Builds Chicago builds a 40 (1 Viewer)

[rusty_tlc]

Mace, Planning on the sag 4 turn, garden variety gear box. Seems that people have good results with it. Rusty... Picked up the mounting plate from OrangeFJ45. I do remember that there was VERY LITTLE clearance between one of the pulleys and your steering shaft. Hence the concern. If the motor is set, there is not a whole lot of options (it seems) to route the steering around. However, now that I think about it, that gear box and plate set up will ONLY go so far into the engine bay... K

Is it the plate that you weld to the "horn" on the front of the frame?

I'll look at it tonight but IIRC it's the fender brace that the linkage rubs on.

Anytime you want to come over and look/measure at my engine compartment your welcome. It might help you visualize how this stuff is going to go together.

 

[chicago]

Is it the plate that you weld to the "horn" on the front of the frame?

I'll look at it tonight but IIRC it's the fender brace that the linkage rubs on.

Anytime you want to come over and look/measure at my engine compartment your welcome. It might help you visualize how this stuff is going to go together.

What is this horn that you speak of!?
I got it, looked at it and set it aside to be honest, so Im not 100% sure how it mounts.
Ill most likely be taking you up on that. In having trouble remembering where all the crap that I took off goes!

Can you get the steering column plate bearing thing at summit. Not sure what it is called. Where the column runs through the fire wall, there is a 4 hole plate. Mine has NO bearing, and IIRC there is a bearing that you can put in there?!?!?!

If that makes sense.

Seems everything else I can pick up at summit for the steering.
Christ on a bike Ill be spending a SH!T TON O MONEY there!

K

 

[chicago]

I thought about the Euro vs US turn signal thing last night after I posted. The trailer adapter is a good solution.

Whats the deal with the trailer adapter?
How does that work.

Mace...I can see what it is youre saying. However (flame if you want...) couldnt you just splice into the blinker wires (the ones that are getting power) and run em front to rear to solve the problem?

 

[Mace]

Frame horns are the two metal frame pieces that stick out past the grill.

The plate you got from Georg welds to the Drivers side inner frame horn.

The "plate" with a bearing is just a pillow block bearing. You can get them at most good hardware shops like Grainger. Commercial Hardware used to have them, but it has gone downhill since the old owners sold it.
Something like this one. McMaster-Carr most of the time, the holes need to be elongated to fit the Toy bolt pattern. And, the shaft is Very slightly bigger than 3/4" You can reduce the OD of the shaft with some emery paper. It is not too bad.

There is also a bearing that is a slip fit in the steering column. I think if you search around you can find it. It is not a specialty thing. But you do need to have the correct bearing to make it work right.


Yes you can splice the blinker wires in. But, if you do not know ahead of time. And just wire it directly like the EZ wires are labeled, it won't work right.

It all depends on which set of lights you want to use in the rear. If you want to go with a single bulb for turn/running/brake then you need the trailer wiring adapter to convert it. If not, you have separate lines for brake, turn and running lights.

It also comes with a smaller Wire for a third brake light

 

[rusty_tlc]

What is this horn that you speak of!?
I got it, looked at it and set it aside to be honest, so Im not 100% sure how it mounts.
Ill most likely be taking you up on that. In having trouble remembering where all the crap that I took off goes!

Can you get the steering column plate bearing thing at summit. Not sure what it is called. Where the column runs through the fire wall, there is a 4 hole plate. Mine has NO bearing, and IIRC there is a bearing that you can put in there?!?!?!

If that makes sense.

Seems everything else I can pick up at summit for the steering.
Christ on a bike Ill be spending a SH!T TON O MONEY there!

K

Mace got it, it's the part of the frame that extends past the front cross member. The joint at the fire wall is called the rag joint if I'm not mistaken. You can use the factory stuff just cut it long. I tend to say Holy carp but yeah you will spend a s*** pot on the little s***.

Whats the deal with the trailer adapter?
How does that work.

Mace...I can see what it is youre saying. However (flame if you want...) couldnt you just splice into the blinker wires (the ones that are getting power) and run em front to rear to solve the problem?

The trailer adapter is a cheap way to convert from the Euro convention, (Right turn;right brake, left tur;left brake) to the 'Merican convention Left turn, right turn and one wire for brake.

Frame horns are the two metal frame pieces that stick out past the grill.

The plate you got from Georg welds to the Drivers side inner frame horn.

The "plate" with a bearing is just a pillow block bearing. You can get them at most good hardware shops like Grainger. Commercial Hardware used to have them, but it has gone downhill since the old owners sold it.
Something like this one. McMaster-Carr most of the time, the holes need to be elongated to fit the Toy bolt pattern. And, the shaft is Very slightly bigger than 3/4" You can reduce the OD of the shaft with some emery paper. It is not too bad.

There is also a bearing that is a slip fit in the steering column. I think if you search around you can find it. It is not a specialty thing. But you do need to have the correct bearing to make it work right.


Yes you can splice the blinker wires in. But, if you do not know ahead of time. And just wire it directly like the EZ wires are labeled, it won't work right.

It all depends on which set of lights you want to use in the rear. If you want to go with a single bulb for turn/running/brake then you need the trailer wiring adapter to convert it. If not, you have separate lines for brake, turn and running lights.

It also comes with a smaller Wire for a third brake light

Since he is essentially starting from scratch we could just use 'Merican lights and screw the Euro s***.

 

[Mace]

"rag" joints are the ones made out of rubber/cloth stuff that joins the steering box to the column. Not somethign that you want to try to reuse.

The firewall bearing is different.

