Build Chicago builds a 40
- Thread starter chicago
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HAHA, I mean rare:whoops:, English is not my natural language so cut me some slack, or is that wrong too.
- Thread starter
- #1,244
Interesting....
The TG 6 shooter hysteer arms BARELY CLEAR the front springs!?!?!?!?!? CRAP!
Maybe get the 4x4 labs kit and try and sell the TG steer arms?
Lukes stuff is SPENDY! Is it really worth the extra? For the tie rods, steer arms, rod ends and pittman the cost is 595.00 for the 6 shooter knuckle. OUCH. However, Id also need the pittman arm anyway as well as the rod ends and tie rods, so Im not losing that much in the grand scheme of things. Just not sure about the "frombe" steer set up.
I talked with Crusierdrew on this, and it seems that this is a common issue with a SR configuration or at least CAN be.
Also discovered that
A) the ball ends on the housing are 2 deg off from the factory
B) I only need to rotate the DS ball end up 2 friggin deg.
The way it sits with the pinion rotated to 10 deg, the PS ball end is at 4 deg. Now, if I were to rotate the knuckle arms up, that would help the steer arm dilemma that Im having.
Little frustrated right now.
The TG 6 shooter hysteer arms BARELY CLEAR the front springs!?!?!?!?!? CRAP!
Maybe get the 4x4 labs kit and try and sell the TG steer arms?
Lukes stuff is SPENDY! Is it really worth the extra? For the tie rods, steer arms, rod ends and pittman the cost is 595.00 for the 6 shooter knuckle. OUCH. However, Id also need the pittman arm anyway as well as the rod ends and tie rods, so Im not losing that much in the grand scheme of things. Just not sure about the "frombe" steer set up.
I talked with Crusierdrew on this, and it seems that this is a common issue with a SR configuration or at least CAN be.
Also discovered that
A) the ball ends on the housing are 2 deg off from the factory
B) I only need to rotate the DS ball end up 2 friggin deg.
The way it sits with the pinion rotated to 10 deg, the PS ball end is at 4 deg. Now, if I were to rotate the knuckle arms up, that would help the steer arm dilemma that Im having.
Little frustrated right now.
I have the normal Marilin 4 hole steering arms along with arp studs with hydro assist. I don't know why but I have NEVER had them loosen up on me. I still check them on big trips but none have ever been loose. I don't beat my stuff but I'm not afraid to bump it when needed. For me I haven't seen the need for 6 shooters yet.
- Thread starter
- #1,246
honestly...I hadnt either.
However, it WAS a really good deal. Now...not so much.
I had the Marlin set up as well.
Could you do me a favor and measure the rise on the marlin arms?
Id like to see where those are at.
If you get the chance. No big hurry!
You don't have a picture of that side complete. Are you using two u-bolts, or just regular bolts on the diff side of that perch going down into the perch itself?
My front end is out of an fj62, and it's braced on the bottom, making it a lot closer to rectangular than u-bolt shaped. It's also twisted 10+ degrees, so the u-bolt doesn't even fit. When we were trying to mock it up I believe I began to understand exactly what's going on with this perch.
Assuming that perch is set up to work with one u-bolt on the outboard side and nuts and bolts on the diff side, I'm going to order a pair tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #1,248
Here ya go Ed.
Shot a couple of the set up for you.
Im really pleased with this diff side perch set up once I figured out how to do it. I did have to hog out the front hole a bit, but that was easy.
When I did my FJ62, I had to bend the piss out of the u bolt and also weld on a retainer to keep it in place. Wasnt optimal, but it worked fine.
hnmmmmm, taking notes here. hopefully you wont get pissed if i steal some of your ideas and cheat off your homework!work looks awesome, an exemplary job!!
- Thread starter
- #1,251
Cheat away my friend.
That is a big reason I do the build threads. In hopes of helping someone else wanting to do something similar.
Its how I have learned ALL that I know here.
Who's OTT?
After I told my exact setup to a employee that no longer works for AP he guaranteed that their arms would work. When they didn't (tie rod hit the leaf springs), he said, "Sure we'll take them back with a 25% restocking fee". This was back before the steering arm wars when the arms themselves were well over $300 (no linkage included). I sold the arms to a mini truck dude for 20% off list and told AP to get stuffed.
OTT industries had the parts I needed and worked with me making sure that the arms would fit the first time. Customer service is kinda important to me.
OTT Industries - the originals
OTT industries had the parts I needed and worked with me making sure that the arms would fit the first time. Customer service is kinda important to me.
