- Thread starter
- #1,401
Bank 1 aka the easy side done.
Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570
- Thread starter grinchy
- Start date
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Props getting her all tuned up. Great move especially on the O2 sensors. The stock thresholds for O2 end of life before a CEL are pretty relaxed and they get lazy. I have primary O2s on my short list of things to do soon which should pay for themselves with the tighter fuel controls and efficiencies.
- Thread starter
- #1,403
Quite a bit of oil on #6 coil and spark plug. Spark plug was loose, so I’ll blame that.
The other coils on that side are clean, I still haven’t gotten #8 plug out, it started raining.
#8 coil was a right pain to remove, I unclipped the main harness from the firewall and snaked it out. Looking forward to putting it back in!
The other coils on that side are clean, I still haven’t gotten #8 plug out, it started raining.
#8 coil was a right pain to remove, I unclipped the main harness from the firewall and snaked it out. Looking forward to putting it back in!
- Thread starter
- #1,404
coils removed are marked 90919-02250, same as new replacements.
Here are plugs from bank 1. They look ok until compared with a new plug, quite a bit of the electrode is actually missing.
Here are plugs from bank 1. They look ok until compared with a new plug, quite a bit of the electrode is actually missing.
- Thread starter
- #1,405
Spark Plug and Coil Change / Tune up Play by Play:
I followed the FSM method
Take off the airbox top and the large tube part that has the MAF sensor in it
Remove two 10mm bolts on the front of the Heater Tee metal rails (one by thermostat, one by spark plug 4)
Remove three 12mm bolts on the back of the heater tee rails (one by spark plug 6/8), one at top back right corner of engine, one down by the right side air/fuel sensor). I used the double length 12mm on the one down by the a/f sensor. Previous shadetree mechanic had already removed the one on the top back of engine and neglected to put it in.
Unclip the main engine harness from the firewall (push screwdriver in at tab, pull off hanger), at back right of engine (#8).
I used this fancy magnetic spark plug socket. It was awesome, but I wish it was 25 to 40mm shorter (it says 10" total length), then it would have been truly awesome. So look for an 8" version instead, like this one.
I did the left side first, for practice. I had one very tight/possibly cross threaded plug (#1). I choose to put antiseize on this plug for reinstall. I tightened to 12ftlb instead of 15 due to the antiseize. The other 7 got tightened to 15 ftlb.
I had oil at location #6. That plug was hand tight, so I am hoping it was simply an installation error by previous shadetree. Will watch.
The only drama was #8 getting the coil out, that took 3-5 minutes of trying different angles while pushing the engine harness this way and that. #8 going in was pretty straight forward for whatever reason, only 90 seconds or so.
I had to loosen/ move my middle skid to get to the lower water pipe bolt by the a/f sensor.
I put in new coils as well, nothing to say about this.
job. Having a magnetic spark plug socket 8" long, and going to the small trouble to loosen the heater pipes and this is easy peasy.
I followed the FSM method
Take off the airbox top and the large tube part that has the MAF sensor in it
Remove two 10mm bolts on the front of the Heater Tee metal rails (one by thermostat, one by spark plug 4)
Remove three 12mm bolts on the back of the heater tee rails (one by spark plug 6/8), one at top back right corner of engine, one down by the right side air/fuel sensor). I used the double length 12mm on the one down by the a/f sensor. Previous shadetree mechanic had already removed the one on the top back of engine and neglected to put it in.
Unclip the main engine harness from the firewall (push screwdriver in at tab, pull off hanger), at back right of engine (#8).
I used this fancy magnetic spark plug socket. It was awesome, but I wish it was 25 to 40mm shorter (it says 10" total length), then it would have been truly awesome. So look for an 8" version instead, like this one.
I did the left side first, for practice. I had one very tight/possibly cross threaded plug (#1). I choose to put antiseize on this plug for reinstall. I tightened to 12ftlb instead of 15 due to the antiseize. The other 7 got tightened to 15 ftlb.
I had oil at location #6. That plug was hand tight, so I am hoping it was simply an installation error by previous shadetree. Will watch.