 

[chicago]

HAAAAA!
I LOVE McMaster Carr!
Ill be placing an order with them too, so that's a bonus!
So that bearing in question is smaller OD than is the column? Now if Im not mistaken on this process, Ill be cutting the stock column down about 2 in past the fire wall, so its not too much work to essentially grind down the column to make that bearing fit?
Then, there is a u joint on the end of that is the new steering column?

K

 

[chicago]

Mace got it, it's the part of the frame that extends past the front cross member. The joint at the fire wall is called the rag joint if I'm not mistaken. You can use the factory stuff just cut it long. I tend to say Holy carp but yeah you will spend a s*** pot on the little s***.


The trailer adapter is a cheap way to convert from the Euro convention, (Right turn;right brake, left tur;left brake) to the 'Merican convention Left turn, right turn and one wire for brake.

Since he is essentially starting from scratch we could just use 'Merican lights and screw the Euro s***.

Where around here do I get that?
Im guessing that well wire the EZwires to a plug of some sort, then the rest should be somewhat self explanatory?

Thanks for the help boys!
Those gray areas are slowly becoming clearer.

K

 

[Cruiserdrew]

k-

That bearing at the firewall is called a pillow block, I think.

There is a better solution that is cleaner and more satisfactory. Kurt at Cruiseroutfitters has a small sealed bearing that fits into the column support itself. It works extremely well and is very clean looking. At most it costs $5 or so. Then you don't need the pillow block, or enlarge any holes etc. Most of those pillow block bearings are not sealed and not a super tight fit.

Anyway-another option for your build.

If you have not already bought your Steering shaft itself, from Boregeson or Flaming River, there is a Spicer PTO shaft that works perfectly that is not much more expensive and about 100 times heavier duty. The joints are regular U-joints with zerks for lubrication.

 

[Mace]

If Kurt has the slip fit bearing, then go that route.. Much cleaner instal

I used the slip shaft from the GM car I got the steering box from. 3/4"ID tubing on one side, 34"DD rod on the other side. $5.00..

2 steering joints, and away you go..

 

[chicago]

k-

That bearing at the firewall is called a pillow block, I think.

There is a better solution that is cleaner and more satisfactory. Kurt at Cruiseroutfitters has a small sealed bearing that fits into the column support itself. It works extremely well and is very clean looking. At most it costs $5 or so. Then you don't need the pillow block, or enlarge any holes etc. Most of those pillow block bearings are not sealed and not a super tight fit.

Anyway-another option for your build.

If you have not already bought your Steering shaft itself, from Boregeson or Flaming River, there is a Spicer PTO shaft that works perfectly that is not much more expensive and about 100 times heavier duty. The joints are regular U-joints with zerks for lubrication.

Thats good info there. Ill look into that.
What years on the PTO shaft? Ill appreciate ANY savings at this point in the game if it will work well.
Pricing out the summit stuff its upwards of around 300 bucks for it all.

Thanks for the tip!

K

 

[chicago]

If Kurt has the slip fit bearing, then go that route.. Much cleaner instal

I used the slip shaft from the GM car I got the steering box from. 3/4"ID tubing on one side, 34"DD rod on the other side. $5.00..

2 steering joints, and away you go..

What year and make did you pull that from?
Do you have any pics that I can see for reference?

Thanks!

K

 

[chicago]

Update...
More parts on the way!
Ruffstuff's SOA kit and wrap bar kit! Got it while ON SALE!
Also, got the rest of the under carriage stripping finished, sealed and primed! Next up is the bed liner coating!

Its great when there is appreciable progress!

K

 

[chicago]

Tub bottom has been sealed, primed and lined!
I used the Herculiner for this process. Formerly, on the Blotch rig, I had used hippo liner. Between the two, the Hippo liner was MUCH easier and distributed more evenly. Too late now though. Well see how this stuff holds up!

K

 

[CruisinFJ60]

its coming along.

 

[chicago]

its coming along.

Yeah...its getting there.

Next up is clean the frame, cut off the in-essentials box the frame, and then set the Vortec!
Little nervous about this part! Recruiting the help of some friends/ club members for this part.
Gonna set the tub on the side for a while, while that happens. This is the meat and potatoes part of the build coming up!

 

[chicago]

AAAAAAND the parts FLOWETH OVER!!!!!!!!!!!

SOA kit (Ruff stuff)
Wrap bar kit (Ruff Stuff)
230- split case adapter (Jerry/ AA)
Split case rebuild (CCOT, best price I found)
Swingout spindle (A to Z fab)

Much more to buy though!!!!

Ive been spending a BUNCH of time researching part numbers for stuff.

Gonna start on the frame tomorrow...its gonna be a loooong day beating out all the factory rivets! Plasma makes it much easier though!

 

[kling-on]

Mmmm swag keep the updates coming lookin great

 

[chicago]

Mmmm swag keep the updates coming lookin great

Thanks Klingon!
Just wish that I could get more TIME right now!
Will do on the updates!

K

 

[chicago]

Ive got a few questions for those who are still tuned in...

1. On the front and rear distal ends of the frame, there are some triangular gusseting plates that attaches to the bumper/ x member. Theyre bolted/ riveted in place...Can you eliminate those, or do those need to be there. I imagine that they can BE 86'd from the project, but Im unsure.

2. How far do I need to outboard the front hangers to accommodate for the 60 series housing?

I woke up thinking about the hanger question and couldnt go back to sleep this AM @ 0430! I was trying to visualize the BEST way to accomplish this with the greatest accuracy.
I got the Ruff stuff kit (as mentioned). Its the 40 series using 60 series axles, but Im currently unsure as to how all this crap is supposed to work.

If anyone has any input, please feel free to post up!

Thanks,