Builds Chicago builds a 40

[chicago]

Hi Keith,

Do you mean drill the hole on the line you drew on the frame?
I think you mean go up in a vertical line from the point it is on now. You want to keep the distance between the front of the spring and the top of the shackle the same to get the same shackle angle.
If you take a corner iron and drill a hole in it which you bolt on the front side off the spring and drill a hole where your upper shackle hole is now you will have a perfect template to make the hole in the frame. You can use it on both sides of the frame.

Just don't forget to take the weight of the parts not on there in the equasion.
Nice work, looking good.

HU?
Im not getting what you are saying as far as the hole drilling.
The proffitts's shackles are 5 in long (1 in longer than what I have). The off set side of the shackle is on the OUTSIDE of the frame. So when I get the proffitts shackle in hand, I theoretically should just be able to bolt it on to the spring, swing it up to the desired angle (like pictured), mark the hole and drill, right? Since it is sitting under the weight of the rig NOW, that should give me my static, ride height shackle dimension? Unless Im missing something which is likely.
This one I DO NOT wanna **** UP if I can avoid it at all!!!
Oh yeah...I have taken into cosideration the parts and weight NOT there, which is why I opted for the 20-25 deg range on the shackle angle. That and also considering for spring settle as well.
Im not a believer in a hard 45 deg shackle angle.

Thanks for the input and if you could clarify, that would be great!

 

[chicago]

I am so glad you post all of this up. I will be going through the same thing very soon. I hope the proffits shackles work out. How far up into the frame do you have to drill the hole for the shackle. Could you throw a tape on the front hanger and let me know what the distance is from the top to the bottom and how far it sticks out past the frame horn. I have the same style of hanger but it came from proffits and i was wanting to reuse it if I can cut it off without destorying it.

Sure man! Ill do that and post up the numbers later this eve.
This part has been more of a challenge than I had thought. As far as the drilling through the frame...Im gonna keep it low in the frame as in, towards the bottom. The shackle is only 5 in long, and you want ABOUT 1.5 in between the bottom of the frame and the top of the spring eye. Or there abouts.

 

[waiting for time]

Oke, if I understand right if you leave the spring in the current position and put the new shackles on the top will be in the correct position to the frame? In othr words the spring does not need to move up any more?

In that case you are right to use the lines on the frame.

 

[chicago]

Oke, if I understand right if you leave the spring in the current position and put the new shackles on the top will be in the correct position to the frame? In othr words the spring does not need to move up any more?

In that case you are right to use the lines on the frame.

well...I guess that Ill have to wait and see what the actual diameter of the sleeve is. It MAY have to go up a touch.
So...i went back and re read your post...you are saying that if I need to go up any higher on the frame then I would have to go up VERTICALLY as opposed to along the index line that I have marked, right?
I think Im getting it....

 

[rusty_tlc]

Hi Keith,

Do you mean drill the hole on the line you drew on the frame?
I think you mean go up in a vertical line from the point it is on now. You want to keep the distance between the front of the spring and the top of the shackle the same to get the same shackle angle.
...

He is getting longer shackles so I think he has the right idea.

 

[waiting for time]

If you have to move upwards just use the distance of the yellow line as a template, the angle will stay the same.
You have to meassure with the new shackles of corse.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Do you mean drill the hole on the line you drew on the frame?
I think you mean go up in a vertical line from the point it is on now.

HU?
Im not getting what you are saying as far as the hole drilling

....

So...i went back and re read your post...you are saying that if I need to go up any higher on the frame then I would have to go up VERTICALLY as opposed to along the index line that I have marked, right?
I think Im getting it....

I agree. The line you marked on the frame is only confusing, not useful for drilling, or plasma cutting. The hole in the frame is going to be straight up from the top hole in that shackle. It looks like it's a similar height to the offset shackle.

I didn't get to the point of the frame tube. I had to deal with my ugly front springs. I bought them from Shmukter, who is from N. Pennsylvania. I don't usually have to deal with rust. It was also raining here. I don't usually have to deal with rain. It took me the better part of the day to tear those down. I took out one leaf that had been added, as well as the shorty on the bottom which is only about 2" longer than the Ruff Stuff perches.

My spring work worked. They settled down about an inch and angled down more than 1 degree. I now have over 1/2" of clearance under the tie rod; maybe 3/4". I have a picture in my camera with all my other pics.

Where did you get the nice spring 'wrappers' or whatever those are called? My springs are good enough for now but they're going to need to be taken out in the future and improved. I was pretty lucky that Napa had spring pins. I ground the flaky rust out and put them back together to continue rusting; no paint.

My 1" spacer moved my front spring eye down to about where yours is. I haven't seen the side view of your perches like that. I'm down to about where yours are, but not that far forward.

I see why you're keeping your shackle angle for now. All the fenders, hood, radiator, hw, presumably winch are going to be heavy. Mine is almost fully loaded. I did pick up an 8274 the other day. I'm going to shoot for about 40 degree shackle angle or a bit less.

 

[chicago]

SCRATCH!!!!
So I got the proffitt shackles today, and they are actually a 1/2 in SHORTER than the ones that I have!?!?!?!?!
So I sat out there and did some measuring and with the shackle that they sent me, would allow only 1 in of clearance between the frame and the spring wrap.
I called Proffitts to confirm this, and YES, that is they way that they run their set ups.
I donno if I really like that Idea. It will work as far as the off set is concerned, but that is pretty damn close to the frame IMO.
This is becoming more of a hassle than its worth at this point.

I could cut out the bottom of the frame to drop it some, but...Dont really wanna do that either.

 

[chicago]

I agree. The line you marked on the frame is only confusing, not useful for drilling, or plasma cutting. The hole in the frame is going to be straight up from the top hole in that shackle. It looks like it's a similar height to the offset shackle.

