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Stock is ideal- this rig didn’t have one in the pile of parts. It’s not a resto so this was a solid option.I would sincerely suggest refurbing your existing one if you have one. its dead easy. i describe it
here. IMHO significantly better than any of this plastic aftermarket stuff.
It turns out that refreshing a charcoal canister is actually pretty easy. So if you are thinking of
tossing your old one and going to that plastic gm replacement....here's an alternate option for
you.
My canister was leaking charcoal from practically every port. The thing was kaput ... so time
to bust it open. Take your angle grinder with a flap disc or other and slowly grind down the
side of the top crimp. The point is to leave as much of the raised edge but still remove the
crimp. After you get it where you can see the joint....get a thin metal wedge and work it apart.
The...
I did the same thing and bought it from redline cruisers. I bought a new OEM fender from the guy in Germany. The fender didn’t have the provisions for the stock canister and didn’t want to drill into the fender.Stock is ideal- this rig didn’t have one in the pile of parts. It’s not a resto so this was a solid option.
So, where does the vapor go from the separator then?I never had any fumes in doors or in the cab and forgot all about the canister. I reinstalled the vapor separator with new hoses for the new tank. I had to look in the emissions manual to see where the steel tubing went when it left the cab. I was told I needed to put the check valve back but with out any vacuum being pulled on the vapor separator the check valve would never open. It has not been there for so long it is not going back.
I removed the stock carb and replaced with a Rochester 2 jet and it did not need one. I did not connect the vacuum line again when I removed the canister but it has been a long time ago when I did this back in the late 70s or early 80s, and I have slept since then. I deleted everything for emissions and and installed a header and never had any issues until I let the machine shop removed 0.050 off the head when they did the valve job. That was fine at 6K' and above but not in the Portland, OR area. I could not get enough gas to it to keep from knocking.Ah, so you have it connected to the vacuum port on the base of the carb, and it pulls direct from the vapor separator.
Wow!Seemed like anything I did to the 2F to improve the performance was negligible and a waste of money. There were times I could not do the speed limit on the highway with a head wind.
I had a SBC that I planned to do a stroker kit for the torque gains but the HP gain would have been to much. Then I started looking real hard at do in a diesel swap.Wow!
And people wonder why engine swaps are so popular?