The only drama was #8 getting the coil out, that took 3-5 minutes of trying different angles while pushing the engine harness this way and that. #8 going in was pretty straight forward for whatever reason, only 90 seconds or so.
I had to loosen/ move my middle skid to get to the lower water pipe bolt by the a/f sensor.
I put in new coils as well, nothing to say about this.
job. Having a magnetic spark plug socket 8" long, and going to the small trouble to loosen the heater pipes and this is easy peasy.
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- Thread starter
- #1,406
Even cylinders
- Thread starter
- #1,407
The guzzler is running silky smooth on the new plugs and coils. Noticeably better.
Last item will be changing the maf later today.
Last item will be changing the maf later today.
- Thread starter
- #1,408
MAF changed. I used the Hitachi part, it is completely identical to the OEM, down to the pink dab of epoxy in the corner and all markings except the "Toyota".
Recommend removing airbox top / big tube bit so you can rotate the whole thing to easily get to the two MAF philips head screws without fear of dropping them on the intake.
Don't forget to reattach the vacuum hose and other hose on the back!
Not even a banana this job, it took 5 minutes.
Recommend removing airbox top / big tube bit so you can rotate the whole thing to easily get to the two MAF philips head screws without fear of dropping them on the intake.
Don't forget to reattach the vacuum hose and other hose on the back!
Not even a banana this job, it took 5 minutes.
- Thread starter
- #1,409
Took a post install test drive and it's a very noticeable difference how the engine is running. It wasn't bad before, but definitely better now.
I'd rate the effectiveness like this:
Coils
Plugs
A/F and O2
MAF
But since I did most of these in one day that is just my opinion.
I'd rate the effectiveness like this:
Coils
Plugs
A/F and O2
MAF
But since I did most of these in one day that is just my opinion.
- Thread starter
- #1,410
Put a few more miles on it today.
One specific thing I’ve seen improved is engine performance at low rpm. Like going up a small hill at 25 mph.
I used to get some low audible/sensory judder, I thought it was transmission. It was certainly no big deal, but it also wasn’t nothing. Nothing visible on the rpm gauge, just a little resistance.
Completely gone, I could idle up a hill now and there’d be no complaints. Haven’t been out on the freeway yet, now expecting big things.
One specific thing I’ve seen improved is engine performance at low rpm. Like going up a small hill at 25 mph.
I used to get some low audible/sensory judder, I thought it was transmission. It was certainly no big deal, but it also wasn’t nothing. Nothing visible on the rpm gauge, just a little resistance.
Completely gone, I could idle up a hill now and there’d be no complaints. Haven’t been out on the freeway yet, now expecting big things.
- Thread starter
- #1,411
New arm for the CarPlay portable. Had some power stuff in house to mount on the gamiviti cover, but decided as I layed it out to do something different. So another week on the cig socket adapter.
$42 20mm tablet mount with 8” arm. The camera on the portable is in the way, so it holds it a bit shifted. For now not resting on the dash, will see if it want to shake, if so I’ll toss a rubber pad under it.
$42 20mm tablet mount with 8” arm. The camera on the portable is in the way, so it holds it a bit shifted. For now not resting on the dash, will see if it want to shake, if so I’ll toss a rubber pad under it.
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- Thread starter
- #1,412
Yeah, that tablet way out on the 8" arm wobbles pretty good, the joint's tight, it's just physics. I rolled up a microfiber cloth and put it under for now, we'll see what I decide to do long term. I was planning to hang my phone on that arm as well, so it's just going to get more bounce in it. I guess I'll lay in a second amps mount just in case I have to mount them separate, which seems pretty likely at this point.
Watching the most recent Tesla radio experiment with interest . . .
Watching the most recent Tesla radio experiment with interest . . .
- Thread starter
- #1,413
Had low flow last time I used the air compressor. Made some time to evaluate in my driveway. I've got several holes in the stainless jacketed, ptfe line that was supposed to be bombproof that I ran 5 years ago from the engine compartment to the rear bumper.
I literally can't believe it.
