Chilean Troopy Resurrection- FJ to BJ

[Owyhee Jackass]

And the last issue, the one I was expecting is the air-box. neither the one I modified or the BJ42 box fit...so more fabricating will need to happen. I don't want to lose my washer bottle and overflow res. but I may need to relocate them.

 

[FF LC FREAK]

If this helps, this is how I fit everything under the hood of of my BJ42 with a turbo. I used my stock BJ42 airbox with a lid from a 12HT that I had to modify to fit. It looks like the way I have it, the airbox sits a little more forward and to the side of where yours is located.

Also, you can see in the next picture where I tapped into the oil gallery for the turbo.

Have fun turboing! It makes a huge difference!

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Thanks for the photos. That's where I plan to move the supply line.

Is that a shorter oil filter you're using and can you remove your filter without disconnecting the turbo oil return line?

Looks like I'll need to get creative with the air-box. If you could fit yours there and leave your battery in the factory spot, I should be able to leave my washer bottle reservoir and overflow bottle. I'll need to get some more silcone intake hoses & fittings. What's a good source for those?

Dan

 

[FF LC FREAK]

Thanks for the photos. That's where I plan to move the supply line.

Is that a shorter oil filter you're using and can you remove your filter without disconnecting the turbo oil return line?

Dan

That filter was on the engine when I bought it. I'm not sure of the brand. I typically buy Wix filters, and they would fit but it was close. I didn't have to remove the line for oil changes.

Looks like I'll need to get creative with the air-box. If you could fit yours there and leave your battery in the factory spot, I should be able to leave my washer bottle reservoir and overflow bottle. I'll need to get some more silcone intake hoses & fittings. What's a good source for those?

There's no question that the engine bay fills up quick when adding a turbo and all the other parts. You end up trying to put a bunch of stuff in the same area. I bought all my silicone fittings off the internet. I just did a search for the size I needed and bought the cheapest ones. My reasoning for this was that I was only boosting to about 10 psi. Even the cheap ones should hold up to that (and they did). I figured the expensive ones are for guys running 60+psi in their Cummins. I did, however, use T-bolt clamps for everything.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Got a shorter filter, Mann W917, about 2-inches shorter than the OEM oil filter.

Plenty of room to replace the filter without interfering with the turbo oil return line.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Moved the oil supply line to the forward tap off the oil galley.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Got the exhaust down-pipe mounted.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Cut the inner fender bracket/brace off the bottom of my already-modified HJ4* airbox and it looks like the air box will fit, close to where it was. Have the brace tacked, need to modify the fender mounts too.



Ordered some 2-inch thin wall tube. I'll put an outlet coming off the bottom of the lid outlet and cap/plug the current outlet. Ordered a 2-inch slicone 90 and some t-clamps.

Hopefully it all shows up before this weekend.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Lookin good. Where did you have the inlet routed before or just pull from the engine bay?

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Inlet was about the same. I'd like to put a snorkel on the passenger side, but that's down the list pretty far.

Got the rest of the box mounting modified last night. Just waiting on the parts I ordered to finish up the lid modifications.

I managed to get the windshield washer motor to work, I swapped in one that was in one of the boxes of extra parts. I haven't plumbed it to the hood nozzle yet and the motor/pump squeals pretty bad...but it works.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Got the lid modified today. Used a 2-inch cap from Home Depot to cap off the old outlet. Welded a 3-inch stub off the bottom and put a 2-inch silcone elbow off the bottom.

Primed the supply and fired it up. Sounds good, I'll see if I can get it to the exhaust shop tomorrow. Probably ditch the muffler.

Waiting on a 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/8" barbed tee to tie into the waste gate actuator line to figure out boost.

Went with a Westach dual analog boost/egt gage, mounted under the dash on the left side of the steering column.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Got it back from the exhaust shop. It pissed coolant all over on the way there, I seem to have a slow-to-react thermostat. It did this once before right after I got it running...on my first trip to work in it of course.

I pulled the tstat out last night, its an 88C/190F unit, put it on the stove in a pot with a thermometer. It didn't start to open 'till 200F and wasn't full open 'till I had a full boil going at ~212F.

Ordered a new tstat and gasket, probably a week out...getting parts is kind of a pain with these 'rare' vehicles.

 

[Brewsterfire]

4 Wheel Auto Wholesale in Edmonton, AB is where I got mine, in stock. A little pricey but available.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Ordered from toyotapartsdeal dot com, first time I've used them. If you have an OEM part number, you just enter it and put it in your shopping cart (if still available), kinda nice not having to deal with a parts geek. Shipping was a little much @ $11.50, thermostat was $27.96. new gasket was $1.29. Shipped from southern California USPS, so should be here day after tomorrow.

 

[Brewsterfire]

That sounds good with good pricing.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Video of it running.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Installed the new t-stat...didn't make a difference. Still running hot. I don't have an aftermarket gauge, just the stock one. Prior to turbo it would barely go above C now its up to the top 2/3rd hash mark and above. It's pushing coolant out into the overflow bottle and puking a bit out of it. It is sucking it back in once it cools down, so that part of the system is working. I think it's equalized the volume so it won't puke any more.

I haven't messed with the fuel pump settings yet, I just got the boost gauge hooked up yesterday, and have only driven it once with it working, just in town. I think I saw a max boost of 10-12 psi going up a short hill in third with rpms about 2500. EGT's haven't got about 800-900 F.

I'm gonna take it out for drive now and see what it does on the interstate.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Tried to get it out on the freeway, was pulling along great in 5th gear, doing about 70 mph, max boost was just above 10, maybe 12. EGT's were around 8-900 F...didn't get a good look as I was changing lanes, trying to get into a clear lane where I could pay a bit more attention to the gauges...I blew a tire. I thought I'd blown a turbo hose at first, went like a shot gun.

No spare, no cell phone, no one home to give me a hand anyway, so I got to do the Jackathalon, 'yogged' home, (3.5 miles) grabbed two spares off our 80 (33s') I don't have a 35" spare, loaded up the 55, headed back to the troopy, changed the rear tires out, drove back home then rode my bike back to get the troopy.

Took surface streets back, 30 mph ave. coolant temp gauge went up to the high end, didn't blow any coolant, just reading on the high end of the gauge. Turned on the heater, wasn't blowing very hot. not sure if the heater core is flowing very well, as hot as the coolant gauge was reading, it should have been blowing hot.

 

[lostmarbles]

Bugger! When a tyre blows like a shotgun it's often been over-pressurized. Do you know what pressure was in it?

But at least that episode gave you a nice healthy workout...

As for your overheating ....Maybe a lot of rust flakes have been dislodged from the coolant passageways of your engine and are now in the top header tank of your radiator and blocking the tubes? (The same solid-matter could also have blocked the tubes within your heater core.) So maybe it might be wise to remove the radiator, back-flush it, and see what debris comes out?

(When engines sit idle they often have water left sitting inside them that can cause quite severe corrosion.)

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

My radiator was freshly flushed, repaired and tested this spring/summer. Coolant looks good too.

Tire pressure was 30 last I checked (about a month ago) these tires are a weather-checked, not sure how old they are, they were on it when I acquired the project. I really don't want to spend a $1000 on tires right now. I really need to sell one of my vehicles; 3 out of 4 of them could use a set of tires, it's hard to keep up with the maintenance, let alone modifications...