Build Chicago builds a 40

[chappysfj40]

post 1338

when i was stationed at Whidbey Island back in the late 1990's we put in some anchor bolts in concrete and the bolts leaned over like 20 degrees. the engineered made us us tapered or wedge shaped washers to get 100 percent contact from the bolt head to anchor plate.

so long story short are you planning anything like to help with that? just curious. i know the stress you have to worry about is alot less that anchor bolts for a building.

cheers

chappy

 

[waiting for time]

Nice progress, looks like a good weekend for you, you know shopping with the wife on cruiser time. Greasing the wagon?

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Pretty jazzed about the progress this weekend for sure.
I got a lot figured out and DONE.
Gotta re enforce the bracket holding the column a bit and make a top plate for it for more stability. The dash TIN isnt the BEST option alone.

Thanks!

I was semi excited to get my CB mounted in the tow rig and then start skinning the tube on the truggy sunday!

looks really nice tho, I hope to do the same as you and nick
("not doing a frame off frame off" in the 40 section) at some point down the road, hopefully to a 40 or maybe my fiona but I think a 40 is much more likely.

 

[subzali]

...
I still have to find some sleeve material to run THROUGH the frame as well for the bolts. Shouldnt be too hard....hopefully.

I think Poser might sell some sleeve material, or some of the other vendors that sell Saginaw ps stuff...

I went to an industrial supply company - Kelly Supply here in Denver, and got some pipe nipples of the correct nominal size and schedule, then bored them to the proper diameter on a lathe and cut them to proper length (cut the threads off of both ends). Worked great.

See step #5 of post 27:
http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showpost.php?p=106391&postcount=27

And post 33:
http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showpost.php?p=106807&postcount=33

 

[chicago]

post 1338

when i was stationed at Whidbey Island back in the late 1990's we put in some anchor bolts in concrete and the bolts leaned over like 20 degrees. the engineered made us us tapered or wedge shaped washers to get 100 percent contact from the bolt head to anchor plate.

so long story short are you planning anything like to help with that? just curious. i know the stress you have to worry about is alot less that anchor bolts for a building.

cheers

chappy

Not sure what youre asking here?

The bolts drilled were pretty level. Also, Ill be sleeving the inside of the frame for the bolts to run through, so Ill be over boring the holes. once that is done, Ill be able to weld them and adjust the level more.

If that is what your asking.

 

[chicago]

I think Poser might sell some sleeve material, or some of the other vendors that sell Saginaw ps stuff...

I went to an industrial supply company - Kelly Supply here in Denver, and got some pipe nipples of the correct nominal size and schedule, then bored them to the proper diameter on a lathe and cut them to proper length (cut the threads off of both ends). Worked great.

Thanks for the info.
I think Ill be able to find something here locally though. All it has to do is keep the frame from closing in on itself with the tension of the bolt from side to side. I actually feel that the plating will be sufficient, but may as well take the extra step since Im here.

 

[chicago]

I was semi excited to get my CB mounted in the tor rig and then start skinning the tube on the truggy sunday!

looks really nice tho, I hope to do the same as you and nick
("not doing a frame off frame off" in the 40 section) at some point down the road, hopefully to a 40 or maybe my fiona but I think a 40 is much more likely.

The 40 is MUCH easier to do (IMO) than the 60 series. Everything is much more accessible since its a single wall tub. There is not much in the way of surprises.

So you are gonna take some of the stuff off the 60 buggy and make it more stock?

 

[chappysfj40]

Not sure what youre asking here?

The bolts drilled were pretty level. Also, Ill be sleeving the inside of the frame for the bolts to run through, so Ill be over boring the holes. once that is done, Ill be able to weld them and adjust the level more.

If that is what your asking.

all i was saying in it looked like your bolt head was not going to make 100 percent even contact because the one hole is through the angled part of the frame.

does that make since?

 

[Fast Eddy]

I still have to find some sleeve material to run THROUGH the frame as well for the bolts.

I didn't sleeve mine. There's a 1/4" plate on the inside and they're pretty close to the top.

Make sure you're not going to want captive nuts in any of the frame holes down the road. I forgot about the tow hooks, so I have captive nuts on one side, but not on the steering side.

My front outboard mount is a 1" plate on the bottom of the frame and to brace it to the frame I'm using the stock bumper mounts. I'll probably drill and tap the 1" plate mount and put another bolt down into it from the bumper mount. It's a bit backwoods compared to yours, but it will work.

I ended up not going through the frame at the back either. I used the stock front fixed mount that we had cut off, so it ends up looking pretty similar to yours, but mine is not outboard. Then I use the Proffitt's outboard shackle there. Once I dig the pics out of my camera, you will approve. My shackle angle is almost 45 degrees and with my springs as flat as they are they can't reach the frame at the back. If the springs are too flat I can add back one leaf into the pack, but for now they are super flexy and should match the rear well. As I measure it now I have 4" uptravel and 8" downtravel. I'm using Bilstein 5125 12" travel shocks.

The other thing we did different is instead of hogging out the left front bolt hole in the Ruff Stuff passenger-side perch, we cut the head off the bolt and tig-welded it into the hole. The only downside is that the top plate is a bit crooked since it's position is fixed by the stud and the spring pin.

A major downside to the 80-series FF is 16" wheels. They're not readily available in the size I need. All the 16" wheels are designed for applications that have 4.5" or more backspacing. I'm going to run 16x7 rims with 4" backspacing with 35x12.5 tires until I can up with some custom wheels down the road.

 

[chicago]

I didn't sleeve mine. There's a 1/4" plate on the inside and they're pretty close to the top.

Make sure you're not going to want captive nuts in any of the frame holes down the road. I forgot about the tow hooks, so I have captive nuts on one side, but not on the steering side.