Anyhow, I disconnected the compressor side and put a quick connect on the pump itself, so I can at least air up while I get it fixed.
What's the recommended LONG TERM hose for medium psi air use (max 120 psi, max 6 cubes/min)?
I literally can't believe it.
Anyhow, I disconnected the compressor side and put a quick connect on the pump itself, so I can at least air up while I get it fixed.
What's the recommended LONG TERM hose for medium psi air use (max 120 psi, max 6 cubes/min)?
- Thread starter
- #1,414
Little ripper grew and required a new steed to flog.
All terrains, of course! Specs? Lol
- Thread starter
- #1,416
Finally got around to wiring in the dc power up to the Gamiviti plate. No drama at all, tapped the cigarette lighter in the center console )pink, white/black stripe).
Just had to pull the console side trim and the ashtray section, no screws.
Did move but not disconnect the center channel.
The outlet box works great. Now I have 3 cig outlets a usbc, a usb pd, and two more 2.1a usb. Lots of options. Most importantly, the led lights on it are very subdued. Excellent.
Moved the wireless charger phone holder onto the plate via. 17mm to 20mm adapter and a fixed 20mm mount.
Will re-wire the CarPlay tablet for permanent installation after this weekend trip.
Just had to pull the console side trim and the ashtray section, no screws.
Did move but not disconnect the center channel.
The outlet box works great. Now I have 3 cig outlets a usbc, a usb pd, and two more 2.1a usb. Lots of options. Most importantly, the led lights on it are very subdued. Excellent.
Moved the wireless charger phone holder onto the plate via. 17mm to 20mm adapter and a fixed 20mm mount.
Will re-wire the CarPlay tablet for permanent installation after this weekend trip.
1world1love
SILVER Star
I actually wrapped my poly hose in a decent quality split loom. My rationale was that the split loom would be durable but wouldn’t be too rough on the hose as it inevitably kinked and twisted. I am not near 5 years yet so I have no idea how long it will hold up.
I like flexzilla a lot but I’m not sure how it would do in this scenario.
I wonder if it is just a use case where you should expect to replace ~5 years no matter the material.
1world1love
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #1,419
Yeah, I thought that the ptfe core with steel braid exterior would last forever, but it chafed thru. It was $3 or $4 a foot, something like that.
I have managed to melt the end of the poly hose too, airing up bike tires. It's easy to fix (slip it out, cut it off, slip it in), but it won't be a good long term solution. So I put the original hose (single in, single out) back in the box, and will roll without the four-flate for a bit until I decide what a good long term under car solution. Maybe I'll just stub out to the front bumper as others have and call it a day. I don't want to be hood up in the long term, it feels like a big regression, even though it's totally fine of course.
- Thread starter
- #1,420
The obligatory questions:
What size tires? And did you need spacers?
It's a Rocky Mountain Growler Jr (26), 8 speed. I did quite a bit of lightening with component swaps, dumped the boat anchor fork that came on it, and it's now 25lb (down from 34!). Just like our rigs, weight kills on kid's bikes.
It came with sweet WTB Rangers (ATs) in 26x2.8. One will eventually go back on the rear when the new 32mm ID carbon rimset eventually shows up on the slow boat. Until then, the rear is a 26x2.3 Mountain King (mid AT) on one of the 26" Mavic rims that came with my 1998 FSR Pro, The front is a Roval Traverse SL Fatty (30mm ID) 27.5" carbon rim, which has a 27.5x2.6" Rekon (mild AT) on it for now. Eventually it'll get a matching 27.5x2.8 WTB Ranger on it, so she'll be rolling plus (-) Rangers front and back. I'll try to sell her on a rigid fork (-3 more pounds) at that time, though I must say the Helm Mk2 is the sweetest kids fork I've ever seen. It's probably the best fork I've got, and I have a Lyrik and DVO Sapphire on a couple other bikes. The Helm can 'travel down' from 170mm to 100mm using little clip in spacers, and it's lowest air pressure fits her current weight. It can also travel up as she grows, and will be just fine on her forever bike (this kid growth chart says will be lucky to hit 5'3").
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