Chilean Troopy Resurrection- FJ to BJ

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Yeah, something isn't right. I've heard reports of people getting down into the mid 200s and their 3Bs are still running, albeit poorly. Much below that, you won't have enough compression to ignite the diesel.

Just to be sure, here are the steps for doing a compression test per the FSM:
1. Warm up engine
2. Remove all glow plugs
3. Install tester
4. Without EDIC - Pull the stop button all the way out
4. With EDIC - Turn the starter switch to LOCK position and then disconnect the EDIC motor wire connector
5. Depress the accelerator pedal all the way down
6. Measure the compression pressure while cranking the motor with the starter

*cranking speed 250 RPM

Compression
STD 427 PSI
Limit 284 PSI
Difference less than 28 PSI

:cheers:
 
Thanks for the detail, as I said previously, I followed the FSM.

Planning to check the numbers again this weekend.

It's taken me 3-weeks, and I've blown my bike-commuting goal for the quarter, but I burned through half a tank of fuel and calculated my fuel consumption for the first time.

This is all in-town, driving, only got it up to 4th gear one or two times, my commute is 7 miles one way. so it barely gets warmed up.

3B, NA, 3.7s, 315/75/16 BFG A/Ts, not hauling anything...17.6 US mpg (13.4 L/100km)

I'm debating on taking it up to do some kayaking this weekend, about a 100 mile round trip. May get a better idea of fuel economy.
 
I'm going to return the compression tester. It won't register anything now, I think there's an o-ring that's mangled inside the quick-connect fitting.

I put some rebuilt injectors in it today, they really smoothed the idle out and it runs much better.

I also checked the tire pressure...22 psi, so 17.6 mpg with bad injectors and low tire pressure isn't so bad.

It's got the 'Land Cruiser Lean' so I swapped front springs left to right and I was hitting the bump stop pretty good when I went over speed bumps, so I added two short leaves to the front end at the same time.

It's a bit taller now in the front, still leans to the driver's side, but not as much.
 
There are legitimate reasons for cruiser lean Dan (and that can explain why your left-right spring swap had little effect)...
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:beer:
 
I think it is actually the rear springs. When I looked before the shackles were at different angles. I fixed my fj40 lean using one of the factory style lowering blocks on the passenger side. I would make some 3" longer than stock shackles for the rear as well to level it front to back and try a lowering block on the passenger side.
 
I feel like that right now Tom...just got back from floating the river (drinking a few beers during the float, dinner and a few more beers (wife drove the Troopie for the first time) and a bowl of ice cream and pie to finish it off)) yeah, there may be a reason of the lean.

Ken,

I was looking at the rear today and noticed the shackle angle being slightly different, I remember you mentioning longer shackles for the rear, now that I raised the front an inch, a bit of a lift in the back is necessary, also looks like new rear shocks are needed as well.

100-miler is next Saturday so I'm not completely done riding, but I am 'tapering'...just did 86 miles this week, 140 if you count commuting.
 
Messing around with rear seating arrangements again.

Option 1: Forward facing second row with long jump seats in 'the way back'.
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This is good for visibility out the front, but kind of a pain to get in and out of as you have to climb through the passenger's seat.

Option 2: Rear facing bench with long jump seats.

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I kind of like this option, easier to get in and out of.

Option 3: Long jump seats down both sides. I think this looks the best. Problem is, I only have one set of long seats. There's a set for sale in the classifieds, but they're slanted on one side.

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Wouldn't you load the back seat by flipping the passenger seat down and sliding it forward? (Edit: duh that's what you said) You got hosed by the PO again. I think I sold the stock jump seats for 100$. Option two creates something of a rear lounge. I think you would need to add a coffee table.
 
Option two creates something of a rear lounge. I think you would need to add a coffee table.

My neighbor said card table, Leslie said coctail table...I think the cards would blow away. If I get a chauffeur's license, I think it's legal to have 'a beverage' behind the driver's seat. It'd make a good shuttle vehicle for mtn. bike rides up at Bogus.

I'll probably make some brackets for the 70 seat and use it for a while. I don't see having rear passengers very often, just Sam and he's been happy riding on the wheel well. Makes him feel like he's getting away with something. You still see kids riding in the back of pick-ups around here. As the saying goes, "Safety Third!"
 
Just got it out on the interstate for a few miles. Managed to get it into 5th for a while. Zero acceleration, but it maintained traffic speeds (65 mph) at 2000 rpms. I didn't have my Garmin, so I'm guessing at the speed. Speedo said 50+ mph, I think it's about 10 mph slow.
 
Second 'fill-up' (only half a tank again) it took me 3 weeks to burn through 11 gallons. Similar driving, mostly in-town, one trip up into the foothills, some dirt roads and 4-low action. 21 mpg (U.S.) [11.2 L/100km]
 
1.25 correction factor based on my Garmin.
 
Finally put the rear seats in. I still would like to have full troopy seating, but haven't found any rectangular (no slant on the base) one-bolt mount, style. The 70 seat is comfy, and there's plenty of leg room, it also has lap belts integrated into it. I can fold it down, but not forward. In order to fold it forward, I'd have to have made the mounting bracket/base a foot taller so the outside edge of the seat wouldn't interfere with the tub.

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Acquired a turbo a while back, decided to start the install today.

The 'kit' came with an oil pan with drain bung installed, a stub of exhaust and the pieces of tubing to connect to the venturi.

I sourced a BJ42 airbox in hops of it working out for the air supply to the turbo.

I ought a new metal exhaust manifold gasket as well (should have ordered a oil pan gasket too...)


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First road-block...got the oil pan installed (using some RTV instead of a new pan gasket) and discovered the oil filter interferes with the return bung...not sure if there is a smaller filter or a filter mount that's oriented different or if I should buy a new bung and modify my old pan, moving the bung out of the way of the filter.

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Second snafu, the oil supply tap I chose interferes with the exhaust stub, this is an easy fix (I hope); I should be able to move the supply to one of the forward taps, as long as the SS line is long enough.

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Third issue was two of the manifold bolts were about 2.25 inches too short for the 'new' 13bt manifold. I ran to the hardware store and bought some ridiculously over priced new bolts...M10 x 1.25 x 70mm $2.49 each. What bugs me is the the heads are 17 mm instead of 14mm.
 

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