stays lazer focused on all things 78310 & 78410 for eternity ......
THIS IS THE WAY ......
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CHOKE CABLE Assy. Part # 78310-60011 Fits ALL 1962-12/74 FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 F1.5 Engine Carburetors w/ a SOLID CORE CABLE Type Butterfly Attachment Point - VintageTEqParts.com
NEW OEM Type Modern CHOKE CABLE Assy. Part # 78310-60011 Fits ALL : 1967-12/74 FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 ALL F...
vintageteqparts.com
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CHOKE CABLE Assy. Part # 78310-60011 Fits ALL 1962-12/74 FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 F1.5 Engine Carburetors w/ a SOLID CORE CABLE Type Butterfly Attachment Point - VintageTEqParts.com
NEW OEM Type Modern CHOKE CABLE Assy. Part # 78310-60011 Fits ALL : 1967-12/74 FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 ALL F...
vintageteqparts.com
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This little rascal below is from my experience the most unique, rare and tougher then tough to correctly restore to period correct standards …
The recessed face bell
profile is a MOTHER to clean , prep , install my “ NASA “ grade white pigment and then final Sassy Lassie the entire bell profile out making dam sure both those bananas 
stay even-steven font-logo period correct details that matter and matter do the details here for sure ….
I have never seen another Japanese auto or motor mounted anything let alone the big 3 under Toyota now , have any kind of bananas looking Control Cables knob logo like the one below ?
Perhaps that is why I am fond of it and it’s hand throttle buddy too ..
The recessed face bell
profile is a MOTHER to clean , prep , install my “ NASA “ grade white pigment and then final Sassy Lassie the entire bell profile out making dam sure both those bananas stay even-steven font-logo period correct details that matter and matter do the details here for sure ….I have never seen another Japanese auto or motor mounted anything let alone the big 3 under Toyota now , have any kind of bananas
looking Control Cables knob logo like the one below ?Perhaps that is why I am fond of it and it’s hand throttle buddy too ..
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as always ,
thanks uncle Mark for creating this very very special place for all this & all that 78310 , 78410 ….
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thanks uncle Mark for creating this very very special place for all this & all that 78310 , 78410 ….
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Matt, you bring up an EXTREMELY esoteric point, one that I didn’t think we’d ever see discussed on this forum.
Hundreds if not thousands of people who have bought carburetor kits from Keyster to try and rebuild a carburetor themselves have received a gasket in their kit for the plate located on the side of the choke butterfly. Hundreds of them have unnecessarily disassembled the choke, breaking the set screws in the process, trying to replace the gasket, which virtually NEVER NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. Why is that gasket even in the kit?
Because that gasket IS replaced when you are rebuilding the carburetor IF IT HAS BEEN FITTED WITH AN AUTOMATIC CHOKE! While the automatic choke is prevalent on Toyota passenger vehicles, it is truly a unicorn on the Landcruiser. In almost 40 years of rebuilding Landcruiser carburetors I have seen…ONE!
Folks, the takeaway from this is, if you’re trying to rebuild your carburetor yourself, and you have that gasket in your kit, save yourself a lot of unnecessary heartburn and THROW IT AWAY!
This PSA brought to you by www.marksoffroad.net
Hundreds if not thousands of people who have bought carburetor kits from Keyster to try and rebuild a carburetor themselves have received a gasket in their kit for the plate located on the side of the choke butterfly. Hundreds of them have unnecessarily disassembled the choke, breaking the set screws in the process, trying to replace the gasket, which virtually NEVER NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. Why is that gasket even in the kit?
Because that gasket IS replaced when you are rebuilding the carburetor IF IT HAS BEEN FITTED WITH AN AUTOMATIC CHOKE! While the automatic choke is prevalent on Toyota passenger vehicles, it is truly a unicorn on the Landcruiser. In almost 40 years of rebuilding Landcruiser carburetors I have seen…ONE!
Folks, the takeaway from this is, if you’re trying to rebuild your carburetor yourself, and you have that gasket in your kit, save yourself a lot of unnecessary heartburn and THROW IT AWAY!
