Chilean Troopy Resurrection- FJ to BJ

[77cruiser77]

Looking good.

I've always RTV and OEM Toyota gasket. RTV on either side of gasket, but not too much, and would then smear a bunch with my finger covering the edge of the gasket. I've done this numerous times and in ten plus years never had a leak.

Interested in what others say

 

[MOTOV8R]

When I asked Georg he said oem with several coats of copper permatex spray and a dab of sealant in the corners.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I've always RTV and OEM Toyota gasket. RTV on either side of gasket, but not too much...

This is what I did on the side cover, and what I was planning to do on the oil pan as well.

When I asked Georg he said oem with several coats of copper permatex spray and a dab of sealant in the corners.

I'll have to stop by an Autoparts store and look for some copper Permatex spray, I just have some blue Permatex Gasket Maker. I wish the NAPA downtown was open on Sundays, I'll have to head out to Autozone or O'rielly's.

 

[solomrus]

Permatex also makes this evil rtv called "right stuff". Subaru's don't use a pan gasket and this stuff is pretty much guaranteed to seal even those. Especially good when there's a bit of a wave in the flange you can't work out.

 

[77cruiser77]

I do not mean to hijack but add value to this thread as I may see where it's going. Adding to the OP, what sealant are people using? An oil pan is not something you want to have to do more than you need as it risks dirt contamination, risks distorting the lip of the pan if it's really glued on there and becomes difficult to remove, and buying new oil pan gaskets from toyota simply because you used the wrong sealant is a bummer.

I'll have to report back what I use as all I can say is it's permatex, says RTV, and is gray.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

It's ready to mate back up to the transmission. I'm going to do some wiring clean up in the engine bay before I pull it out of the garage. Wish this cold spell would move on, 15 deg F is not pleasant to work outside for too long.

I sent my spare FJ60 steering gear in to West Texas Offroad for a rebuild a couple weeks ago and I heard back from them yesterday that the sector shaft was bent. So I pulled the one off the troopy to send in today...kind of a bummer, I could be ready to start this up this week, but won't be able to drive it without the steering box.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Well, it was a balmy 25 and sunny yesterday, so I managed to clean up some of the wiring on the firewall and got the engine/tranny mated up and stuffed back into the vehicle.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

This isn't how the clutch fork/slave shaft are supposed to be is it?

It looks like the pushrod isn't correct for the fork...I think the correct pushrod has a stop on it to keep it from going through the fork-hole.

31474-30020 is the pushrod that comes up for what year I think this transmission is out of, it's not available. I'll probably just modify this one to not do this anymore, I need to get it all installed and check the throw and adjustment. I never noticed the clutch not engaging when I was driving it last summer, but this needs fixed either way.

 

[lostmarbles]

This isn't how the clutch fork/slave shaft are supposed to be is it?
It looks like the pushrod isn't correct for the fork...I think the correct pushrod has a stop on it to keep it from going through the fork-hole.
31474-30020 is the pushrod that comes up for what year I think this transmission is out of, it's not available. I'll probably just modify this one to not do this anymore, I need to get it all installed and check the throw and adjustment. I never noticed the clutch not engaging when I was driving it last summer, but this needs fixed either way.

My rod certainly doesn't go right through my fork-dimple..

I don't know whether later years changed or whether your left foot was just too heavy on your clutch pedal

And looking forward this shot confirms I have no through-hole..

 

[FF LC FREAK]

No hole in the clutch fork in my 81 BJ42 either. Just a dimple like Tom pictured.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

So everything is in/hooked up except the radiator. I could prime and start it, but since I can't drive it until I get the steering gear back, I'm holding off as I want to be able to 'break it in' (not sure what this means) only thing I've read that's definitive to break this engine in is to drive it and vary the speed/load for the first few hundred miles.

Another thing that's not clear is how to prime the oil pump. The Engine FSM doesn't address this that I can find anywhere.

I did find this posted by gerg in another thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/wobbly-harmonic-balancer-main-pulley-on-1hdft.853110/page-2

So I built it based off the work of some Chevy guy on a Chevy forum if all things. So please forgive me for that. Took me about 1/2 an hour to build cus I had all the parts laying around. So before anyone says.... " wow that's going to blow up" ... I only used 25lbs of pressure with no clamps on my tubing and it was fine. I tapped everything and didn't use t tape. I DID glue the pvc together. I used the low oil presure sender for fill and the oil pressure sender for presure guage, but you can use anywhere that accesses the block journals and don't need a guage. When I hooked it up I filled primer with 2L oil and only filled my compressor to 25lbs just to be safe. I then hand cranked the engine over slowly and within seconds you could feel the whole engine loosen up and rotate freely. Eventually I got a bit of oil out the rocker. I did watch the clear tubing carelyfully incase it ran dry. You don't want to push air in.

So I shut the premier off and removed the oil filter and put a bit of hose and a bolt to plug the crank case breather vent and put the rocker cover back on and filled with 5l oil until it showed in the dip stick. I then removed the dip stick and put 25 lbs pressure into the dip tube with a rubber tiped blow gun and pressurized the crank case while turning the engine over clockwise? Anyway it was the rotation when it runs To prime the oil pump. That took a bit and would recomend doing that with the starter motor, but oil did barf out the filter hole. Once you fill the filter 75% of your system is primed, but more importantly the pump is primed and the bearing journals are primed. I would still turn it over a bit with glow plugs out just to get the rest of the air out of the system before starting it up. If you packed the oil pump gears before assembly with vasoline it's suppose to make a good tight seal and prime fast. I didn't! But sounds like an easy great idea. So I explained it in detail to avoid confusion which makes it Sound like a lot of effort, but actually it's not hard nor time consuming at all and you get another large rarely used tool you can store for decades. Wahoo.

