Changing the Motor Mounts

[Godwin]

When you replace them, both sides loose? Then when you started raising it, did you run into anything? Fan shroud? I think I will have to move my AC compressor for the passenger side.

Yes, loosen both sides. I've had to do the driver side a couple of times, don't recall doing the passenger side except when I had the 2F out. You will encounter some minor interference with the fan shroud but you can lift the motor enough to swap out the motor mount without removing anything, at least on the driver side.

 

[LandoNick]

Yes, loosen both sides. I've had to do the driver side a couple of times, don't recall doing the passenger side except when I had the 2F out. You will encounter some minor interference with the fan shroud but you can lift the motor enough to swap out the motor mount without removing anything, at least on the driver side.

I was never able to find a torque spec to the motor mount nut. Do you know off hand?

 

[8660]

Trying to solve slipping 4L issue and found this thread. Front driver side motor mount makes a lot of sense, especially considering the clockwise lurching sensation when the clutch is released!

Quick question: are motor mounts considered an "OEM only" part or have folks had luck with aftermarket? Toyota wants about $100 for one front. Aftermarket lists from $10 - $50.

Thanks much.

 

[OSS]

Quick question: are motor mounts considered an "OEM only" part

You know the answer-
$90 at Toyotapartsdeal.com

 

[8660]

Reckon so. Thanks

 

[Malleus]

Reviving an old thread question, which was asked twice and never answered:

» What is the motor mount (isolator) nut installation torque? [it's 43–lb·ft for the 1FZ-FE]
and,
» What is the bolt torque for the mount–to–block? [it's 51–lb·ft for the 1FZ-FE, but it has 4 bolts and the mount is a foot farther back on the block]

 

[John McVicker]

Motor mounts will sooner or later fail. OEM or non OEM …it is the nature of this beast. From the drivers point of view the motor spins clockwise. Which means the d/s motor mount absorbs upward pulling pressure…and the rubber mount splits in half. When this happens your fan blade hits your shroud & could even hit your radiator.

The p/s motor mount receives downward pressure…and therefore rarely breaks. 2 & 2 is always 4. This is my solution. It 100% works…ALWAYS.

A) remove the broken motor mount
B) buy a new motor mount
C) cut off/remove both studs from the new mount
D) drill a hole completely thru both side of the new motor mount. (Forget the exact size but large enough for a long 10 maybe 12 mm bolt to pass thru.
E) buy a long 10 or 12 mm bolt. Forget exactly how long but as long as the 2 studs you cut off including the thickness of the motor mount. Somewhere between 4-6 inches
F) now using the long bolt, mount your modified motor mount (thru the hole you drilled) the same as you would mount the old one. You are DONE.

This modified motor mount will NEVER split apart. I’ve done this modification on both my 40 & my 60 at least 7-8 years ago, maybe longer. They both get wheeled hard. Very hard.

The downside is the modified mount does not have as much ‘give’ & therefore your ride is now bit rougher/harder. But really??
Well worth it…if you wheel. This mod cost the price of a new motor mount and one bolt & hardware. I ‘think’ I got this idea from Dave Gore. Mud name @lcwizard .

 

[bwesty]

Motor mounts will sooner or later fail. OEM or non OEM …it is the nature of this beast. From the drivers point of view the motor spins clockwise. Which means the d/s motor mount absorbs upward pulling pressure…and the rubber mount splits in half. When this happens your fan blade hits your shroud & could even hit your radiator.

The p/s motor mount receives downward pressure…and therefore rarely breaks. 2 & 2 is always 4. This is my solution. It 100% works…ALWAYS.

A) remove the broken motor mount
B) buy a new motor mount
C) cut off/remove both studs from the new mount
D) drill a hole completely thru both side of the new motor mount. (Forget the exact size but large enough for a long 10 maybe 12 mm bolt to pass thru.
E) buy a long 10 or 12 mm bolt. Forget exactly how long but as long as the 2 studs you cut off including the thickness of the motor mount. Somewhere between 4-6 inches
F) now using the long bolt, mount your modified motor mount (thru the hole you drilled) the same as you would mount the old one. You are DONE.

This modified motor mount will NEVER split apart. I’ve done this modification on both my 40 & my 60 at least 7-8 years ago, maybe longer. They both get wheeled hard. Very hard.

The downside is the modified mount does not have as much ‘give’ & therefore your ride is now bit rougher/harder. But really??
Well worth it…if you wheel. This mod cost the price of a new motor mount and one bolt & hardware. I ‘think’ I got this idea from Dave Gore. Mud name @lcwizard .

I second this solution and upgrade. I've broken two driver side mounts, both in the field. Fan hits shroud, all kinds of bad noises.

If the vehicle is used off road, particularly using 4lo it's just a matter of time when it will fail and it will fail. Lower gears, H55, etc all likely to increase probability of failure sooner too.

@John McVicker had provided the solution and from experience it works great.

Simple and effective method to ensure a solid mount that won't separate. It does induce some additional vibration through the vehicle, I think I only really noticed it though in 4lo and some higher RPMs but it's not bad.

 

[Malleus]

Reviving an old thread question, which was asked twice and never answered:

» What is the motor mount (isolator) nut installation torque? [it's 43–lb·ft for the 1FZ-FE]
and,
» What is the bolt torque for the mount–to–block? [it's 51–lb·ft for the 1FZ-FE, but it has 4 bolts and the mount is a foot farther back on the block]

Why is this hidden?

 

[Malleus]

Reviving an old thread question, which was asked twice and never answered:

» What is the motor mount (isolator) nut installation torque? [it's 43–lb·ft for the 1FZ-FE]
and,
» What is the bolt torque for the mount–to–block? [it's 51–lb·ft for the 1FZ-FE, but it has 4 bolts and the mount is a foot farther back on the block]

@cruisermatt any idea what the numbers are really supposed to be?

You're batting a thousand today, keep it up.