This PSA brought to you by www.marksoffroad.net
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Mark ,
i was intrigued by the whole article and step by step instructions as a whole ....
the 22R RN6# Crowd would be at some curious benefit level here , i was hoping you saw this because when it comes to being esoteric in nature you and I come from the Shire , intended for or likely to be understood by only a small number of people with a specialized knowledge or interest.
so sparking a new and exciting discussion topic and positive educational format here where is it purely on-topic is what i hope and know you can add and do bring to the table here in our special little place you created for us many years ago , to in part help me evolve and grow technically in a practical hands-on way that it it indeed seams i have and will continue to do so , as my passion for anything that has a black knob on it and a precise Push-Pull Throw factor to it at the end of its thick thick brass feral end cap .....
you should know that you created a place that the revolution of evolution for all things 78310- & 78410- , 78302 , & 78402-, 78311- & 78410- will keep on keeping on for the long term foreseeable future ...
thank you Uncle Mark ...
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i was intrigued by the whole article and step by step instructions as a whole ....
the 22R RN6# Crowd would be at some curious benefit level here , i was hoping you saw this because when it comes to being esoteric in nature you and I come from the Shire , intended for or likely to be understood by only a small number of people with a specialized knowledge or interest.
so sparking a new and exciting discussion topic and positive educational format here where is it purely on-topic is what i hope and know you can add and do bring to the table here in our special little place you created for us many years ago , to in part help me evolve and grow technically in a practical hands-on way that it it indeed seams i have and will continue to do so , as my passion for anything that has a black knob on it and a precise Push-Pull Throw factor to it at the end of its thick thick brass feral end cap .....
you should know that you created a place that the revolution of evolution for all things 78310- & 78410- , 78302 , & 78402-, 78311- & 78410- will keep on keeping on for the long term foreseeable future ...
thank you Uncle Mark ...
.
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make sure you click the addio file speaker icon ON , if you hear no sound 
Enjoy ...
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Enjoy ...
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Regarding factory Aisan carbs, I was thinking about using a choke cable to perform the function of my leaky choke-breaker / throttle positioner, as an alternative to vacuum. That way, I'd have split the functions with two cables, the choke-breaker controls the amount of choke-butterfly being opened, and the factory choke button would remain where it is. The advantage here would be that when the choke butterfly is sometimes being kept open by the choke-breaker function, and by pulling the factory choke cable, you get only fast-idle out of the carb. Think of it like 'twin sticks' for the carburetor, not the transfercase, it would be akin to having a rare factory 'hand-throttle' where you can change the throttle opening by hand, with your feet free to operate the brake and the clutch, and you still have the cold-start choke functions (fast idle and closed butterfly).
I currently have an aftermarket choke cable installed to pull on the accelerator arm, akin to the hand-throttle. But, the accelerator linkage seems just a bit too springy for the amount of friction that can be maintained by the choke cable. I can hold a fast-idle, but, it doesn't dial-in easy, and it sometimes seems to loose its pull on the system, making the idle drop on its own. Maybe I need to source a good choke cable? However, the choke-breaker mod might be an easier modification to make work, as there is only one torsion spring in the system, instead of three return springs (carb, linkage, accelerator pedal), so I the choke cable static-friction isn't as critical.
A non-invasive installation of an extra choke cable can be made with one of the screws that hold the steering colum to the dash.
I currently have an aftermarket choke cable installed to pull on the accelerator arm, akin to the hand-throttle. But, the accelerator linkage seems just a bit too springy for the amount of friction that can be maintained by the choke cable. I can hold a fast-idle, but, it doesn't dial-in easy, and it sometimes seems to loose its pull on the system, making the idle drop on its own. Maybe I need to source a good choke cable? However, the choke-breaker mod might be an easier modification to make work, as there is only one torsion spring in the system, instead of three return springs (carb, linkage, accelerator pedal), so I the choke cable static-friction isn't as critical.
A non-invasive installation of an extra choke cable can be made with one of the screws that hold the steering colum to the dash.
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- #237
@Grayscale I think you’re overthinking it. You either want the choke to move with higher rpm, or not move. For the first scenario, properly adjusted factory components will get you better results than remembering exactly what incremental amount you need to pull a cable on a divorced choke.
