Builds Chicago builds a 40

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Why are you in such a hurry?
Just order well before you need it.:grinpimp:

Sounds like you have the same problem as me, always think of something at the time you already need (want to have) it.:D

Show us a glimps of the thing.

He's talking about a local driveline/gear guy, he has a reputation around here:rolleyes:. I dropped off a differential with him and it took two weeks longer than promised, and when I got it back it was missing the center dowel and retaining pin. Which meant another 70 mile round trip. Luckily I wasn't in a hurry. But like Chicago said he makes up for crappy customer service with low price and good work.

Yeah...when I built the 62 and had priced a re gear of diffs I was getting quotes nearing 3K!:eek:!:eek:!:eek:!:eek:!
I called Driveline service down in Carson City...a grand. I think rusty got an even better deal. Another occasion I was looking to have an aussie installed. shops around here...250.00...this is an AUSSIE LOCKER mind you. Dean was 50.00.
There is just NO price comparison, but as stated, you cant be in a BIG hurry for anything, expect his estimated time to be AT LEAST a week longer and do NOT expect his hours to be the same one day to the next. Once you get the guy talking, he's not a bad guy...he's just sort of eccentric from the rest of the shops around that ive been to.
After dealing with him for several years now, I know this, plan ahead and just call and bug him before I make the trek down to pick something up. This shaft he made...really nice! Ill post some pics tomorrow.
 
Pics of the drive shaft.
001 (3).webp
002 (3).webp
005 (2).webp
 
few more of the shaft
003 (2).webp
004 (2).webp
 
The bolt recess for the SAG box.
006 (2).webp
007 (2).webp
 
Frame horns are plated, the sag box is all burned in, I pulled the leaf packs apart and re drilled the mil. wrap...
Ill just say...Of all the HORRIBLE TASKS TO DO while building a rig, drilling those MOTHER FU*KING LEAFS is BY FAR the WORST task I have done to date. What a BIT@H! Im taking that sh!t in if I have to do it again.
002 (4).webp
003 (3).webp
004 (3).webp
 
Couple more of the gear box.
Im actually quite pleased with how the rosette welds came out on the spacers.:grinpimp:
Not quite my specialty.:doh:
005 (3).webp
006 (3).webp
 
Donno WHAT im gonna do about the inside of that front x member there...
Somethings that toyota did makes me wonder sometimes....
 
Frame horns are plated, the sag box is all burned in, I pulled the leaf packs apart and re drilled the mil. wrap...
Ill just say...Of all the HORRIBLE TASKS TO DO while building a rig, drilling those MOTHER FU*KING LEAFS is BY FAR the WORST task I have done to date. What a BIT@H! Im taking that sh!t in if I have to do it again.


LOL.

That does suck.

Looking great. Too nice for a trail truck. You need some Rusty Dan style booger welds there.
 
Donno WHAT im gonna do about the inside of that front x member there...

You mean cleaning and derusting?

I don't see how you fit the head of the steering box inside a tube inside that x-member. Mine barely fits with no tube. Does it not go all the way to the front of the x-member? I'm sure there's a picture back on page 2377. :rolleyes:
 
You mean cleaning and derusting?

I don't see how you fit the head of the steering box inside a tube inside that x-member. Mine barely fits with no tube. Does it not go all the way to the front of the x-member? I'm sure there's a picture back on page 2377. :rolleyes:

I ground down that flange at the VERY END of the gear box. It wouldnt fit any other way. Its tight and NO, it does NOT go to the end of the x member sleeve/ tube. It really doesnt NEED to. You can see in the pic above all the stay bolts are exposed on the back side of the x member off of the u joint.

On the inside of the x member, YES...cleaning and de rusting.
Im THINKING about tearing it out and welding in a new piece in there, but...not sure I really care all THAT much about it to be honest. I just hate that c channel plating that they did with the rivets everywhere. Everywhere that crap is and the two pieces overlap, there is RUST....BAD!:mad:

This thread is getting pretty LONG. i agree.:flipoff2:
 
LOL.

That does suck.

Looking great. Too nice for a trail truck. You need some Rusty Dan style booger welds there.
Of all the s*** that has broken on my truck none has been because of one of my booger welds. BTW I prefer to call them "bird s***" welds, it's more descriptive. :flipoff2:
 
Of all the s*** that has broken on my truck none has been because of one of my booger welds. BTW I prefer to call them "bird s***" welds, it's more descriptive. :flipoff2:

LOL!!!:lol:

I KNEW that was gonna draw out a comment!
 
The purpose of welding is to (permanently) attache 2 peaces of metal together, looking good is beneficial but not part of its job discription.:D
If my welds ever look as good as yours I might reconcider my position but untill then I'm with Rusty on this.:hillbilly:
 
The purpose of welding is to (permanently) attache 2 peaces of metal together, looking good is beneficial but not part of its job discription.:D
If my welds ever look as good as yours I might reconcider my position but untill then I'm with Rusty on this.:hillbilly:

Im in that camp as well. Rusty's rig gets it done. There's no arguing success.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom