Changing the Motor Mounts (1 Viewer)

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Green Lantern

Have Truck, Will Travel
Joined
Dec 18, 2002
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111
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Location
Fort Worth, Texas
I need opinions & advice from this vast, unpaid research department. ;)

Climbing a steep grade at Flat Nasty last week, my fan started rubbing on the fan shroud. Everyone nearby said FJ60's are notorious for failed motor mounts. I crawled under the truck and the brackets aren't broke and the nuts are tight.

So, I figured... 1982 FJ60 with 267,000 miles... probably wouldn't hurt to lift the engine and replace the motor mounts. Turns out, new mounts and nuts will cost $300.

Any thoughts from my friends on MUD?
Happy Trails! N
 
i got a motor mount it was only like 30 bucks from toyota
its your drivers side

you couldnt tell mine was broken at all except when you put it in four wheel with the brake on and let it torque the motor up

took maybe an hour to fix
 
It isn't difficult replacing them just takes a little time. $300 installed or just for the parts? If it's only parts it's high. Do you have a leaky power steering pump? A leaky power steering pump will do that.
 
Thanks guys!
The $300 was for parts only, at Toyota. I'm checking other sources now. The procedure looks simple enough. Loosen the nuts. Hook onto the engine with an engine hoist. Lift it enough to switch out the mounts. Lower the engine back down. Tighten the nuts.

Happy Trails! N
 
Green Lantern - where are you in TX? I have a engine hoist if you're close by and in need of one. I'm around Austin.
 
Thanks Bridges,
I'm in Fort Worth. I have a Harbor Freight engine hoist so I'm good. Clutchee (fine 60 driver) told me how to lift the engine. If I succeed, I guess I'll be a one banana mechanic instead of a banana peel mechanic. ;)

Happy Trails! N
 
Nick,

The price seems steep. As noted its the driver side but loosen the other side to make it easier to lift the engine. Also, lift slow and watch for things getting streched as the engine lifts relative to the frame. Vacuum hoses and radiator shroud come to mind.

When you finish wrap a piece of hardware chain over the mount and bolt it tight. This will help prevent it from breaking and limit the movement if it does. Its a great trail fix - so the rest of you should at least carry a piece of chain and some bolts. I chain my new one when I put it on. ;)

BTW, climbing vertical rocks with Marlin's 4.7 Toybox in stupid low breaks my drivers mount just about every trip. I'm looking into a more permanent solution.

Look close you can see the :flamingo: chain...

P6180092.JPG
 
Thanks Gang!

The driver's side mount was covered in power steering gunk. That may have done it in.

Man Jerk has the right idea of lifting the engine from below using the bottle jack and a piece of wood. Using an engine hoist, I cleared the front mounts fine. But the rear mount only moved a little.

It was a very good day.
Happy Trails! N
 
Nick,

The price seems steep. As noted its the driver side but loosen the other side to make it easier to lift the engine. Also, lift slow and watch for things getting streched as the engine lifts relative to the frame. Vacuum hoses and radiator shroud come to mind.

When you finish wrap a piece of hardware chain over the mount and bolt it tight. This will help prevent it from breaking and limit the movement if it does. Its a great trail fix - so the rest of you should at least carry a piece of chain and some bolts. I chain my new one when I put it on. ;)

BTW, climbing vertical rocks with Marlin's 4.7 Toybox in stupid low breaks my drivers mount just about every trip. I'm looking into a more permanent solution.

Look close you can see the :flamingo: chain...

P6180092.JPG


Huh intresting to know. I will add the chain the tools bags I have floating around the back of my rig during wheeling trips.
 
There is a good chance that only the driver side is busted. It torques up while the other side goes down. The drive side is easy to get to. Broke mine at Razorback Ramble 2 years ago and it did the same thing. Looking at the bolts wont tell if its busted. You need to block the tires and with the brake on try taking off in 1st and you should be able to see the engine lift off on the drive side
 
Sounds like you got it. For future reference, Cruiser Outfitters has them at a good price.
 
Reviving old thread. I have the need to replace an engine mount soon - what is the torque spec on the nuts?
 
Lmao, thanks for bumping this thread @bwesty . My fan has been hitting the shroud since I got it and at first I thought it was the split shroud the PO did, so I sourced a complete shroud from a member here only to find out the motor mount was toast...

...it's like I'm working backwards instead of forward.

Time to find some motor mounts
 
Lmao, thanks for bumping this thread @bwesty . My fan has been hitting the shroud since I got it and at first I thought it was the split shroud the PO did, so I sourced a complete shroud from a member here only to find out the motor mount was toast...

...it's like I'm working backwards instead of forward.

Time to find some motor mounts

I have the same problem with the fan tapping shroud but only in 4lo, 1st on some rough terrain.

I'd consider calling Cruiser Outfitters for the mounts. I just talked to them today and they have high quality aftermarket parts in stock at a reasonable price.
 
I just used the stock bottle jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan. Took me maybe 30 minutes.
On the jack placement on the very bottom part of the oil pan? I need to do both. so looks like I have to move ac compressor?
 
On the jack placement on the very bottom part of the oil pan? I need to do both. so looks like I have to move ac compressor?

Yes on jack placement. Use a short piece of 2x6 wood to spread the load.
 
Yes on jack placement. Use a short piece of 2x6 wood to spread the load.
When you replace them, both sides loose? Then when you started raising it, did you run into anything? Fan shroud? I think I will have to move my AC compressor for the passenger side.
 

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