I used:
4 inch pvc pipe about 18"
2 x 4 inch end caps
1 male air line coupler to top of tank
Some bolt on top you have a tap for for filling
1/4 npt pipe extension male male on bottom
1/4 inch ball valve
2 x npt brass barbed fitting
3 ft clear tubing
Gear clamp and bungee to suspend it
I was going to add 2 90 degree brass barbed fittings and a length of clear tubing to indicate how full the thing was, but I ran out of parts. Would be handy. I sort of measured by weight. Clean the thing inside like meticulously cus it's going straight to your bearings. No filter. I ran the thing for a while and watched for any junk just to wash the tubing before I hooked it up.

Edit. In hind sight a small inline fuel filter would have been cheap insurance against dirt.

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Not sure if that's totally necessary either.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Got a spare tire. I found a new Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 315/75/16 on craigslist and bought a wheel that's very close to what's on there already. 16x7 Cragar Soft 8 with 4-inch backspace.

I put the new 315 up next to my 'old' 37-inch MTRs that are on my pick-up and they're very close to the same size, the 315/75-R16 Duratrac is about a half-inch smaller, although this angle makes it look like the 315 is bigger.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I got my steering box back and installed, buttoned everything back up and started it up...seemed to be running okay, took it out for a test drive and blew a head gasket I think.

I limped it home billowing white smoke, idling high and knocking. Pretty bummed. I should not have put the turbo back on as that's what started this whole saga. Or, I should have dialed it back to have less boost. It was at about 10 psi, which is what the previous guy had it set at and what I thought was typical for this set-up.

I have the old exhaust manifold and a new OEM style (not MLS) head gasket. I'll have to figure out how to connect the air cleaner, as I modified it to accommodate the turbo. I'll have to re-configure the exhaust again too.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Maybe I have a torn diaphragm on the injection pump? Haven't had a chance to do any trouble shooting, but the idle hunting around suggests something wrong with the injection pump.

3B diaphragm replacement

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Rented a vacuum pump from Autozone today. Hooked it up the the IP diaphragm and couldn't get it to hold any vacuum, I could pump it down to about 10 in Hg, and it just dropped steadily to zero.

Replaced the diaphragm and it held at 22 in Hg, for quite a while.

Also rented a coolant system pressure tester. Hooked it up to the radiator and pumped the system up to about 18 psi, found a heater hose, hose clamp that I failed to tighten and a couple other minor hose leaks/drips and fixed them.

Bled the fuel system again and started it up. Runs a bit smoother, but still rough and has a high idle and smokes. I'll try and time the fuel next.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Adjusted the valves again, checked the fuel timing and all seems good. Not smoking and running well.

Took it out for a drive and the clutch is slipping, not sure what's up. The slave looks like it's right, the master is a 3/4 bore, that's original to the troopy. I have the pedal/master rod all the way out, still messing with the slave rod. I broke the one that was pushed all the way through the fork. I welded up the hole in the fork and am using a bolt for now...I'm making a list of more parts to source. I hope a new clutch is not needed.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

So a bit of mud-search and I'm pretty sure I have a burnt flywheel. Hindsight being 50/50 and all, should have had that resurfaced when I had it out. The guy I bought it from said the clutch was new and flywheel had been re-surfaced. BUT, the slave rod going through the clutch fork probably caused some maladjustment in things and who knows when that happened.

I've ordered a new clutch kit from RADD Cruisers, along with a replacement clutch fork (one with a dimple instead of hole), new slave cylinder and fork boot.

My one concern is the flywheel. I hope there is enough material on it that it can be machined and re-used. The only specs I've found say .2 mm run-out and a FLAT profile, is there a minimum thickness? My worry is that there are heat-cracks that go too deep and not enough meat left to completely remove them.

I bet there's a Canadian out there with a good used flywheel they're using for a door-stop or base on there grinder stand...

 

[Brewsterfire]

So a bit of mud-search and I'm pretty sure I have a burnt flywheel. Hindsight being 50/50 and all, should have had that resurfaced when I had it out. The guy I bought it from said the clutch was new and flywheel had been re-surfaced. BUT, the slave rod going through the clutch fork probably caused some maladjustment in things and who knows when that happened.

I've ordered a new clutch kit from RADD Cruisers, along with a replacement clutch fork (one with a dimple instead of hole), new slave cylinder and fork boot.

My one concern is the flywheel. I hope there is enough material on it that it can be machined and re-used. The only specs I've found say .2 mm run-out and a FLAT profile, is there a minimum thickness? My worry is that there are heat-cracks that go too deep and not enough meat left to completely remove them.

I bet there's a Canadian out there with a good used flywheel they're using for a door-stop or base on there grinder stand...

Got one and I live just north of you in Creston,B.C.. It is out of a 1983 BJ60.

 

[MOTOV8R]

The one time I didn't resurface a flywheel it chattered and slipped. I check it whenever I am in there. Definitely worth the time to drive to the shop and the $35 for the machining.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I pulled my trans on Sunday, went to pull the pressure plate off and found out why my clutch was slipping, I failed to tighten the pressure plate bolts...DOH!

Went ahead and pulled the flywheel and had it resurfaced, had them machine the .5 mm step in it per the 13B-T spec instead of leaving it with a flat profile per the 3B spec.

New Exedy clutch kit and Drive Tech slave cylinder arrived yesterday from RADD Cruisers. Also had John send me a re-furbished clutch fork that didn't have a hole all the way through it, along with a new fork boot.

Got the clutch installed last night, a bit of a struggle with the Drive Tech slave. The casting for the bleed port interfered with the starter bolt and I was unable to use it. I ended up using the new push-rod and boot and putting the old slave back on. I'll take another look at the 'new' slave this weekend, maybe a bit of grinding and it will clear, maybe it was too late last night...