OTT Industries - the originals
- Thread starter
- #1,256
So after much discussion with NUMEROUS people that know far more than I do, it seems that the issue I am having is in the rear hanger and is causing a "bad" spring angle.
Cruiserdrew and I discussed this as well as Locrawlin and I discussed this this weekend and I was unable to visualize how they were seeing it...Went to dinner with RustyTLC last night before our TLCA club meeting and he was able to DRAW it for me on the back of a receipt so that my simple mind could understand it.
So it seems that I need to make the actual SPRING PACKS themselves more LEVEL. The way that I have it set up now is the rear of the spring sits lower than the front.
So my options are at this point to raise the rear shackle hanger or drop the front hanger.
So Fasteddy...it seems the route YOU are going with the off set shackle going through the frame is the BEST way to achieving the optimal spring angle while doing a SR.
I personally do NOT care much for the through the frame mounting method ESPECIALLY with the offset springs and outboarding that needs to be done.
I may try and cut the rear hanger and essentially mount the hanger/ bushing TUBE to the bottom of the frame rail itself. The offset really screws things. Ill probably look into the shackle you had posted as well.
The other alternative is just abandoning the SR altogether and convert back to the stock shackle position.
Good thing I didnt hard weld anything in all the way!
Cruiserdrew and I discussed this as well as Locrawlin and I discussed this this weekend and I was unable to visualize how they were seeing it...Went to dinner with RustyTLC last night before our TLCA club meeting and he was able to DRAW it for me on the back of a receipt so that my simple mind could understand it.
So it seems that I need to make the actual SPRING PACKS themselves more LEVEL. The way that I have it set up now is the rear of the spring sits lower than the front.
So my options are at this point to raise the rear shackle hanger or drop the front hanger.
So Fasteddy...it seems the route YOU are going with the off set shackle going through the frame is the BEST way to achieving the optimal spring angle while doing a SR.
I personally do NOT care much for the through the frame mounting method ESPECIALLY with the offset springs and outboarding that needs to be done.
I may try and cut the rear hanger and essentially mount the hanger/ bushing TUBE to the bottom of the frame rail itself. The offset really screws things. Ill probably look into the shackle you had posted as well.
The other alternative is just abandoning the SR altogether and convert back to the stock shackle position.
Good thing I didnt hard weld anything in all the way!
I thought the animated version with the plastic knife was what did it.
- Thread starter
- #1,259
Going through the frame with the rear shackle.
After talking with the guy at proffitt's this is the best way to go.
Comes with the shackles, the spacer and I got a set of FJ40 bushings and it was 110.00. Pretty spendy IMO, but I didnt see a better way to go with it.
So Im hosed till Monday.
Not sure how to set up the shackle angle from this point.
Any tips?!
Pics would help as well.
RustyTLC had used a 2x4 or something?
Then what, do you just slop down the angle you want and go for it!?
K
After talking with the guy at proffitt's this is the best way to go.
Comes with the shackles, the spacer and I got a set of FJ40 bushings and it was 110.00. Pretty spendy IMO, but I didnt see a better way to go with it.
So Im hosed till Monday.
Not sure how to set up the shackle angle from this point.
Any tips?!
Pics would help as well.
RustyTLC had used a 2x4 or something?
Then what, do you just slop down the angle you want and go for it!?
K
Once you plasma that hole, moving it is going to be a lot of work.
I put mine all together with that end of the spring resting on the frame. It's not very flexy, but it gave me an idea of how the springs would handle the load. In your case, you know exactly how the springs will behave. Measure eye-to-eye as it is, figure out what shackle angle you want, and burn it in.
My theory about the shackle angle is that you want the shackle end to touch the frame at the same time the spring is exactly flat so the spring can then go inverted and pull the shackle back down. This is easy to measure by laying the tape along the curve of the spring no matter how flexed it is. Of course they never get really flat when they're flexed like that, but pretty close.
If the shackle is long enough to reach from the static location to the flattened location, you're golden. If not you're going to have to decide if you want to bottom out on the frame when you're tucked, or limit travel at full droop. I have considered notching the frame for more clearance. Low riders do it all the time and much more extremely than I'm thinking. I have no firm plans to do this, however.
Mine is too tall to start. I've got a little clearance issue with the tie rod that I hope will be solved by different steering arms and slightly small tie rods (fj80 vs 1 ton), but removing a leaf will help too. I'm also going to ruff stuff perches which are probably lower than how I have it set up right now. Once the leaf is out, I'm going to remeasure and follow my plan as above. I'm planning 4" uptravel using the stock bump stops and Bilstein 5125 12" shocks. :crossesfingers:
If you wait until after Sunday you can see how bad I f'd mine up.
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