When you don’t need the choke to move, that is the job of a hand throttle. I would suggest a vernier hand throttle, as it will not slack like a factory cable. It will hold rpm until you hit the ‘panic’ button in the center of the knob.
Unfortunately, the direction the cable needs to function in is completely at odds with trying to mount it next to the steering column. Logistically, for a vernier cable to have any chance of not kinking, it would need to be mounted much closer to the center of the dashboard, for a clean arc towards and along the valve cover. This is problematic for vehicles with emissions equipment because of the air injection manifold being in that location.
Which is I’m sure how Toyota ended up with the mediocre hand cable attached to the gas pedal.
I thought about trying a vernier cable from the side of the steering column to the pedal. But I’m sure my size 14 feet would derail it in short order.
When you don’t need the choke to move, that is the job of a hand throttle. I would suggest a vernier hand throttle, as it will not slack like a factory cable. It will hold rpm until you hit the ‘panic’ button in the center of the knob.
Unfortunately, the direction the cable needs to function in is completely at odds with trying to mount it next to the steering column. Logistically, for a vernier cable to have any chance of not kinking, it would need to be mounted much closer to the center of the dashboard, for a clean arc towards and along the valve cover. This is problematic for vehicles with emissions equipment because of the air injection manifold being in that location.
Which is I’m sure how Toyota ended up with the mediocre hand cable attached to the gas pedal.
I thought about trying a vernier cable from the side of the steering column to the pedal. But I’m sure my size 14 feet would derail it in short order.
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Currently, my two Throttle Positioner / Choke Breaker diaphragms have vacuum leaks - they've been shelved. Also, I have a non-smog Aisan 2F carb, it never came with the diaphragm, but, it does have the function on the choke spindle, with the torsion spring etc. I'm probably over-thinking it, but, it would be nice to source a vacuum diaphragm that isn't rotted; I've even considered adapting a replacement Delco distributor diaphragm to perform the function.
The way it is set up now leaves much to be desired. Here, the winter at 7,000'-above-sea-level challenges my non-smog Aisan. The amount of fast-idle is correct when the choke cable is all the way out, during start-up. But, after that, I need to manually crack the butterfly open by slightly pushing the choke knob in. When I do that, I loose some of the fast-idle, so there is a compromise between opening the choke to let the air in, and slowing down the motor. When it is really cold, I have to choke it more when I'm idling at an intersection, and choke it less when I'm accelerating, which is annoying. Formerly, my original factory equipped OEM USA-smog carb with leaky, but functioning, choke-breaker / throttle positioner vacuum diaphragm let the fast-idle be fast, but, it opened up the choke-butterfly with the help of manifold vacuum. I wasn't forced to use the choke knob in a middle-position. It didn't drop idle speed just to feed more air thru the carb's nozzle.
I'd imagine that a cable-stop on a choke cable mounted in the cab could perform the function of manifold vacuum. Its movement would be restricted by installing a Dorman 'cable stop.' It would be long enough to make the curve so that it pulls from the outboard-side of the carb.
The way it is set up now leaves much to be desired. Here, the winter at 7,000'-above-sea-level challenges my non-smog Aisan. The amount of fast-idle is correct when the choke cable is all the way out, during start-up. But, after that, I need to manually crack the butterfly open by slightly pushing the choke knob in. When I do that, I loose some of the fast-idle, so there is a compromise between opening the choke to let the air in, and slowing down the motor. When it is really cold, I have to choke it more when I'm idling at an intersection, and choke it less when I'm accelerating, which is annoying. Formerly, my original factory equipped OEM USA-smog carb with leaky, but functioning, choke-breaker / throttle positioner vacuum diaphragm let the fast-idle be fast, but, it opened up the choke-butterfly with the help of manifold vacuum. I wasn't forced to use the choke knob in a middle-position. It didn't drop idle speed just to feed more air thru the carb's nozzle.
I'd imagine that a cable-stop on a choke cable mounted in the cab could perform the function of manifold vacuum. Its movement would be restricted by installing a Dorman 'cable stop.' It would be long enough to make the curve so that it pulls from the outboard-side of the carb.
