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I had to grind on my 62 housing....:confused:
So Im getting this right, you jam the birf in without the axle shaft and spin it, there should be really NO contact with the inside of the ball end on the housing and it should be easy to turn?
On my 62 housing, it was actually pretty difficult to turn IIRC in that there was some resistance when I tried to spin it in there.
I hadnt actually tested this out on this build, I was just more or less planning on this step.
 
perhaps you didnt have the birf totally level before? but there is no grinding required for anything (for sure I know) from 80+ on 40, 60, 62 ect. Maybe if the axle shaft was on there and inserted into the differential to help level things out but there is no grinding required on 6x series axles.
 
CruisinFJ60 said:
perhaps you didnt have the birf totally level before? but there is no grinding required for anything (for sure I know) from 80+ on 40, 60, 62 ect. Maybe if the axle shaft was on there and inserted into the differential to help level things out but there is no grinding required on 6x series axles.
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well...if that is the case, then BONUS!:D
Less time for me to spend on THAT and more for something else.
Donno what the deal was with the Blotch rig though. It did need to be ground some. So based on that, I was planning for doing the same.

If I dont, great:clap:

Good info either way.
 
chicago said:
well...if that is the case, then BONUS!:D
Less time for me to spend on THAT and more for something else.
Donno what the deal was with the Blotch rig though. It did need to be ground some. So based on that, I was planning for doing the same.

If I dont, great:clap:

Good info either way.
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It is a tight fit, and if the 62 was bent at all, some grinding of the lip might be required.

I did have to grind both sides of my 76 axle when I installed Longfields, which makes some sense since the bell of the 76-78 birfield is smaller.

Just try it an see. In the scope of this project it will take less than 5 minutes to figure it out.

Curious if you figured out the knuckle tool yet? I thought it was cool and kind of elegent how it works.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
It is a tight fit, and if the 62 was bent at all, some grinding of the lip might be required.

I did have to grind both sides of my 76 axle when I installed Longfields, which makes some sense since the bell of the 76-78 birfield is smaller.

Just try it an see. In the scope of this project it will take less than 5 minutes to figure it out.

Curious if you figured out the knuckle tool yet? I thought it was cool and kind of elegent how it works.
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Andy,
I unfortunately havent gotten that far with the SST. Ive spent the last 2 weeks (give or take) trying to make the steering arms clear the springs as we had discussed. Hoping to start re assembling this weekend if all goes well.
Ill see where the longs are in the housing as far as clearance. I hope you guyz are right and NO grinding is required.
As I recall though, I did NOT grind the MOUTH of the ball end, but rather around the races inside. That was where the issue was and also what is described in the install instructions in the longfield literature.

Ill find out shortly.

I also got a call from the drive line guy in Carson (amazing in itself that he had actually called ME)...my DC, long slip shaft is READY!:bounce::bounce2: Also had him order a spacer for the diff to replace the crush sleeve. Did this on the rear diff as well.
 
All burned in....:grinpimp:
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few more.
THOUGHT about going ahead and setting the steer stops, but I decided that would be a BAD idea without anything to REALLY set em. I did leave some of the welds from the factory so I could maybe set em without the knuckles on, but...Ill wait.
Also decided that I should get the power steering box set before I paint everything. Ive gotta cut a hole where the front hanger gusset it to allow access to the sag plate bolt to run through. Tomorrow maybe?
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Looking good, I still admire your welds.
Just got myself a tig welder and lets say I've got a lot of practice ahead before it even starts to look like yours from 15 yards.:D

Don't you get problems by covering up the frame number?
 
waiting for time said:
Looking good, I still admire your welds.
Just got myself a tig welder and lets say I've got a lot of practice ahead before it even starts to look like yours from 15 yards.:D

Don't you get problems by covering up the frame number?
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Its not COMPLETELY covered. that is the last number and its a zero.
Thanks on the weld props. Id love to get into tig welding. That is what my dad did for a trade. He is/ was GREAT at it. Its TOUGH for sure. Completely different than MIG or stick.
 
rusty_tlc said:
It's good to see some weld pictures again. I know how frustrating those lulls in the build can be but it's actually takes less time to figure it out the right way once than do it twice.
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locrwln1 said:
I agree.

Jack
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Yeah...sometimes its like running in sand. I had pulled that axle housing in and out more times than I can count and jacked that rig up and down twice that. I had tried every possible solution at my disposal and I feel pretty confident with the route that I took with it. It was either this or shackle front. However, I think Ill be good with the clearance at the springs and tie rod. May get a little rub, but seriously...very minimal and at full flex and full turn.
Todays plan is to get the SAG and GM tilt column mounted.

Is there any special considerations to keep in mind for mounting the sag box as far as angles are concerned? Im sure that I wanna watch for the frame/ pitman arm clearance. However, in thinking about how its gonna run, I dont want that drag link too low either.
 
Kicked some MAJOR ASS in the shop today.
Got the tilt column installed. Made a hybrid bracket using the GM mount and cut apart the cruiser mount.
 
OOOP...wanted to post some pics.
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Installed pics.
Steering wheel is obviously not in its proper location, but you get the idea.
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Then wanted to get the sag box and steering shaft in.
Found that with the additional length of the GM column it made for virtually NO clearance at the frame. However, it DID make for more room against the headers and the pump fittings....
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SOOOOO...I chopped the shaft on the column a bit and extended the "D" up. Leaves about a 1/4 in between the frame and the shaft now.
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Then...
I got the gear box positioned to where I wanted it, tacked it to the frame and then drilled the holes.
The gusset for the springs was concerning me. I knew that I was going to have to make accommodations for for the bolt. I was also concerned with the actually drilling of the holes through the frame, but it worked out great.
So for the gusset bolt, Ill just run sort of a sleeve to allow access and clearance to the bolt.
It was getting late and the wife and I had shopping to do, so I wrapped it up here.
I still have to find some sleeve material to run THROUGH the frame as well for the bolts. Shouldnt be too hard....hopefully.
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lookin good.
 
CruisinFJ60 said:
lookin good.
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Pretty jazzed about the progress this weekend for sure.
I got a lot figured out and DONE.
Gotta re enforce the bracket holding the column a bit and make a top plate for it for more stability. The dash TIN isnt the BEST option alone.

Thanks!
 
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