I didn't get to the point of the frame tube. I had to deal with my ugly front springs. I bought them from Shmukter, who is from N. Pennsylvania. I don't usually have to deal with rust. It was also raining here. I don't usually have to deal with rain. It took me the better part of the day to tear those down. I took out one leaf that had been added, as well as the shorty on the bottom which is only about 2" longer than the Ruff Stuff perches.

My spring work worked. They settled down about an inch and angled down more than 1 degree. I now have over 1/2" of clearance under the tie rod; maybe 3/4". I have a picture in my camera with all my other pics.

Where did you get the nice spring 'wrappers' or whatever those are called? My springs are good enough for now but they're going to need to be taken out in the future and improved. I was pretty lucky that Napa had spring pins. I ground the flaky rust out and put them back together to continue rusting; no paint.

My 1" spacer moved my front spring eye down to about where yours is. I haven't seen the side view of your perches like that. I'm down to about where yours are, but not that far forward.

I see why you're keeping your shackle angle for now. All the fenders, hood, radiator, hw, presumably winch are going to be heavy. Mine is almost fully loaded. I did pick up an 8274 the other day. I'm going to shoot for about 40 degree shackle angle or a bit less.

Spring wrappers? Do you mean the leaf retainer things?
Those are the stock wraps that I drilled out and cut a spacer to fit in. Keeps the leaves from popping out.
So essentially would had TWO added leaves in your pack? How many leaves are in there now? I think in my FJ60 pack there are 6. Dont really wanna take any more out.
Stuck in NEUTRAL!

 

[rusty_tlc]

.....
Stuck in NEUTRAL!

You should take a break and do some sheet metal welding.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Spring wrappers? Do you mean the leaf retainer things?
Those are the stock wraps that I drilled out and cut a spacer to fit in. Keeps the leaves from popping out.
So essentially would had TWO added leaves in your pack? How many leaves are in there now? I think in my FJ60 pack there are 6.

My rears are from the rear of an FJ62. I believe they have 8 leaves, and they're pretty good as they are with a steep shackle angle.

The fronts are from an fj55. I hadn't considered that they had one or more POs. They're old and beat. One retainer was missing completely. Another one from the same end of the same pack broke when I bent it out, so there's work to do there. Yours are nice, like all your other pretty crap. They had 9 leaves when I got them. Now they have 7.

Maybe when I take the leafs apart next time I'll work on something that doesn't look like a backwoods tractor mechanic has hacked on it for 40 years. For now, their holding up the truck just fine.

As I was there beating on rusty leaf springs, in the rain, I was at ease with my build vs your build. I'm not going to have any issues plunging into the first mudhole I come across. If I was you I'd just drive on the street.

 

[rusty_tlc]

....

As I was there beating on rusty leaf springs, in the rain, I was at ease with my build vs your build. I'm not going to have any issues plunging into the first mudhole I come across. If I was you I'd just drive on the street.

I'm pretty sure he'll drive the truck into the mud without a second thought. It's ether that or take unending s*** about it.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

I'm pretty sure he'll drive the truck into the mud without a second thought. It's ether that or take unending s*** about it.

to say the least!

 

[chicago]

So the decision has been made.
Swapped everything back to MY out boarded shackle hanger configuration, set the shackle angle at 26*, set the caster at 5* after setting the pinion to 10*. With the set up loose and a PVC tie rod in place I have 5/8 in clearance above the springs and it clears at the springs clock to clock on both sides with about an 1/8 in of clearance.
The way that Im looking at it...
5* is a decent caster number. Its what I ran on my 60 and it was fine. When I get this thing rolling SOMEDAY and IF I find that Im rubbin like a whore on crack against the springs, THEN I can bail and spring for the 4x4 labs steering arms. At least the caster angle isnt outrageously high like it was when I FIRST started this part of the project (7+ deg. caster). I always like to have a BAIL OUT/ back up plan. Going through the frame...Id be SCREWED without a TON more work and a permanent HOLE through the frame.
So....this is how Im running it!
Ill finalize it Thurs.

 

[chicago]

What ever
Knowing you, you were probably beating something ELSE in the rain!

 

[chicago]

I am so glad you post all of this up. I will be going through the same thing very soon. I hope the proffits shackles work out. How far up into the frame do you have to drill the hole for the shackle. Could you throw a tape on the front hanger and let me know what the distance is from the top to the bottom and how far it sticks out past the frame horn. I have the same style of hanger but it came from proffits and i was wanting to reuse it if I can cut it off without destorying it.

hey bro,
The edge of the spring sticks out 1.5 in past the front of the frame.
Just so you know.

K

 

[chicago]

I'm pretty sure he'll drive the truck into the mud without a second thought. It's ether that or take unending s*** about it.

YAP!
No truer words spoken other than..."BBCNN, were here to help you spend your money!"

 

[locrwln1]

Look at this way, when it gets really bad, that will help you justify links/coilovers.

Jack

 

[Fast Eddy]

With the set up loose and a PVC tie rod in place I have 5/8 in clearance above the springs and it clears at the springs clock to clock on both sides with about an 1/8 in of clearance.

How's the steering clearance when one side is hanging down like it would be under flex? I think you may still have trouble. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news if so...even after the rain comment.

Here's a pic of my steering clearance as it sits. This is with ridiculous caster; like 10 degrees. Check out the finish on those leaf springs.

 

[chicago]

How's the steering clearance when one side is hanging down like it would be under flex? I think you may still have trouble. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news if so...even after the rain comment.

Here's a pic of my steering clearance as it sits. This is with ridiculous caster; like 10 degrees. Check out the finish on those leaf springs.

Either way...I WILL find out!
This bitch is running how it sits right now!

BTW...LOVE that finish. Perfect for a rust bullet application!