Charcoal Canister - Great Option! (2 Viewers)

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Both of my 80s (94 and 96) do it with fresh VC120s in them.

My guess is that it's just because the system is overwhelmed with the heat, altitude (at least in my case) and ethanol in the fuel. The only tank vent AFAIK is the one that runs through the charcoal canister - there is no vent directly to atmosphere if your system is as Mr. T. designed it.

thx, that is what I figured, working as it should really.......
 
For what it's worth, my new (to me) LX450 has had a strong gas smell and noticed pressure when opening the gas cap. Positive sign of canister failure according to various threads. 217k. I googled VC120 and first hit was Autozone. There is a coupon code if shipping to an address 'TRAVEL20" I believe 'SAVE20' also works.
http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/vapor-canister/duralast-vapor-canister/239708_0_0

Hope this is the right one, hope it helps someone else!
 
I have that same canister and get mad vapors from the fuel filler door when it's really hot out. Once on the trail I could hear the fuel boiling in the tank.
 
So my shop said I needed my canister replaced on my 73 FJ40 after reporting a gas smell.
folks seems to talking about mostly later models in this thread, will VC120 work for me as well?

Also, generally I think folks who are experiencing this should probably avoid ethanol fuel. In my MGB the Ethanol would evaporate faster and create pressure that would put vapor into the fuel line and stall the engine. It seems that with a bigger canister and system it could be the same pressure here is pushing on the canister lines and finding a weak point and leaking out rather than stalling us out.
 
So my shop said I needed my canister replaced on my 73 FJ40 after reporting a gas smell.
folks seems to talking about mostly later models in this thread, will VC120 work for me as well?

Also, generally I think folks who are experiencing this should probably avoid ethanol fuel. In my MGB the Ethanol would evaporate faster and create pressure that would put vapor into the fuel line and stall the engine. It seems that with a bigger canister and system it could be the same pressure here is pushing on the canister lines and finding a weak point and leaking out rather than stalling us out.
If only I could avoid ethanol. They need to take it out of gasoline.
 
Following the suggestions made here, I replaced my canister with the Delco version. It worked just fine and I no longer have pressure in the system, nor a "hissing" sound when I unscrew the gas cap. Instead of nylon ties however, I suggest using a long bolt and a nut. Thanks for all the posts and the good tips.
 
Yesterday I installed a vc 120 in my 1991 3FE 80. Today I have codes 24, 31, and 71. Has this happen to anyone?
 
Codes? What are these codes of which you speak? (From a knuckle dragging 60 owner)

I'll try to find my new canister info. Can't remember parts number off hamdIt didnt fit at all. Thinking of hitting open my old one and refilling, then welding back together.
 
I second that. I too bought a used original canister from eBay and it turned out to be clogged up, just like my old one. I used the same alternative, although the one I bought is made by AD Delco. It was used in some 90's model GM V8 engines. It works great, no more pressure in the fuel tank.
 
Just passed CO emissions test-barely. But they said nothing about the AC Delco replacement canister. Reused the lower canister strap, had to flip and put in a long bolt and nut.
 
Thinking of hitting open my old one and refilling, then welding back together.
The lid of your CC is a press fit into the canister body so there is no need to weld it back on after you cut off the roll seam holding the lid on.
 
Ok I have been through all 12 pages and have really one seen one or two 60 owners that have done this. I know this is meant for the 80s but wondering if there is anyone else that watches this thread (comes highly recommended on the 60s forum) and has done to their 60 WITH PICS?

I did it for my Fj62 and seems like it works. Less pressure releasing the gas cap. I dint have fuel smell issue but pressure problem that fuel would seap out on a full tank
 
has anyone experienced P0401 CEL after the cannister change? I changed mine out with the duralast and pressure from the gas can disappeared. but after a few weeks and a tune up the P0401 came back. I already addressed this code with the VSV changed out 2 years ago and that held up until now.. any guess?
 
I just ordered the VC120 from Autozone. Is it plug and play or must I drill a hole in the bottom?

Per this youtube video, I'm hoping to get rid of the hiss and get the engine to turn over fewer times before starting. Have not noticed excessive fuel smell.

 
I installed the VC120 as is - no added holes. No problems for a month.

I had pressurized fuel tank along with OBD2 code P0401 (Low EGR flow).
That code doesn't seem to point at the charcoal canister, but...
Gas tank vented out with some pressure when the gas cap was opened.
Replaced old OEM charcoal canister with VC120, cleared the code, did 3-4 drive cycles, and passed Arizona emissions test.
 
No need to drill a hole in the bottom. It’s already vented at the bottom. I just installed one last week and found it necessary to leave off the bottom retainer clamp in order to avoid interfering with the fuse box wiring harness. You’ll need a 60mm long bolt for the upper clamp as the VC canister is about a half inch greater diameter. M6 but I think M8 would work as well. If you want oem hoses and clamps the info is below. There’s one more short hose pictured below that should also be replaced with standard 1/4” bulk fuel hose. My hoses were dried out to the point they would spin on the fittings.

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i just did this over the weekend and seems like it works well. I did find that the vehicle was missing one of the canister bracket mount bolts that secure it to the wall by the fuse box. I cant find a part number for those bolts (total of 4 mounting bolts, 3 on the fender and 1 on the wall by the fuse box) to replace the missing one.
 
i just did this over the weekend and seems like it works well. I did find that the vehicle was missing one of the canister bracket mount bolts that secure it to the wall by the fuse box. I cant find a part number for those bolts (total of 4 mounting bolts, 3 on the fender and 1 on the wall by the fuse box) to replace the missing one.

IIRC, that bolt attaching to driver side fender by fuse box was the same as the other three bolts. I just did this over weekend as well. No more hissing. Zero. Hope it stays this way.
 
yes, I thought for the price, why not give it a go

the highest point that I refueled was at 3000' (after going up and down 12000')

*note
I modified the new CC by drilling a hole in the bottom cap and screwing in the OEM CC's swivel breather tube that routes down under the engine.

The new CC is like a saucer, venting into the engine bay but the OEM design is better I think.
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further note- very cold weather- so we shall see how it does in 100+F heat added into the mix


How far did you have to drill into the bottom of the canister? I am assuming at a certain point you reach a diaphragm or something that creates a 1-way ventilation for the canister, going too far it could potentially damage the internal components. Would like to do this, it makes more sense than expending fumes into the engine compartment
 

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