My front outboard mount is a 1" plate on the bottom of the frame and to brace it to the frame I'm using the stock bumper mounts. I'll probably drill and tap the 1" plate mount and put another bolt down into it from the bumper mount. It's a bit backwoods compared to yours, but it will work.

I ended up not going through the frame at the back either. I used the stock front fixed mount that we had cut off, so it ends up looking pretty similar to yours, but mine is not outboard. Then I use the Proffitt's outboard shackle there. Once I dig the pics out of my camera, you will approve. My shackle angle is almost 45 degrees and with my springs as flat as they are they can't reach the frame at the back. If the springs are too flat I can add back one leaf into the pack, but for now they are super flexy and should match the rear well. As I measure it now I have 4" uptravel and 8" downtravel. I'm using Bilstein 5125 12" travel shocks.

The other thing we did different is instead of hogging out the left front bolt hole in the Ruff Stuff passenger-side perch, we cut the head off the bolt and tig-welded it into the hole. The only downside is that the top plate is a bit crooked since it's position is fixed by the stud and the spring pin.

A major downside to the 80-series FF is 16" wheels. They're not readily available in the size I need. All the 16" wheels are designed for applications that have 4.5" or more backspacing. I'm going to run 16x7 rims with 4" backspacing with 35x12.5 tires until I can up with some custom wheels down the road.

I had to read your post again on what you did with the outboard, but I think I get what you were saying...
you used the stock FJ40 Hanger as a mount for your actual outboard hanger? did I get that right?

I was messing around getting the hole through the out rigger for that bolt and thinking about running the sleeves...Its just the upper two that go through the frame, one of them is already plated by default (the out rigger bolt) and the other...Im thinking I might just make a scab plate for it to the frame and call it good.
That would be a TON easier than trying to find the rig ID tubing, thec oversizing the hole etc.

 

[chicago]

all i was saying in it looked like your bolt head was not going to make 100 percent even contact because the one hole is through the angled part of the frame.

does that make since?

AAAAAAH....Okay.
No. What I did was cut away the upper portion of the triangle brace that I have welded to the frame and clearanced a BIGGER hole. So its a partial sleeve that allows the bolt head to recess into that out rigger and be flush with the frame plate. I made it so I could fit an impact socket on there easily. Took some 1 in tubing and cut it apart to make the sleeve and welded it all in.
Ill post some pics a bit later.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

The 40 is MUCH easier to do (IMO) than the 60 series. Everything is much more accessible since its a single wall tub. There is not much in the way of surprises.

So you are gonna take some of the stuff off the 60 buggy and make it more stock?

Yea I think the 40 would be a lot easier too and I think having a daily driveable and still capable enough to follow some of the bigger rigs 40 would be sweeeet and a great addition to my collection.

on the 60 buggy im not taking anything off It is a dedicated trail rig so im not worried about that one. Im just adding some skins to the front fender tubes so it looks nicer and more like a 60 cause there is just something cool about a capable truck that still looks like what it did originally to some extent.

 

[Fast Eddy]

I had to read your post again on what you did with the outboard, but I think I get what you were saying...
you used the stock FJ40 Hanger as a mount for your actual outboard hanger? did I get that right?

Exactly. The triangles point forward so behind the mount is 100% clear for the shackle to approach the frame. We realized that using the frame tube wasn't making the whole lift shorter, but instead just increasing the necessary shackle angle to get the same lift.

Anyone want to buy a pair of 1" id frame tubes?

 

[chappysfj40]

aaaaaah....okay.
No. What i did was cut away the upper portion of the triangle brace that i have welded to the frame and clearanced a bigger hole. So its a partial sleeve that allows the bolt head to recess into that out rigger and be flush with the frame plate. I made it so i could fit an impact socket on there easily. Took some 1 in tubing and cut it apart to make the sleeve and welded it all in.
Ill post some pics a bit later.

sweet sounds awesome!!

 

[chicago]

Got my drive shaft....

NIIIIIZE!

What the dude lacks in customer service, he DEFINITELY makes up for in price and in his work. Not that he's a bad guy, but its on HIS time and no one elses. Just cant be in a hurry.

 

[waiting for time]

Got my drive shaft....

NIIIIIZE!

What the dude lacks in customer service, he DEFINITELY makes up for in price and in his work. Not that he's a bad guy, but its on HIS time and no one elses. Just cant be in a hurry.

Why are you in such a hurry?
Just order well before you need it.

Sounds like you have the same problem as me, always think of something at the time you already need (want to have) it.

Show us a glimps of the thing.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Why are you in such a hurry?
Just order well before you need it.

Sounds like you have the same problem as me, always think of something at the time you already need (want to have) it.

Show us a glimps of the thing.

He's talking about a local driveline/gear guy, he has a reputation around here. I dropped off a differential with him and it took two weeks longer than promised, and when I got it back it was missing the center dowel and retaining pin. Which meant another 70 mile round trip. Luckily I wasn't in a hurry. But like Chicago said he makes up for crappy customer service with low price and good work.

 

[waiting for time]

We have those supliers here to. I learned to live with that but it is frustrating some times especialy when you want to continue with your project. I took some time off from work to get parts for my welder, didn't pay enough attention to what the guy was packing and had to take the 2,5 hour trip again a week later.

At least you get the quality you want.

 

[dr_dobro]

Keith:
40 is looking good!
Q: I did not read all the pages on this mega thread, but what kind of springs you end up using in the front. Are they longer than stock?.

Daniel

 

[Fast Eddy]

Q: I did not read all the pages on this mega thread, but what kind of springs you end up using in the front. Are they longer than stock?.

FJ60 springs, which are longer than FJ40 springs.